THE TOP END VS TASSIE
What’s really OZ’s premier destination?
WRITTEN BY JONATHAN PULLEN, PHOTOGRAPHY BY CARAVAN AND MOTORHOME ON TOUR
OUR MOST ICONIC REGIONS GO HEAD-TO-HEAD
In this special edition of Caravan and Motorhome on Tour we pit Australia’s two most iconic regions, Tassie and the Top End against one another in a tell-all showdown! We’ve teamed up our experts and challenged them to tell our readers why their region of choice is the best RV touring spot in Australia!
TEAM TOP END
LYALL BOOTH
One of Australia’s last true bush-men, Lyall is happiest when he’s beneath the rustling gums of the Top End – whether he’s boiling a billy, swapping yarns with locals or exploring gorges, valleys and ranges dating back to the dawn of time, you can rest assured this veteran outback explorer will have a smile on his face. Having spent decades exploring the north – there’s no better vanner to be preaching its brilliance than Lyall.
JANNE HARDY
You’d be hard-pressed to find a more seasoned traveller than Janne. Even after vanning and working on the road all across Australia, she remains a true child of her beloved Top End. There’s nothing she loves more than the tranquillity and soothing silence only a remote bush camp can offer!
TEAM TASSIE
FRED WRIGHT
With over 50 years of vanning experience under his belt, Fred jumps at every opportunity to spend weeks on end touring the Tassie coast, before exploring everything the inland has to offer. Calling Tassie an RVers paradise, there’s nothing down south Fred doesn’t love.
TRINA MORRIS
Having travelled the vast expanse of Australia becoming one of the country’s most experienced vanners, Trina still calls Tassie home. There are virtually no attractions she hasn’t visited and zero free camps she hasn’t camped at! Trina is the true voice of Tassie tourers.
FREE CAMPING
The best free camps go head to head
TEAM TASSIE
TRINA’S FAVOURITES
• SOUTH RIANA PIONEER PARK
This awesome pet-friendly camp ground has low fees, yet offers power and water, if desired. Its grassy parklands are the perfect base from which to explore the huge variety of scenic destinations of Tasmania’s stunning central north-west.
• FRANKLIN FREE CAMP
For a taste of ‘cosmopolitan’ Tasmania, Franklin’s low-fee, pet friendly camping provides an ideal base to explore Hobart and the very classy Huon Valley foodie scene.
FRED’S FAVOURITES
• COSY CORNER, BAY OF FIRES CONSERVATION PARK
My vote goes to Cosy Corner as well! You can stay for up to a month in a place Lonely Planet chose as one of its favourites in the world! Dogs allowed, toilets, big rigs, toilets – perfect.
• GREEN POINT CAMPGROUND, TAS NORTH COAST
Clean air and stunning ocean swells – BBQ, grassy sites, toilets, showers and is perfect for fishing as well as scenic photography.
• WINGS WILDLIFE PARK, GUNNS PLAINS
My favourite freedom camp – $6 pp a night for an unpowered site. Camp on the river and try trout fishing, or explore and find roos, Tassie devils, koalas, echidnas, quolls, bison, buffalo and more!
WHY TASSIE FREE CAMPING IS BETTER
Tasmania is a superb free camping destination because there is simply no better region to explore during the hot summer months! The weather is magic: warm days and balmy evenings, with minimal humidity, and sporadic rainfall which maintains a spectacularly green, ‘living’ environment. Also, Tasmania’s economy relies heavily on tourism, so the people of this region really focus on ensuring visitors feel welcome, and receive the best possible information and service.
FREE CAMP QUALITY
with Trina
The quality and variety of Tasmanian freedom camps is exceptionally good. Tassie freedom camping recently copped a flogging in travel forums, with ill-informed rhetoric over the “mass introduction” of low fees. In reality, very few Tassie camps had fees introduced, and the quality of services improved in those that did. Tassie offers beautiful rest areas with good facilities ensure comfortable stays. For those who prefer primitive camping, Tassie still has countless no-fee options in wonderful, wild locations.
