Cooktown and beyond

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Old Techo
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Cooktown and beyond

Post by Old Techo » Tue Mar 03, 2015 6:14 pm

We have been caravanning for 11 years. Done over 85,000 van kms. Done the half-lap from Vic to Esperance, Perth, Tom Price, Broome, Darwin, Alice and home. Recently did the Birdsville track, Maree to Mt Isa and a few times been up the middle of NSW via Bourke but no further north than Rocky. Done the east coast several times but no further than Noosa.

This winter we plan to address the missing segment of Oz being Lawn Hill area, Cooktown and a little beyond. We are OK in getting to Lawn Hill and Cooktown but very interested in advice from experienced travellers in this area. I'm sure Jock will pop in but all are welcome.

Basically only interested in van parks but the odd free camp is also OK. We can cope without power or water for 2 or 3 nights. So you 'been there, done it' people do you have any advice for the Cooktown area a little to the west, south and as far north as our 'bitumen only' van will go?

Advice can include places to stay but also 'must see or do' stuff.

Your horse's mouth advice is most welcome :D
Regards, Old Techo
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dieseltojo
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Re: Cooktown and beyond

Post by dieseltojo » Tue Mar 03, 2015 6:20 pm

Hi OT ,
Its been so long ago that my info won't be current. Most folk used to leave their vans at Cooktown to go to the top with tents.
Just a memory but a famous artist heavy drinker used to stay at the pup that turns off the main road to Cooktown a good spot for a meal and to see all his art on the walls . It was his way to pay the rent. :)
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Azhure
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Re: Cooktown and beyond

Post by Azhure » Tue Mar 03, 2015 10:15 pm

We were in Cooktown in 2012, stayed at the Big 4 Cooktown Holiday Park http://www.cooktownholidaypark.com.au/ Not a cheap park, but one of the nicest we have stayed at, the managers at the time were lovely people.

If you want to stay on the bitumen with your van you really can't go much past there. We did a number of day trips without the van to places a bit north like Isabella Falls, and south east along part of the Bloomfield track. We really liked Cooktown, a couple of great museums and the view from Grassy Hill lookout shouldn't be missed.

We went to Lawn Hill in 2013, stayed at Adels Grove. The road to there via Gregory Downs, while gravel, was ok for on road vans as long as you took your time. The road between Adels Grove and Lawn Hill at that time was much much more corrugated, and we were very glad we hadn't tried to take the van into the National Park camping area. At Adels Grove we stayed in the Grove section, unpowered, no generators and shady down by the river, no set sites. We were a fair walk from the very good amenities block but we intentionally chose a secluded spot. The only water to fill tanks was up near the amenities. There are also set sites which allow generators and pets up above the Grove.

At Lawn Hill make sure you hire a canoe one morning to do the easy paddle down the gorge as far as the waterfalls. From there you can portage the canoe over a land section and paddle a further section, but we decided the canoe was too heavy for us to do that. Instead we had a swim and then ate our morning tea on the dock, with archer fish shooting at our bickies as we ate. The next morning we did the walk along the gorge, which gives you a different perspective on it than canoeing, both are well worth it. We also did a couple of the other walks in the park. Was without doubt one of our highlights of that trip.

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Re: Cooktown and beyond

Post by jock » Wed Mar 04, 2015 7:41 am

yeah G'day O.T....Love to "pop in" but before I do, What's the planned route..Do you intend to go to Lawn Hill first say via Longreach, Mt. Isa etc. ? then back East to Cooktown via the Burke & Wills Roadhouse, Normanton, Georgetown etc. etc?
Or are you doing the reverse? Up the Coast to Cooktown first?
How long have you given yourselves for the whole trip from Melb.?

Jock :?:

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Old Techo
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Re: Cooktown and beyond

Post by Old Techo » Wed Mar 04, 2015 8:54 am

Thanks Azhure for a comprehensive response :)

Jock, thanks also for your interest. We don't yet have planned route. It is just in the concept phase. When we did the Birdsville trek from south to north and included Isa we considered Lawn Hill but ruled it out on time. So we have no desire to visit Isa again.

Yes, I think Lawn Hill first, then Cooktown. I know nothing about this area and haven't even looked at a map. I expect we would head up the middle of NSW and get to Lawn Hill via the most direct but accessible route. There may be stuff to do/see from Lawn Hill to Cooktown. Also I had a feeling that some bitumen extended beyond Cooktown.

We are not afraid of some unmade roads having done the Birdsville track but it is essentially a bitumen van that I raised 2 inches and built stone protection - as you know.

How long have we allowed? As long as it takes. No hurry to get back to a chilly Melbourne. Thinking of July/August as rough windows but open to any suggestion :)
Regards, Old Techo
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glanyard
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Re: Cooktown and beyond

Post by glanyard » Wed Mar 04, 2015 9:16 am

OT,
I have just posted a PM to you.
It is part of our trip diary "Around the Block with Two Old Nomads-2013". SWMBO writes one everytime we go away and I edit it and add photos etc; you won't see the photos.
There is a description of some of the road conditions and attractions along the way, that may be of interest to you.
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J.REEVES
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Re: Cooktown and beyond

Post by J.REEVES » Wed Mar 04, 2015 9:23 am

Hi OT,
Yes a lot of my info will be out of date also.

Been to Lawn Hill a couple of times and that last five K was rough and from memory had a few spots that ground clearance could be an issue. The first 60 or so K is maintained by a mine that uses the road so usually good.

I stayed at the NP camp and it was good in my view but you do need to book ahead which can be a pain. Many easy and interesting walks and if you do the canoe I found it handy to have one or two of those plastic big 4gallon containers with the large water tight screw on tops to store all your stuff just in case you tip the canoe. You must do the canoe!

Not sure if you still can but near the Gregory Downs pub is lovely camping on the river some people actually stayed there and did day trips into Lawn Hill. That’s where you will get to hear the stories about the road into Lawn Hill, best not to listen.

If you do the Mount Isa underground tour best to book ahead maybe one or two months ahead.

Through the winter it can even get a bit hard to get into the caravan parks at Karamba.

As Jock said get a route planned and then the forum maybe able to give more specifics.

JR
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Old Techo
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Re: Cooktown and beyond

Post by Old Techo » Wed Mar 04, 2015 2:18 pm

glanyard wrote:OT,
I have just posted a PM to you.
Thanks Glannie for that useful info.

The diary dates didn't say which month but I figured it out from 'Bastille Day' :D
Regards, Old Techo
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glanyard
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Re: Cooktown and beyond

Post by glanyard » Wed Mar 04, 2015 2:38 pm

They have been working on those roads in recent years, so you may see a difference for the better.
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Old Techo
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Re: Cooktown and beyond

Post by Old Techo » Wed Mar 04, 2015 2:46 pm

J.REEVES wrote:Been to Lawn Hill a couple of times and that last five K was rough and from memory had a few spots that ground clearance could be an issue.

If you do the Mount Isa underground tour best to book ahead maybe one or two months ahead.
Thanks JR,

As mentioned my ground clearance is now 2 inches better. I just took this pic as a guide. Pity the sun is so strong causing the severe shadow underneath.

Ignore the stone shield skirt hanging down as the arms are folded. The extra height is why I built the fold-down step. As a visual guide, the centre of 14" wheels are usually exactly 1 foot off the ground so you can draw an imaginary line from them.

As I mentioned, no desire to go to Isa. We did the mine tour on that Birdsville trek.
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Regards, Old Techo
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