Redarc Tow Pro

[GerryP]

I agree with Paul in that the Tow Pro 'feels' smoother and certainly seems able to supply more overall braking effort to the van. The To Pro does not have a screen, so direct readouts are not available. However, it does have a multi-colour LED which flashes at different colours and rates for various modes and errors.

While the display on the P3 when I had it, was useful, I never really worried about anything other than the voltage occasionally out of interest.

Gerry

[Silver Anchor]

$249 at FeNacle show in Karratha, excellent bit of gear easy to install and calibrate, far smoother braking than any other I have used including P3. Have no idea what voltage it puts out and don't need to know, if its not working it blinks at you, have no idea what current goes to trailer light or how much hp motor is putting out at any given time either. This thing is simple it works and if it has a fault it flashes at you. Can apply Van brakes by simply pushing the knob in and set braking by dialling the knob 0-9. Currently we are on 3 and it stops our 3.5T van with ease.

[Old Techo]

Brake controllers are just like a garden tap. They allow a certain amount of water to flow though your garden hose (current) depending on how far you turn on the tap. They cannot increase or amplify the pressure available at your tap (battery).

The brake controller does not know how much wiring resistance you may have to each of your brake magnets or in fact if all of the magnets are working. The controller will only know if your van brake wiring is not plugged into the tug or if there is a short circuit somewhere.

My main point is that the only true integrity test of any van brake wiring/magnet is to measure how much current is flowing i.e. how much water is actually coming out the end of your garden hose. Each magnet can draw not much more than about 3.0 amps when connected directly to a 12 volt source. Thus a 4 magnet braking system will draw around 12 amps at best. This is what you need to know to be satisfied about the integrity of your braking system.

In the case of the P3 when it is set to max output then the manual override is applied it should for a tandem van display an output current of say at least 10 amps, but preferably more. This is the ultimate diagnostic test of your complete system. Without this feature one must break into the wiring and insert an ammeter. Measuring the output voltage of a brake controller tells you almost nothing about its load i.e. the magnets connected via the wiring and plug/socket.

[Sean]

Just got the attached flyer today and thought some of you may be interested in the pricing for these Redarc controllers.

Towpro is $185+GST
Remote head solid state $160+GST
Solid state is $90+GST

Ashdown Ingram are the same company as Repco, but operate separately and only do auto electrical products.

I don't work for them, just sharing what I perceive to be a bargain incase anybody is shopping at the moment.

[J.REEVES]

Had an unusual thing happen last week with my P3.

Braking on the van was not that good and when I applied the manual brake leaver nothing or almost nothing happened.

On checking the settings I found the power setting at 0.3 which is as good as nothing.

My controller is in a location where it is possible to tough it with my knee and the left hand up and down buttons which adjust the power setting had the lower button jammed in.
It appears that I may have knocked the lower button with my knee and it has lowered the power to 0.3 which is min setting, I am assuming 0.3 means 0.3volts.

I think the LH buttons will adjust the power even if the van is not connected and will save the setting without saying OK which is accomplished by using the bottom RH button.

Yes I like the P3 as OT said you can read current flow to the brakes which really gives the true story. Best I ever see is 5amps for two magnets.

JR

[Old Techo]

JR, the same sticky button that I had... http://www.candm.com.au/forum/viewtopic ... 47#p171647

I did not have your or any problem, just annoyed me. I suggest you take the same action for free

[jessdogster]

I've revived this old thread as I'm looking at a new cruiser and doing some research as space for P3 install is very limited on the new model.
Always liked the Tow Pro for space saving but the inertia type P3 was more appealing.

https://www.redarc.com.au/tow-pro-elite ... controller

It note that there is now a new Tow Pro (Elite) and it claims Automatic mode (Inertia sensing) for highway conditions - is this now the same as the Tekonsha P3?

Feedback from a Tow Pro Elite user would be handy (perhaps by comparo to the P3) and advice, as always, appreciated
Jdog

[Archer63]

I had a new tow pro elite fitted to my Pajero at the beginning of this year.
This was my first introduction to electric brake controllers, so I can not give a comparison with others.
But I wil say that I am very happy with it, although I wish the auto electrician who fitted it had put in a more visible area than under and to the left of the steering wheel where I have to move my head a bit to see it. To be fair though, he did say that it was imperative that the head controller be fitted to a flat surface...not curved in any way.

Cheers
Rob

[GerryP]

The Redarc Tow Pro has always been inertia sensing (proportional braking). The Elite version only provides an updated calibration mode. The operation of the unit remains the same as previous Tow Pro models.

Prior to the Tow Pro, the Redarc unit was indeed non inertia sensing, but that was the EBRH model, not the Tow Pro.

I have had both the Tekonsha and the Tow Pro and prefer the latter by far. Not only does it provide better braking (at least in my case), but I love the fact that all I have is a small, remote adjusting knob on the dash and not a large unit mounted down near my knee.

Don't get me wrong, the Tekonsha is a good unit, but is not my personal preference after having had both.

[Old Techo]

The only comment I can make is the price difference. Redarc $360 and Tekonsha $187 (includes free 30 amp CB)