WHAT MAKES IT UNIQUE
With Fred
Unspoilt and unique – that’s Tassie free camping. From the north coast with its variety of attractions close to Devonport, to the wild west coast (one of my favourite spots in Oz) and its raw natural splendour – no one can say there’s similar free camping anywhere else in Australia. There’s no substitute for camping at Bay of Fires, one of the world’s most beautiful coastlines. The sea spray and pure air caressing your face as you catch lobster, abalone or fish for a fresh ocean-side dinner – unbelievable.
TEAM TOP END
LYALL’S FAVOURITES
• JULIA CREEK FREE CAMP
Council owned and supported with an on-site caretaker. On a waterhole that’s regularly topped up from artesian water. Free loan bicycles to travel to town and substantial but inexpensive meals in town especially for campers.
• FOUNTAIN SPRINGS REST AREA
60km east of Mt Isa with bitumen areas, water, shed and tables. Parking place to leave the van and visit old mining ghost towns nearby.
• GREGORY DOWNS
A little-known wonder of this area. Crystal clear drinking quality water all year round (except for flood time), fishing, freshwater crocodiles, parking beside the watercourse, bitumen road.
JANNE’S FAVOURITES
• MATARANKA’S JALMURARK CAMPING GROUND
Just 18km east of the town on the mighty Roper River – $9 p/n large bush campsites, warm showers, drinking water, barra fishing, walking trails, croc spotting and close to the sights around Mataranka.
• MT MOLLOY’S RIFLE CREEK FREE CAMP
Beside a pretty creek with good toilets and water. Stroll across the bridge to the pub and little town – just 36 minutes from Mossman and the Daintree
• ROCKY CREEK WAR MEMORIAL FREE CAMP
In the middle of the Tablelands with spotless toilets, a huge grassy camp area and a beautiful memorial park is attached.
WHY TOP END FREE CAMPING IS BETTER
Free camping in the Top End really is one of the last opportunities to experience Aussie camping as it would have been thousands of years ago. – it’s the true off-grid camping experience. A sun-scorched earth, surrounds breaming with natural wildlife and flora – remnants of pre-historic Gondwana land still remain, you just need to look close enough. Tassie camping is nice, and might have its unique features but there’s no substitute for the tranquillity, other-worldly peace and serenity of the raw, beautiful and sometimes dangerous Top End.
WHAT MAKES IT UNIQUE
With Lyall
The free camps in this area are unique in that harshness and variability of the environments provide varied experiences for those searching for something different from mowed lawns and picnic tables. In the dry season there can be dust and the excitement of watching the monsoons develop but if you’re travelling just after the wet, the country can be transformed to spectacular green (and green IS spectacular if you live here permanently) overnight. The waterholes are full and the rivers will be running… and there will be literally thousands of native birds. Truly a land of spectacular contrasts.
FREE CAMP QUALITY
with JANNE
Noone goes to the Top End for grassy sites – this is real remote free camping. Vanners go Top End to appreciate its sheer vastness and raw primitive beauty – not for prim and polished amenities. Being that you can free camp virtually anywhere, the quality is what you make it – even in the most arid places. The Top End is the last bastion of true free camping in Australia – where else can you pull up wherever you please beside a river, cast in a line, catch dinner, and relax and enjoy as you watch the sun disappear behind the horizon?
ATTRACTIONS ON OFFER
Experiences you can’t afford to miss
TEAM TASSIE
FRED’S TOP TRIO
• LAUNCESTION & TAMAR VALLEY:
Experience rich colonial history, visit Cataract Gorge, Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery and enjoy a cold beverage at Boag’s brewery!
• DERWENT BRIDGE, CENTRAL HIGHLANDS:
One of my all-time favourite attractions in Oz is the “Wall in the Wilderness” a 50m long wood carving telling the history of the Central highlands region.
• DEVONPORT:
I find Devonport is often underrated – but I love it. Visit the the Don River Railway, Bass Strait Maritime Museum and shop around and appreciate the local craft at Spreyton Cider Co.!
