GEORGE BASS DRIVE

Explore this fantastic coastal loop between Batemans Bay and Moruya

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY TRINA MORRIS, ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAY MORRIS

George Bass was an intrepid early explorer who surveyed Australia’s southeast coastlines in tall ships and tiny skiffs. He climbed mountain ranges on horseback to forge new paths into unknown territory. He had an insatiable interest in discovering new things and to experience the unexperienced: from unfamiliar ecology to unexplored geography. Sound familiar?

Had George Bass been of our generation, we would have called him a grey nomad! Had he been blessed with the same modes of transport that we currently enjoy, he’d have toured in a flashy RV! It is appropriate, therefore, that we take a leaf from the journals of this pioneering Australian adventurer and spend a little time exploring one of his namesakes – the greatest Eurobodalla driving route.

George Bass Drive is a fabulous road journey, winding its way down the Nature Coast region of southern NSW. The appeal of this area has many aspects: miles of golden beaches interrupted by craggy headlands covered in wild vegetation, and supporting a stunning array of native creatures. Yet the area is comparatively undeveloped… by Australian coastal standards, that is. In contrast to the never-ending urbanisation and towering metropolises found further north on the eastern seaboard, George Bass Drive is populated by pockets of humble hamlets and tidy towns.

The small communities between Batemans Bay and Moruya have maintained an endearing charm – in some cases reminiscent of times gone by – both in appearance and through their low-key atmosphere. Across the Eurobodalla region – or “land of many waters” in the language of the First Nation inhabitants – locals really know how to ‘do’ tourism, by focusing on great Aussie hospitality!

At only 35 kilometres in length, George Bass Drive is a comparatively short tourist drive. This means it is easily completed in a fraction of one day, although this is definitely not our recommendation! With so many little off-shoots to explore into remote coastal viewing points, cute villages to enjoy, places to visit, adventures to undertake, beaches to stroll and culinary delights to sample, George Bass Drive deserves a week of your time. It is best accomplished as a round trip, using the Princes Highway for the return journey to your base.

We undertook our exploration of George Bass Drive as a loop from Batemans Bay, but it can just as easily be completed from any of the towns along its length. They are all geared up with fantastic accommodation options, from five star beachfront tourist resorts with cabins, powered sites and facilities, to more ambient, low-key parks offering serenity in more natural environments.

There are some great freedom camps outside the urban areas and primitive campgrounds in the local national parks, if you prefer to tour ‘off the grid’. Waldrons Swamp rest area was once a fabulous place to pull up, but it has recently been ‘upgraded’, reduced in size and cordoned off by bollards. Sadly, it now offers limited ambience. North Head campground near Moruya, and Congo Point Campground further south, provide excellent alternative freedom camping options.

On the other hand, RVers are spoilt for choice when it comes to caravan park options on the George Bass Drive loop. At the northern end there are ten in total, located in and around Batemans Bay, with another few parks midway, and more in Moruya in the south.

Our base was the pet-friendly Pleasurelea Tourist Park in Batehaven, just south of Batemans Bay. It has a secluded beach just across the road, where Rover and Fido can have a romp, and where the cook and the chauffeur can enjoy a romantic stroll. There were two other aspects of Pleasurelea that were standouts for us: their peaceful powered sites beside a natural millpond were delightful, and the poolside café – with scrumptious chef-prepared meals - is awesome!

Our time delving into the leisure interests of Batemans Bay, and exploring the surrounding national parks, kept us busy for several days. The Clyde River cruise aboard the Escapade is a lovely outing and another day is easily ‘lost’ in the peaceful surrounds of the Batemans Bay Botanical Gardens. The Old Courthouse Museum displays are excellent, as are the exhibits at the Oliver Tree Art Gallery. We shucked succulent local oysters and, as we strolled the town’s promenade, fishers landed decent catches literally at our feet!

Trails in local forest reserves offer beautiful natural experiences, especially those in Murramarang National Park and Cullendulla Creek Nature Reserve. A real standout is the easy 2.5km Oaky Beach track, which epitomises why this part of the NSW coastline is called The Nature Coast. This magnificent short walk leads to a spectacular coastal viewpoint through temperate rainforest, stands of spotted gums, and gardens of lilli pilli shrubs bursting with edible pink berries. The sighting of dolphins and whales is a distinct possibility as you relax on the rocks, enjoying the solitude.

George Bass Drive begins south of Batemans Bay, off Beach Road in Catalina. We recommend you avoid the first turnoff onto George Bass Drive, however, and stay on Beach Road through the populated coastal strip of Catalina, Batehaven, Sunshine Bay, Denhams Beach and Surf Beach. There are numerous beautiful seaside panoramas, parks, beaches, lookouts and fishing spots along this 5km strip. The first leg of the George Bass Drive forgoes these treats by plunging through tall coastal forest in the hills above the seaside cottages and villas.

