EXPLORING THE HERITAGE HILLS

The route from Clare Valley to Quorn is a stunning exploration of South Australia’s best wineries, museums and eateries

WORDS BY FRED WRIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY BY CARAVAN AND MOTORHOME

South Australia is an absolute mecca for RV friendly towns and scenic routes, but it was my drive from Clare Valley to Quorn that truly took my breath away and cemented it as one of the best. The Clare Valley is a pleasant two hour drive north of Adelaide and renowned for being the riesling capital of Australia. One of the greatest things about this gorgeous area is many travellers visit solely for wine or brewery tours, but stay much longer once they discover the huge variety of activities and attractions available. From food and wine tastings to renowned railways, this was a trip packed with wonder and excitement. What added to this was the incredible hospitality shown by each and every town we visited, we couldn’t believe how friendly and knowledgeable the locals were and we loved listening to their stories and tips. This is a truly charming region and one that should absolutely make its way onto every traveller’s bucket list.

CRUISING INTO CLARE

Lush green plains spread either side of us as we made our way into the fantastic township of Clare. We decided to make our base at the Discovery Parks Caravan Park in Clare as it was close to almost all the major attractions in the area. Our first stop was the Clare Valley Wine, Food and Tourism Centre, which was an absolutely perfect start to our trip and one of the best of its kind. There’s also a fantastic array of local art and produce including some of the region’s most outstanding wines. Our biggest tip is to check it out on a Friday night for amazing wine and food samplings which will leave your taste-buds tingling. This was a great introduction to the Clare Valley and really allowed us to get our bearings and plan what we wanted to see and do. From here, it was onto the ever-interesting heritage trail, which took us through a world of historical wonders.

CLARE’S HERITAGE TRAILS

The Passport Heritage Trails sweep you through some of South Australia’s most historical and stunning landscapes, offering informative signs, audio posts and displays along the way. There is a small charge to get your pass for the trail, but it unlocks eight incredible sites that you’re allowed to visit the entire time you’re in town. Bungaree Station, established in 1841, was our first stop and it really made us sit up and pay attention. This site depicted South Australia’s pastoral history and even informed us of where the earliest grape vines came from, which was really fascinating.

Still on the Heritage Trail we headed for Martindale Hall and Mintaro, a village frozen in time. Today, many buildings at Mintaro are well preserved in the form of bed and breakfasts, but you can easily stroll around the village and enjoy what locals say is one of the most significant stops. In fact, they call Mintaro the ‘Heart of the Clare Valley’, as the entire area is just soaked in rich history. Martindale Hall, built in 1879/80 for Edmund Bowman Jr was constructed from locally quarried sandstone and built in true Georgian style, with 32 rooms, a cellar and breathtaking domed ceilings.

BREWERIES TO BARBED WIRE

On your way from the History Trails back to Clare, you must stop in and taste some of Polish Hill Rivers finest at the Pikes Wines, Brewery and Art Gallery. The grounds are superbly landscaped and perfect for a leisurely outdoor lunch with a cheese platter and glass of their wine or beer. Take time to visit both the winery and brewery and learn Pike’s history, particularly of the difference between brewing beers now compared to their earlier days. We thoroughly enjoyed our delicious and informative experience here and know other RVers will too.

Wine lovers everywhere will no doubt recognise the Knappstein name. This fantastic winery is located in a historic building just off the main street of Clare and boasts some of Australia’s best red wines. Inside you’ll find an incredible range of premium wines and even get to see their micro-brewery in action! RVers can park their van out back and wander in to sample Knappsteins wines for free, which makes for a wonderful and relaxing evening. I was also told that tours were available for those wanting to get the full experience.

The Barbed Wire Pub is another great stop for vanners wanting fantastic hospitality in a unique setting. This exceptional pub is just 30 minutes away from Clare and is home to over 500 types of barbed wire, which have all been expertly displayed on the walls. Geoff, the owner, takes great pride in his unique set-up and is always up for a chat about his pub, or the area – both of which he has some incredible knowledge on. RVers who visit the pub will also get to enjoy top-notch hospitality and delicious meals, as well as a fantastic free camp out the back for all pubs patrons. The free camp is wonderfully spacious and completely free to use, with hot showers, toilets and power incurring a small fee. From here, it was an easy trip north to discover everything that the RV friendly town of Port Pirie has to offer.