5 UNFORGETTABLE TASSIE TREATS
With Trina
1. Enjoy an outstanding world heritage cruise from Strahan, up the Gordon River and through Macquarie Harbour, to experience unique convict history and natural wonders
2. Take a drive to the summit of Mount Wellington and look across one of the most beautiful estuarine harbours in the world
3. Walk the beautiful trail to Wineglass Bay Lookout on the magnificent Freycinet Peninsula
4. Hobart’s MONA has to be seen to be believed, and the cities’ legendary Salamanca Markets are on every Saturday, rain, hail or shine
5. Visit Port Arthur Historic Site on the island’s south eastern tip for an eerie insight into the lives of our convict ancestors
WHAT ONLY TASSIE CAN OFFER
with Fred
Tassie offers vanners and motorhome owners what no other region can offer in terms of its varied canvas of free campsites, natural and man-made attractions, mouth-watering selections of local produce and the overwhelming sense that you’re somewhere unlike anywhere else , not just in Australia, but the world. Vanning folk exchange friendly waves, smiles and gestures in quiet recognition that you both know you’re touring something truly special.
WHY VANNERS CHOOSE TASSIE
with Trina
Tasmania’s Bass Strait ferry service is quite comparable in cost to Top End fuel consumption and way ahead in time and effort. Also, the Top End can only be explored during the dry season, whereas there are no deadlines attached to touring Tassie. Sure there’s great Barra fishing in the tropics, but who doesn’t love eating Tassie trout fresh from a mountain river?
TEAM TOP END
JANNE’S TOP PICKS
• MT MOLLOY:
You can visit the Daintree and Mossman and Port Douglas. The fresh food is wonderful. Visit coffee and fruit plantations.
• MATARANKA’S ELSEY REST AREA:
Visit Elsey Homestead, Bitter and Mataranka Springs, the Roper River falls and fish for Barramundi.
3 ATTRACTIONS YOU NEED TO SEE
With Lyall
• GREGORY RIVER/LAWN HILL NATIONAL PARK
Bitumen and quality gravel road access to two unique watercourses and gorges which have been home to Aboriginal Australians for thousands of years. Spectacular!
• Riversleigh Fossil Deposits A real eye-opener as to the wildlife that live around here millions of years ago and how the climate and landscape have changed .
• KAKADU NATIONAL PARK
Arguably, the most iconic National Park in Australia – there’s no substitute for its swimming holes, cascading waterfalls and plentiful wildlife.
WHAT ONLY THE TOP END CAN OFFER YOU
With Lyall
The beauty of the Top End is that it’s the land itself that offers the most – it doesn’t need promotions, lights, markets or events to draw people to it. Quite simply, it is the freedom to camp wherever you please and live off the land – whether that be fresh artesian drinking water, or fresh fish from its streams! There are no fancy shows or gimmicks, but you wouldn’t trade a night under its starlit sky for all the shows in the world. It’s people are hard-working, genuine folk and always make you feel like an old friend returning home.
WHY VANNERS CHOOSE THE TOP END
With Janne
People flock to the warm Top End escaping southern winters. There are so many iconic places to see like the 3.2 million litres of 32 degree crystal-clear water of Bitter Springs near Mataranka, or the ancient Chilligoe Caves near Cairns. It’s the climate, lifestyle and abundance of things to do that brings people north to the top end!
BEST INLAND AND COASTAL ROUTES
TEAM TASSIE
WHY YOU’LL LOVE INLAND TASSIE
The Midland Highway is an unforgettable history trail, taking visitors a step back in time to our convict and colonial past. Tassie townsfolk cherish their beautiful architectural treasures.
HERITAGE HIGHWAY: AN RVER’S PARADISE
With Trina
Tasmania’s Midland Highway is referred to as the ‘Heritage Highway’, since it features the historical heart of Tasmania – an extremely significant part of Australian colonial history. A succession of magnificent heritage towns can be visited, each proudly displaying beautifully restored buildings, convict-built bridges, and early colonial enterprises, such as old mills, still in action.
