SOUTH WEST WILDERNESS

With impressive primeval forests and isolated bush camping, South West Tasmania is an experience you don’t want to miss

WORDS BY LORRAINE HOLLOWAY, PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN AND LORRAINE HOLLOWAY

Tasmania’s South West is a bit of an enigma to most travellers; it is a long way (in Tasmanian terms) from anywhere, with a road that just, well, finishes at the end, with nowhere to go.. With the holidays almost upon us, and the desire for somewhere quiet to stay, we decided this could be a great option. We had heard through the grape vine about a new low cost bush camp near Mt Field National Park; it sounded just what the doctor ordered. So, with that in mind, we set about exploring the Gordon River Road.

The Gordon River Road stretches from its intersection on the Lyell Highway near Rosegarland far into the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park, terminating abruptly at the mighty dam wall of the Gordon Dam around 110km later, after passing through villages of Busy Park, Westerway, National Park and Maydena.

We found our campsite – Left of Field – easily. It can’t be missed, it’s right beside Mt Field National Park! Located beside the Tyenna River, this grassy, shady and quiet camp spot is a relatively new site and still a work in progress. They also welcome pets!

Left of Field is exactly as its name describes, a wonderfully quirky place where you can do things like have a game of Crazy Golf – a new idea by Adrian Fogarty, the owner, where you play golf with a stick that is more like a croquet mallet and a large spongy ball. There are 18 holes, all ages can play, and you don’t have to be a golf fanatic. Once you’re finished playing games you can wander around his gardens and see his quirky sculptures, both natural and man-made. Adrian was a landscape gardener in a previous life, and is putting his heart and soul into this enterprise. We arrived a few days before Christmas and were the only campers there, however, closer to New Year, the sites began to fill. Adrian will make you welcome when you arrive, supply you with a fire pot and even light it for you each evening (fire bans permitting). A brand new toilet block has recently been completed and the next project is the camp kitchen.

Using Left of Field as our base, we started exploring the Gordon River Road.

WESTERWAY AND BUSHY PARK

Bushy Park, only a short 55km north of Hobart, claims to be pretty close to the edge of the world. Perhaps back in the early settlement days, this was the case. The village is the birthplace of Australian hops, dating back to 1867 when Ebenezer Shoobridge planted his first crop. His farmhouse still stands, as does the oast house, called The Text Kiln – where they dried and packed the hops for shipment. It is inscribed with his favourite passages from the bible.

Westerway, the closest village to Mt Field National Park produces tonnes of berries each year – raspberries, blackberries, strawberries and young berries. All are available from farm gates and roadside stalls. Westerway also has the last regular supply of fuel and groceries along this route.

Far from being the edge of the world, these settlements are now gateways to the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park.

NATIONAL PARK

The location of National Park is where a heritage tourist train from New Norfolk terminated back in the early part of this century. No longer operating, the station remains at the entrance to Mt Field National Park – where you will find ample camping. Close by is the National Park Hotel, built in the 1920s and just a short walk to both Mt Field National Park and Left of Field Camping areas. Mt Field National Park is the oldest in Tasmania. Russell Falls, the easiest feature to visit is situated near the entrance. A six kilometre circuit trail, taking in the Tall Trees walk, Russell, Horseshoe and Lady Barron Falls can easily be hiked in around two and a half, and will reward you with massive Swam Gums, both alive and dead, mossy fringed Man Ferns and beautiful waterfalls. The swamp gums are amongst some of the tallest trees in the world. 16km further along the winding gravel of Lake Dobson Road, brings you to a carpark, where you can “park and hike”. This carpark is the start of many of the longer walks (some up to nine hours return) or you can wander along the Pandani Grove Nature Walk, one of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks. This walk meanders around Lake Dobson, passing through groves of tall pandani and mysterious and ancient pencil pines. Other short walks along Lake Dobson Walk include the Mosaic Moors Walk, the Woodlands Walk, and a short boardwalk into the horizontal forest.

Mt Field National Park now forms part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area.