PORT PIRIE

Port Pirie is known as the ‘City of RV Friendly People’, and after discovering all the amazing attractions and helpful locals, I’m very much inclined to agree. The Port Pirie Regional Tourism and Arts Centre in the heart of the Cultural Precinct was a treasure trove of information. It was once the railway station, but today is an impressive modern building designed in the shape of a ship, as a tribute to their maritime history.

Nyrstar’s Port Pirie smelters is really fascinating, with history told through photos and displays in the Arts Centre. You can trace your way from the first blast furnace in 1889 until today, which makes you marvel at how far we’ve come. There’s also a $500 million dollar redevelopment project meant for this area, which will well and truly warrant a visit when it’s finished. The Port Pirie RSL Sub Branch and Military Museum is a real treasure. It houses an Iroquois helicopter and tells stories of the sacrifice that local service personal made. It’s open daily and there’s free entry, which is a fantastic perk for travellers. Another great attraction is the National Trust Museum, which is home to rail, shipping and smelting history. There’s also a former Customs House and old police station from 1882, plus an old orchard room that will occupy you for hours. By far, the most unique and interesting museum we visited was just south of Quorn. Here we came upon a toy museum at Wilmington filled with matchbox and other brand toys plus land rovers. Be sure to set aside a good couple of hours for this museum, as there’s a lot to see.

THROUGH TO QUORN

Quorn is an historic township nestled in the Flinders Ranges. It’s story dates back to the days of steam and the beautiful stone buildings, wide streets, emporium and many great hotels speak of times gone by. One of the most notable times this town endured was when legions of Aussie troops stopped over on their way to Darwin in WWII and received overwhelming hospitality and a short break. The incredible hospitality shown by the town in this time is commiserated by a bronze plaque near the railway station. If you can pull yourself away from the history, then check out one of the local bakeries, such as the absolutely fantastic Emily’s Bistro and enjoy homemade treats, a friendly smile and a delicious Quandong pie, which is a traditional treat.

Pichi Richi Railway is today one of the main reasons RVers come to Quorn, but it’s not the only one. RVers in the know can attest to the true beauty that awaits all travellers at the Warren Gorge Free Camp. Less than 20km from town, this campsite offers interesting rock formations and plenty of sites for big rigs and RVs to spread out. Early in the morning and towards dusk you might spot yellow footed rock wallabies drinking from pools of water here. Nature lovers can easily lose themselves, staring in wonder at everything Mother Nature has provided.

The Flinders Ranges Visitor Information Centre is located at the railway station and is perfect for maps, local information and to get your tickets on the Pichi Richi Railway. Caravanners absolutely must experience the wonder that the Pichi Richi Railway provides, as it’s a treasure for the region. Richard, who we met at the railway workshop, is one of the many volunteers who devotes his time to keeping Pichi Richi in tip top order so that visitors can come and create great memories. There are so many happy moments that have been captured on this train and I have no doubt that RVers visiting will make many more. The volunteers who ran the railway could not have done more to help us out while we explored, and judging by the happy people who went on the train trip, everyone else shared the same attitude. If you get the chance to take a ride on the quaint but splendid coffee pot steam train then take advantage as it’s quickly booked out – and for a good reason! As a finale to your train trip, drop into Emily’s Bistro for a roast meal and a smile from this wonderfully accommodating family. This bistro is living proof that it’s the people that make these towns so enjoyable.

Winding through picturesque towns and discovering incredible activities in Clare and Quorn was a truly enchanting experience. We had the chance to taste some of Australia’s best wines and discover history rich towns and attractions and I relished every moment. The trip from Clare to Quorn is relatively short, but this shows how attraction packed this drive is. The true icing on the cake was that locals went above and beyond by giving tips and sharing their knowledge. These stunning townships, with their welcoming hospitality and range of activities, are the exact reason that RVers get on the road and explore. Clare to Quorn is living proof that you don’t need to be a millionaire to enjoy a memory rich experience.