BAY OF FIRES TO BUCKLAND
With Fred
Every vanner will love Tassie’s east coast run. See the other-worldly orange rocks of Binnalong Bay and explore St Helens! The state’s game fishing capital. One of my favourite spots is the Bay of Fires Conservation Area. Travel south and make your way to the unforgettable Freycinet Peninsula – you’ll adore Swansea’s 1820s heritage.
WHY YOU’LL LOVE COASTAL TASSIE
You’d be hard-pressed to find a more beautiful coastal stretch – there’s never any crowds and the region offers amazing food, heritage trails, walks, views and campsites.
TEAM TOP END
MAREEBA TO THE CORAL SEA
With Janne
Start from Mt Molloy, it’s 30 minutes to Mossman and the Daintree beaches and Port Douglas is nearby. These places are full of history. The Heritage Listed Wet Tropics, National Parks and Mossman Gorge are a must see and the loop drive to Cairns and back up the range is stunner.
OZ’S ICONIC OUTBACK TRAIL:
With Lyall
Drive to Elsey Homestead at Mataranka Springs, used in the film “We of the Never Never.” Swim in these or nearby Bitter Springs and fish for Barramundi! Visit Cherubin and spot salt water crocs at your camp site. There’s a great walk to Roper Falls too.
WHY YOU’LL LOVE CRUISING THE COAST
The mix of scenery and the chance to explore an unspoiled land on this route make it unique. There’s only one town – it’s really remote!
WHY YOU’LL LOVE HEADING INLAND
The harshness and variety of landscapes and experiences. Spectacular sunsets, scenery and waterholes, a sky that can be filled with thousands of birds. Friendly, helpful people.
EVENTS & FESTIVALS
Who has the best touring calendar?
TEAM TASSIE
TRINA TOP PICKS
• SteamFest Tasmania – bringing Tasmania’s pioneering yesteryear to life, 12 – 14 March www.steamfesttasmania.org.au
• Cygnet Folk Festival – an unforgettable celebration of world music, dance and song, 8 – 10 Jan, www.cygnetfolkfestival.
• Festivale – Launceston’s famous carnival of food, wine, beer, arts and entertainment, Feb 12 – 14, www.festivale.com.au
• Tasmanian Craft Fair, Deloraine – Oct 30 to Nov 2 www.tascraftfair.com.au
FRED TOP PICKS
• Wooden Boat Festival – a celebration of the largest wooden boat collection in the southern hemisphere 10-13 February 2017 www.australianwoodenboatfestival.com.au
• Agfest – annual gathering promoting Tassie’s vibrant agricultural industry 5 – 7 May www.agfest.com.au
• Royal Hobart Show – Massive event promoting rural Tassie 21 – 25 October www.hobartshow.com.au
• Taste the Harvest – A delicious celebration of Devonport’s produce 13 March www.tastetheharvest.org.au
TASTE OF TASMANIA, HOBART
28 DEC – 3 JAN
The legendary Taste of Tasmania food and wine festival is held annually on Hobart’s waterfront, from Dec 28 to Jan 3. This week-long festival showcases the very best of Tasmania’s fresh grown and locally produced foods and beverages, with live music and world class buskers providing hilarious entertainment. www.tasteoftasmania.com.au
STEAMFEST, MAITLAND
9 – 10 APR
One of my favourite annual events in Australia, I never tire of experiencing historic steam-powered cars, trains and other curious contraptions dotting central Maitland! If Australia’s biggest congregation of steam-powered locomotives wasn’t enough, there’s a huge array of market stalls, scrumptious food and themed entertainment – brilliant stuff. www.steamfest.com.au
TEAM TOP END
LYALL TOP PICKS
• Gregory Canoe Races Held early May each year www.northwestcanoeclub.org.au
• Garma Festival 31 July, www.garma.com.au
• Darwin Festival 6 – 23 August, www.darwinfestival.com.au
• Camooweal Drovers’ Camp Festival 21 – 23 August 2015, www.droverscamp.com.au
JANNE TOP PICKS
• Mataranka Never Never Festival, 08 – 15 May
• Mareeba Rodeo 16 – 17 July www.mareebarodeo.com.au
• Port Douglas’ Carnivale held in May. Ph: 1300 780 806.