MAYDENA AND STYX RIVER

The pretty village of Maydena – a timber town – is the largest town in the Derwent Valley after leaving New Norfolk. That being said, it only has a population of around 225. The majority of the population work in forestry related industries. Based in Maydena is another relatively new tourism venture – Railtrack Riders. Opened for business in 2009, Railtrack Riders is an initiative by the Maydena Community Association, in an effort to develop a tourist enterprise, utilising the beauty of the South West Wilderness area and Tasmanian Forestry Heritage. The “riders” were designed and constructed by community members using recycled bicycle and car parts. The rolling stock is four-wheeled, lightweight rail cycle, powered by foot pedals travelling on narrow gauge railway. The human powered riders are great fun for all the family. Each buggy is pedal powered, however, coming up behind the “human train” is a quad that can push the train up hills, allowing you to rest your legs. Being pedal powered, you are able to travel at your own pace to experience the sights, sounds and smells of the rainforest. The trip we pedalled was from Maydena to Florentine, following the twists and turns of the Tyenna River. At Florentine, a beautiful 10 minute walk through a secret forest awaits you, or you can browse through the historic displays in the newly built information centre. Railtrack Riders also operate from National Park.

About three kilometres west of Maydena follow the signage to the Styx River Road, a good condition gravel road driving through the Maydena Range, following the Styx River into the Styx State Forest, where there are a couple of short walks. The first, in Big Tree Reserve, is an easy walk – partly wheel chair accessible – to one of nature’s giants, a 400 year old, 86m high swamp gum. You marvel at this tree, then a little further into the walk is another! Back at the road, you can then wander down to the Styx River. This easy walking track takes you through rainforest and eucalypts, gently down to the pretty tea coloured river, babbling over smooth rounded river rocks. The river water is stained from the tannins picked up from the button grass in the catchment area.

There is no mobile coverage in this beautiful area, and it is important that you are prepared for a variety of weather changes during the day. The weather can change rapidly and you don’t want to be caught out.

A DRIVE INTO THE WILDERNESS

The road to Strathgordon and Lake Pedder is sealed all the way, and makes for great driving, with or without your RV. The road takes you through mountain passes, past lookouts and between lakes. Lake Gordon and Lake Pedder are the main features, both man-made to help harness water for the hydroelectricity scheme, completed in the early 1970s. It was interesting to note that this was the last of this type of scheme completed in Tasmania. The Gordon Dam, a massive 140m high, is at the very end of the road. If your legs can handle it, there are steps down to the wall, around 200 of them, but don’t forget you will have to walk back up again! The dam levels are relatively low at the moment, so we had our lunch at a nearby boat ramp, sitting at about 60m below the high water mark!

Camping suitable for big rigs is available at Teds Beach, where you can launch a boat or kayak and fish. There are clean flushing toilets, and an enclosed camp kitchen and picnic area – important in this ever changing environment.

Getting off the sealed road, and following the signs to Scotts Peak and Edgar Dam along the Scotts Peak Dam, is another great drive on good condition gravel road. At around 40km long from the turn off, this drive, offers spectacular views over the Coronets, the Sentinel Range and Mt Wedge and takes you right down to two more dam walls, all part of the Gordon Dam – Lake Pedder system. About 2 km after leaving the sealed road is a mysterious little walk called The Creepy Crawly Nature Trail, a boardwalk trail through drooping moss covered trees, logs and man ferns. Be prepared to double yourself up as you crawl under, clamber over or swing around branches on this pretty 20 minute trail. Don’t be afraid – you are the creepy crawlies.

Camping is available near Scotts Peak Dam and Edgar Dam walls;Huon Camp near Scotts Peak is not suitable for caravans, but would be ok for small motorhomes. These are both great places to base camp if you are planning a wilderness hike into the South West National Park. Red Knoll Lookout completes this drive, with a 360° panoramic vista over the lakes, islands and beyond.

There is so much to see in the Tasmanian South West Wilderness, with few roads to travel on; do take the time to visit. Enjoy the drive, take in the spectacular scenery and most of all, ensure your camera is fully charged up for the experience!