TAMAR TREATS

Fred finds the best local produce, free camps and historical artefacts within 50km of Launceston in the Tamar Valley

WORDS BY FRED WRIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRED WRIGHT AND JOHN HABERFIELD

If you’ve been following my travels for a while now, you’ll know that my two favourite things are value-for-money destinations, and good quality local produce. The Launceston and Tamar Valley region has this and more – you just can’t go to Tassie without exploring this quirky, exciting, and most of all, affordable region!

Launceston, Tasmania’s second biggest city, stands proudly on the banks of the Tamar River, Australia’s longest navigable river. The river valley itself acts as a magnet enticing travellers to explore and experience its many delights.

However, before that, taste the myriad attractions at Launceston with its Cornish sounding name and evergreen countryside. There’s an English feel about it albeit with an unmistakable Aussie flavour and flair.

The city is noted as having the most intact early cityscape in Australia, dating back to 1824. It’s also renowned in Tassie for its boutique shops, a grand mall, supermarkets and superb museums.

As befits a busy city, it’s advisable to unhitch your van and fire up the trusty G.P.S. so that you don’t miss any attractions.

If you want to visit the Farmer’s Markets in the heart of the city and other hot spots, it’s often the case that the early bird catches the worm, especially where parking is involved. After buying up some of the freshest paddock-to-plate produce you can imagine at the Farmer’s Markets (where each stall is manned by the grower) we headed for something completely different: Simon Richardson’s Harley Davidson business and museum close to Launceston.

We were keen to see this museum after discovering that it displayed not only Harleys but also Aussie, Russian and UK bikes – and we discovered that there is ample parking and a café with breakfasts and lunches at reasonable prices, too! Bonus!

The whole place, including the area where bike engines are stripped down and thousands of spare parts are kept, is as clean as a new pin: something we didn’t expect to see here.

You might be lucky and meet Simon, the owner, and learn the story of the museum from its humble beginnings to the present day. As they say, “Ride to live and live to ride!” You’ll find that the staff doesn’t just love bikes; they’re passionate about them. We were pleasantly surprised to discover that the complex is made from recycled timber, which demonstrates a true commitment to conservation.

Diagonally opposite the mall is the quadrant mall where we dropped into “Honey Tasmania” to explore the hundreds of honey products for sale. Many of you would already be aware of the health benefits of honey. Here’s a great opportunity to replenish your supplies or try some new products, like the alcoholic mead! Honey tastings are free; all products are from Tassie bees and the person at the counter owns the apiaries. What could be better?

“Clockwise” is but a short walk away and if you’re looking to have a watch or clock repaired or see a true artisan at work on clocks hundreds of years old, this “timely” place will enthral you. There are many handmade replica clocks straight from the store’s workshop – just one other feature that makes Clockwise so special.

Just down the road is the stunning Tram Museum. There’s a determined group of hard-working volunteers here who’ll show you their museum full of memorabilia such as black and white photos of early trams in Launceston. There’s even a tram rescued from a farmer’s paddock complete with pigeon droppings and seagulls (the stuffed variety) perched on its makeshift rusting roof.

Group tours can be arranged but don’t miss out on your ride aboard a beautifully restored vintage tram. I’m sure that if you ask politely, the driver will stop the tram en route so that you get precious once-in-a-lifetime photos.

Aim to spend a day here and at the adjacent Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery. Parking at the QVM was $3 for the whole day and that’s not bad when you’re virtually at the front door. Put on your walking shoes for this highly recommended museum because there’s plenty to see.

Inside you’ll discover the story of Launceston’s past with its trains, maritime tales, and even dinosaurs. What caught our attention was a caravan circa 1930 that even came with its own bath. We were fortunate to have an escorted tour with the historian here and left with heads full of information, not to mention imagery that will last a lifetime.

They’ve even installed a centre where you can try your luck at scientific research – and don’t miss the Planetarium. For a break, there’s a café for a cuppa or light refreshment while you recharge your batteries. Note this down as a must-see venue at Launceston!

Launceston repaid us in spades for the time spent there, but now we were keen to explore the beautiful Tamar River Valley to the north, so we made our way up the west coast of the river. It wasn’t long before Grindelwald came into sight and with it a Swiss Village. Golfers will be pleased to learn that there’s a public golf course here, or for those who are less talented there’s always putt putt golf – which certainly challenged me!

The village also boasts fabulous chocolates, clothing boutiques and a bakery with mouth-watering fare. The café is renowned for its decadent-but-irresistible ice cream and maple syrup pancakes.

Heading north once more we turned off before Exeter and checked out free camps by the river. We discovered that your RV must be self-contained and can stay only between 5PM and 9AM, but the views are picture-perfect.

Rowella was our next stop, the home of Lavender House Tasmania, the original maker of quality Tasmanian lavender products. This is considered to be one of Tasmania’s treasures, far from the crowds of the mainland – and in our opinion, that’s a fair assessment. They’ve been manufacturing quality aromatics since 1991 and there’s something here for both men and women.

Don’t overlook Holm Oak Winery, which is but one of the thirty wineries on the Tamar. It’s less than a kilometre away with its cellar door, wine tasting, beaut Tassie fish, cheeses and biscuits. Your lunch will be so much more enjoyable washed down with a fine wine or cider – and don’t forget to say hello to “Pinot”, the winery pig, who simply loves apples and snorts with appreciation if you come up with the goods.

Over the river there’s George Town, the heart of provincial Tamar, where European settlement and the history of Launceston began. Since no reliable water supply could be found here, this early capital eventually moved some fifty kilometres south along the Tamar. We owe a debt of gratitude to George Bass and Matthew Flinders who first circumnavigated Tasmania and proved it was separated from the mainland – hence the name Bass Strait. Flinders was a highly competent sailor and cartographer who trained under William Bligh. His maps were so accurate that the Australian Navy used them in WWII!

It was his significant book, ‘Voyage to Terra Australis”, that gave Australia its name. However, Flinders came to an unhappy end. Imprisoned as a spy when he stopped at Mauritius on his way to England, his ill treatment affected his health, and the treatment given back in England eventually caused his death. Sadly, he died the day after a hardbound copy of his famous book was published.

At school, history books taught me that Bass and Flinders circumnavigated Tasmania in a small boat called the Tom Thumb. It was actually a much larger ship called the Norfolk and today you can see a replica of this ship at the Bass and Flinders Museum.

Complete your exploration of George Town with a visit to both the Watch House and Low Head Pilot Station. You’ll be able to view a model village of George Town in the early 19th century, but a really unique display is the Departures and Arrivals Bicentennial project by artist Christine Henri, a memorial to the many babies who died in Tasmania’s female factories.

Another standout is the Low Head Pilot station Museum: a living history. Twelve rooms tell the fascinating story of the station and the pilots who, from 1807, guided ships navigating the dangerous mouth of the Tamar River with its treacherous Hebe Reef. From Launceston we went south to Hagley and at Hazelbrae Hazelnut Farm we saw a machine harvesting these wonderful nuts. Products here include chocolate covered hazel nuts and simply scrumptious hazelnut ice cream.

Our final stop was at Evandale and the Tasmanian Gourmet Sauce Company. Here you can taste, free of charge, more 30 of the finest sauces and preserves. While you’re there, wander through their renowned gardens and see Tasmania’s largest topiary nursery. Don’t miss this one!

When you travel to this most beautiful region of Northern Tasmania, they tell you to enjoy the journey – and you certainly will.