• Atherton Maize Festival held in May. www.maizefestival.org.au
BARUNGA FESTIVAL, BARUNGA
5 – 7 JUNE
For a total outback occasion the Barunga Festival on the Aboriginal Barunga Community land about 40 k north east of Mataranka is great. It’s held on the Queen’s Birthday weekend. You can even camp there. It showcases a great Aboriginal community with markets, art, music and sport. A must-see. www.barungafestival.com.au
MT ISA RODEO, MT ISA
7 – 9 AUG
The Isa Rodeo. People come from all over the world for this unique event which was first held in 1959. It’s on 7 – 9 August 2015. “It’s where the romance of the Australian outback meets the grit of a mining town… and man meets beast.” www.isarodeo.com.au
RV FRIENDLY TOWNS
Don’t miss these!
TEAM TASSIE
FRED’S FAVOURITES
• FRANKLIN: Close to Hobart and steeped in heritage and agricultural appeal – love it!
• GEORGE TOWN: The oldest settlement in Australia and right at the mouth of the Tamar River – food, wildlife, museums and more.
• CAMPBELL TOWN: I’ll never take the Midland Highway inland route without stopping here for supplies and a rest!
TASSIE: THE FRIENDLIEST STATE FOR VANNERS
With Trina
Tasmanians are famous for their friendly, welcoming service, and this is especially apparent throughout the hospitality industry. Superb RV-friendly towns include Oatlands and Campbell Town on the inland route, St Helens in the NE, and Stanley in the NW. All these centres provide fantastic free camps, dump points, great eateries, interesting attractions and that warm Tassie welcome.
TEAM TOP END
DON’T MISS THESE RV FRIENDLY STOPS!
With Lyall
• MT ISA: Where a shopping trip can turn into a social occasion. We’ve come back… 3 times.
• BOULIA: Green van park – friendly people here (Meet Loreen at the caravan park!) …And Min Min lights, of course. (I’ve seen 2).
• JULIA CREEK: Actively encourages caravanners to stop by and camp – excellent camping spot.
MY 3 FAVOURITES
With Janne
• MAREEBA: is reasonably priced for RVers and the people are very welcoming.
• MOSSMAN: The caravan park is a short drive from the Gorge and the National Park walks and beaches.
• MATARANKA: A great outback town where the red dust camp sites sit strangely with the millions of litres of spring water spewing out of Mataranka and Bitter Springs.
VALUE FOR MONEY
Getting the most out of your dollars
TEAM TOP END
HOW MUCH IT WILL COST
Fuel, food and van sites are slightly dearer than coastal. Admittedly, “stuff” costs more here than on the coast but everything has to be transported by truck. Prices are quite reasonable.
WEEKLY COSTING SNAPSHOT
LYALL COSTS
Park Accommodation (park stay every night): $224
Food: $150
Fuel: $250
Attractions: $60
TOTAL: $684
MY 3 BIGGEST EXPENSES
• Fuel
• Van and Vehicle repairs and servicing
• Food
JANNE COSTS
Park Accommodation (park stay every night): $255
Food: $250
Fuel: $230
Attractions: $40 – the best are free
TOTAL: $775
MY 3 BIGGEST EXPENSES
• Fuel
• Inland food is much dearer and in places only comes once a week
• Meals if you eat out
TEAM TASSIE
HOW MUCH IT WILL COST
The cost of getting your rig across Bass Strait is the biggest expense – factor in the incredible fuel savings though. Caravan parks are cheaper in Tassie, and the best attractions are free!
