CIDERFEST AND THE SNOWIES

From the crisp Batlow apples to the amber hues of Tumut’s elm trees and the music Yarrangobilly caves - Fred takes you down the Alpine Way!

WORDS BY FRED WRIGHT, PHOTOGRAPHY BY CARAVAN AND MOTORHOME ON TOUR

Visualise a trip through the high country of NSW starting at Tumut about a four and a half hours drive south west of Sydney. You would continue through the Kosciuszko National Park along the Snowy Mountains Highway to Jindabyne and feel as if you’re on top of the world. If you’re looking for a trip to exceed your expectations, especially with the number of high country free camps, then this one’s for you!

I travelled through the Snowy Mountains region in late May just prior to the ski season and was impressed by its rugged alpine beauty and with the overwhelming welcome I experienced everywhere I went. It was soon off to Batlow, about 32kms from Tumut, renowned for the quality of its apples and cold season fruits. The ‘Bush Telegraph’ had told me about a cider festival in Batlow known as ‘CiderFest’. So I pointed the Isuzu MU-X towards Batlow determined to capture the excitement and colour I knew I would find everywhere.

This CiderFest, the fourth of its kind, represented community spirit at its very best and showed just what people power can do. The main street was blocked off to accommodate all the stalls with locals making just about everything and of course, cider! Make no mistake – this is a festival for everyone and families, in particular, loved it. The dignitaries who opened the festival were introduced by MCs dressed as town criers and there was even an information booth in the shape of a big red apple. Young girls danced gaily through the crowds, encouraging people to sing along to the cider song.

CiderFest is the brainchild of Harald Tietze, whose Bavarian roots are evident in the wooden carvings inside his street-side café with the Bavarian flag fluttering atop the shop. His passion, combined with considerable support from other volunteers, makes possible the festival that brings so much joy to 7,000+ visitors. Batlow Caravan Park is a short walk from CiderFest and there is even an overflow or ‘tent city’ nearby to accommodate the thousands who flock here at this time.

Harald offered to be our guild for some scenic shots over Batlow from the lookout, before continuing on to a delightful free camp in Bago State Forest. We also stopped off at Mouat’s Farm off Batlow Road, where you can buy delicious apples, homemade jams, and fresh local eggs and you can even pick apples from the trees if you wish. One of my loves is Scottish Highland cattle and we found large numbers of them at Gilmore Braes Heritage Beef farm, not far from Batlow. These gentle giants were keen to say hello and apparently liked the Isuzu MU-X too, since they licked it all over!

You can go on half day or full day guided trips around the town in a huge Unimog machine and even end with a fine dining experience but make sure you book ahead. On the return journey from Tumut we stopped in Adelong, an old gold mining town that once saw 3000 odd prospectors chasing the allure of gold. There are heritage buildings, a caravan park and an information centre and museum ‘Adelong Alive’ where you’ll pick up local information and see a large model of the gold diggings in the early days.

We made Bonnie B’s Shaker Shed in Tumut our next stop and were impressed by the three thousand salt and pepper shakers on display. Bonnie has devoted countless hours to this collection, with shakers hailing from around the world. I couldn’t get over the creativity of the people who designed and made these pieces that are sure to have you captivated. Items are displayed in themed sections with shakers that resembling everything from animals, people, events and historical moments. Drop in and ask Bonnie about this oneof- a-kind collection.

Col, Bonnie’s husband, happily gave us a history lesson on Tumut. Its name comes from the aboriginal word for ‘a quiet resting place beside the river’ and was discovered by the explorers Hume and Hovell in 1824. And Tumut is, of course, in the centre of a beautiful valley with nearby lakes and the power stations of the famous Snowy Mountains Scheme. Col took us on one of his favourite walks beside the Tumut River lined with majestic towering elm trees, a perfect place for lunch or picnics and somewhere I’d recommend you visit.

Next on Col’s list was the Tumut Museum. There’s a small entry fee but what’s inside is definitely worth exploring. I couldn’t wait to see the Miles Franklin collection dedicated to the life of one of Australia’s most famous female authors. Her book ‘My Brilliant Career’, later to become a movie, is on display and passionate volunteers who work are keen to tell you how she also travelled to America to take part in the Suffragette movement. Here was a woman who was determined, highly talented and is a role model to this day. Out back there’s a collection of early machinery which includes a beautifully restored 1917 Columbus 6 horsepower portable engine, Tumut’s first petrol engine and one of only three remaining in the world.

Also in Tumut we dropped into the Tumut River Brewing Company and spoke to Tim, who is one of the owners. This is the smallest microbrewery in the Southern Hemisphere and it’s here you can sample their delicious range of brews. They have large bottles, big enough to take the volume of a six pack and just right for a big happy hour. Col also took us to the Tumut rest area some 10km south on the Blowering Dam access road. It’s for self-contained vehicles, can take big rigs, is dog friendly and you can stay for up to 48 hours. It got my vote for the large grassy areas and big trees right beside the river.

Col was a great ambassador for Tumut and a fellow vanner, but now it was time to head into Kosciuszko National Park and the Snowies. On your way you’ll pass by the Blowering Dam where you might remember that Ken Warby, in his jet-powered boat made in his own backyard, broke the world water speed record. Before you reach Talbingo don’t overlook the beautiful free camps found at The Pines and Yachting Point.

Yarrangobilly Caves were on our list and I’d recommend you don’t miss them. Larger vans and fifth wheelers need to be driven with care on the road down to these caves and remember it’s a one way gravel road so take care on some of the bends. There’s a beaut Ranger Station here with helpful, pleasant staff to answer all your questions and even a gift shop. Time for us is always limited but we had a guide to show us the South Glory Cave, which the Europeans first explored in 1834. However I was keen to see Jillabenan Cave – the smallest and perhaps oldest cave with its picture perfect streams, shawls, stalactites and a most beautiful pool. This cave is easily accessible to all and even has wheelchair access. Don’t miss the thermal pool either!

Before you reach the caves keep a lookout on the left for a wonderful free camp just off the highway called Yarrangobilly Village with its flowing river and old cottage. There’s tons of space for big rigs and toilets. The free camps in the Kosciuszko National Park are in plentiful supply and, in my opinion, are examples of the best high country camps in Oz. Back on the road we were off on a diversion to Cabramurra Township, the highest in Australia at 1488m above sea level. There’s an information centre and store where you can pick up basic provisions, fishing gear and a hot coffee or tea. There’s also an adjacent bistro but please note there’s no provision for camping around here as this is basically where all the Snowy workers live. Almost at the end of our journey we stopped in Cooma at the Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre. Here you can spend time exploring the interactive displays and learning where multiculturalism began and how proud we should be of the acclaimed Snowy Mountains Hydro Electric Scheme and the huge benefits it supplies with clean energy.

Jindabyne was to be our final stop on the banks of Lake Jindabyne. There’s a shopping centre, banks, cafes, information centre and lovely lunch stops beside the shimmering waters of the lake. Many people love to fish for trout here as well but we headed to nearby Crackenback and the Wild Brumby Schnapps distillery. Sampling schnapps here is free and they’re open every day throughout the year. It’s somewhere to put on your list and if you’re doing a lot of tasting make sure you’ve got a co-pilot to take on driving duties.

Please take your time on this trip and be mindful of the weather conditions in winter. It’s not a long drive but get the best out of it by stopping at some of the many beautiful, well-maintained free camps along the way. The alpine scenery is awe-inspiring and you’ll want to make repeat visits, as we do. I’ll put this trip near the top of my list not only because there’s nowhere else in Oz quite like it, but due to the country hospitality I found everywhere I went.