Sheltered in the protected Clyde River estuary, the beaches of the Batemans Bay area are particularly gentle, offering very relaxed family (or senior) paddling. There are pet friendly options, too, such as Wimbie Beach and Sunshine Bay, if you want to give your pooch some playtime. Many small offshore islands create picturesque scenery, so keep your camera handy.

Beach Road meets George Bass Drive again south of Sunshine Bay, where the urban ‘sprawl’ meets the forest. A series of sweeping curves amongst the tall eucalypts encapsulate the coastal forest environment and the drive provides brief glimpses of the ocean. Within a short time, the lovely seaside community of Lilli Pilli appears. At low tide, be sure to take a walk from the northern end of Lilli Pilli beach around the prominent east-reaching headland, to see a remarkable series of jagged rock ledges along the shoreline, all the way around the spur.

The drive continues south over rolypoly hills, offering fine coastal vistas. The view from the final drop down into Malua Bay is particularly pretty, and the beach here is gorgeous – one of our favourite places along the drive. The broad grassy approaches to the foreshore’s low sand dunes were carpeted in daisies during our spring visit, and the little headland at the southern end of the bay contrasts beautifully with the open beachfront common. The parkland has picnic shelters, and there are several eateries close by, so it’s a great place to take a break.

We met three RVers in Malua Bay, enjoying their morning tea and a wellearned rest from their travels. They were touring south together in a mini convoy of caravans and motorhomes, and decided Malua Bay looked too blissful to pass by. We all agreed, as we munched on Jean’s home-baked cookies, that the George Bass Drive is a superb alternative to the faster – but less inspiring – Princes Highway, located just a few kilometres to the west.

South of Malua Bay, George Bass Drive wanders inland a little, looping through thick eucalypt bushland of Mogo State Forest. Within a few kilometres, it sweeps back towards the coast again and arrives at another of our favourite places on the drive: Rosedale. Take a quick detour down Rosedale Drive (just after you cross Saltwater Creek) and enjoy exploring the superb recreational beach.

Rosedale is a tiny community that thrives on a double passion: a strong focus on welcoming summer tourists, and a fervor to keep their beach and the surrounding environment in pristine condition. They have much to treasure. Residents enjoy picturesque scenery right on their doorstep: a peaceful bay of blue water, with Jimmies Island standing prominently offshore, providing magnificent protection from southerly blows. Impressive rock formations rest broodingly in places along the beach, half buried in the golden sand. The bedrock rises up to form rugged headlands of upstanding jagged stone.

The northern end of the bay, where Saltwater Creek flows from a lagoon into the ocean, is a particularly good place to romp with Rover. When rainfall is low, insufficient flows create a buildup of sediment, and the creek becomes stymied by a sandbar plug. The resulting lagoon provides a wetland haven for snakes, frogs, and a fabulous array of birdlife. Keep an eye out for the old 1930s boatshed near here – it is the pride and joy of local boat enthusiasts, who keep the old relic in great shape.

For another spectacular coastal treat, head a little further south along George Bass Drive and turn left onto Burri Point Road and left onto Beach Parade, which will deliver you to a lovely protected beach at Guerilla Bay. This is best done without a caravan in tow, because the parking area at the end of Beach Parade is pretty tight. Leave your rig at nearby Barlings Beach Holiday Park, and take a trip to gorgeous Guerilla Bay and Burrewarra Point for the day.

Guerilla Bay is just amazing! A circular cradle of massive, serrated rock formations tilt upwards from the ocean, in a frozen, primal performance of some long-ago upheaval. The beach has a rocky spur-line that protrudes into the bay… distinctly replicating the imprint of a gigantic pair of buttocks! The rock face that lies across the end of this point provides perfect protection from the forces of the ocean, so it’s a wonderful beach for gentle bathing and child-play. The entire bay is further protected from the south by the extensive easterly projection of Burrewarra Point, preventing any significant swells from the south.

Barlings Beach Holiday Park is large and well-positioned for an exploration of George Bass Drive, being situated roughly half way along its length.

A short walk through the park – with no roads to cross – brings you to a sandy track lined with a fascinating variety of coastal vegetation. At the end of the track lies the stunning Pacific Ocean, with Barlings Island imitating an offshore tropical paradise.

Not far south lies the settlement of Tomakin which looks across the beautiful Tomaga River to the popular retirement and summer holiday destination of Mossy Point. Both villages have lovely headland lookout which are easily accessible by rigs under tow, as they both possess large turning circles. The vistas from these headland vantage points across this beautiful part of the Australian coastline are really special.

The journey through Broulee and along the longest beach of the George Bass Drive – Bengello Beach – is superb.