WEEKLY COSTING SNAPSHOT
TRINA COSTS
Park Accommodation (park stay every night): $200
Food: $150
Fuel: $250
Attractions: $50-100
TOTAL: $700
MY 3 BIGGEST EXPENSES
• Spirit of Tasmania ferry passage
• Caravan Park Fees
• Fuel
FRED COSTS
Park Accommodation (park stay every night): $210
Food: $300
Fuel: $250
Attractions: $80
TOTAL: $840
MY 3 BIGGEST EXPENSES
• Transport across the sea
• Food – I love the foodie trails
• Fuel
THE BEST PARK STAYS
TEAM TOP END
LYALL’S PICKS
NORMANTON TOURIST PARK
The ideal spot to explore the Carpenteria Shire – enjoy the surrounding salt pans and mangrove-fringed river systems.
Ph: (07) 4745 1121 W: www.normantontouristpark.com.au
ARGYLLA DISCOVERY, MT ISA
A large well managed park with a spect acular (for dry Mt Isa) expanse of green lawns and t all palm trees at the entrance.
Ph: (07) 4743 4733
BURKETOWN CARAVAN PARK
Morning glory clouds, fishing on the Albert and Nicholson Rivers and friendly locals – this one is very special.
Ph: (07) 4745 5118 W: www.burketowncaravanpark.net.au
JANNE’S PICKS
WONGA BEACH CARAVAN PARK, QLD
Lovely hosts – Bob and Joyce. Clean, spacious and happy hour from 5pm daily. Close to Daintree, Mossman and Port Douglas.
Ph: (07) 4098 7513 W: daintree.info/wongabeachcaravanpark.html
MAREEBA COUNTRY VAN PARK, QLD
Great for exploring the Atherton Tablelands with a lovely pool.
Ph: (07) 4092 5257
MATARANKA CABINS AND CAMPING, NT
Short walk to Bitter Springs and Mataranka town-centre – you can fish for Barra in the park
Ph: (08) 8975 4838 W: www.matarankacabins.com.au
TEAM TASSIE
FRED’S PICKS
PORT ARTHUR HOLIDAY PARK
Modern and special sit es – the perfect spring board for beautiful Port Arthur
Ph: (03) 6250 2340 W: www.portarthurhp.com.au
ABEL TASMAN CARAVAN PARK
6 Wright Street, East Devonport. Powered sites affordable, comfortable amenities and terrific hosts!
PH: (03) 6427 8794 W: www.abeltasmancaravanpark.com.au
MOLE CREEK CARAVAN PARK
Affordable, comfortable, lovely host and surrounded by beaut attractions.
Ph: (03) 63631150 W: www.molecreek.net.au
TRINA’S PICKS
ST HELEN’S HOLIDAY PARK, ST HELEN
Modern amenities, camp kitchen and barbecue facilities and pet friendly all year round – near Binalong Bay and Bay of Fires
Ph: 1300 559 745 W: www.big4.com.au
BARILLA HOLIDAY PARK, RICHMOND
Coal Valley wineries close by – the sites are generous, the staff are friendly and the park is pet friendly.
Ph: (03) 6248 5453 W: www.barilla.com.au
STRAHAN HOLIDAY PARK, STRAHAN
The perfect base from which to explore the World Heritage-listed Gordon River, or t o relax on Strahan’s lovely beaches.
Ph: (03) 6471 7442 W: www.strahanholidaypark.com.au
OVERALL WINNER: THE TOP END!
WRAPPING UP
Well there you have it, two of Australia’s most popular RVing destinations put head-to-head with no stone left unturned. Both teams have put their cases forward and presented the absolute best of two regions any vanner would jump on the opportunity to explore.
Ultimately, both regions are comparable in countless respects, but the same pursuit in both, whether that be fishing, eating our or free camping, will offer you two entirely different experiences.
As a traveller, you know what activities you enjoy and which style of camping you prefer, but it’s important not to pigeon-hole yourself to one particular style of travel – you might end up missing some of the best experiences this great country of ours has to offer. So if you’re a bush-camper, try the coastal route, or alternatively if you stick to coast, head inland and find that perfect river-front free-camp.
Both the Top End and Tassie offer some of the best free-camping, attractions and local company in Australia – so why not put them both on your bucket-list and then decide which you prefer!
