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 generators. 
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Joined: Wed Jun 24, 2009 5:06 pm
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Location: Doveton vic
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Hi allwise,
If this is a working holiday and the mig is for profit ,that is one thing but if you are primarily taking it for running repairs,it may be advantageous to just get a powered site for a couple of days to use the parks power.As noted by others a genny likes to run at a full load now and then to bed the rings in etc,and if you are only occasionally using it,it may be better to go a smaller unit.
Good luck with the trip any way,no doubt you will have a lot of decisions like this to make.

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Mon Nov 30, 2009 4:56 pm
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If looking on ebay type in pocket rocket. they were known as monkey bikes, my son and I raced them for a while, I had too fit a big bore kit and pipe to make up for his weight advantage LOL. I used the left overs on my geny.

Have you ever seen a 45 yearold man doing a wheel stand on a monkey bike, felt good but looked stupid.


Mon Nov 30, 2009 6:24 pm
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Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2008 11:54 am
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Location: Melbourne
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allwise wrote:
hi all. i am in the process of setting up my van for the great aussie trip. and at the moment i am looking at a 4 stroke homelight generator 6500w. new for $1200 i need this size in which to operate my mig welder. so i would like any one out there for your comments on the matter, good or bad would be appriciated.
big al

G'day Al,
If you only want the mig for repairs, why don't you just use 3 batteries in series and dc weld with 36 volts. I carry a welding lens, weldall rods and a couple of extra jumpers leads with terminals. (you do need a good connection or you could melt them). I have used this a few times in the bush. 36 vdc is a bit fierce and 24 vdc is not enough, so put some fencing wire or small flat bar resistor in series and that makes it adjustable. I have welded a couple of shockers and sway bars back on. My old caravan chassis cracked, I welded it and strengthened it with a bit of metal. When I got it home I had to grind it off for a proper repair, it was hard to get off. The penetration was really good, it took a lot of breaking.
I make up a welding mask with anything cardboard (slab box) and stick the lens in. For the electrode holder, I drilled and tapped a 3/8" bolt to hold the rod, this bolt can now be easily held firmly with the jumper lead clamp
There is no insulation on the clamp, so if you are in a tight spot wrap some insulation tape around it.
If you need the mig for work that is different.

Cheers,

Bill


Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:19 am
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Location: anywhere in australia
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BillMc wrote:
G'day Al,
If you only want the mig for repairs, why don't you just use 3 batteries in series and dc weld with 36 volts. I carry a welding lens, weldall rods and a couple of extra jumpers leads with terminals. (you do need a good connection or you could melt them). I have used this a few times in the bush. 36 vdc is a bit fierce and 24 vdc is not enough, so put some fencing wire or small flat bar resistor in series and that makes it adjustable. I have welded a couple of shockers and sway bars back on. My old caravan chassis cracked, I welded it and strengthened it with a bit of metal. When I got it home I had to grind it off for a proper repair, it was hard to get off. The penetration was really good, it took a lot of breaking.
I make up a welding mask with anything cardboard (slab box) and stick the lens in. For the electrode holder, I drilled and tapped a 3/8" bolt to hold the rod, this bolt can now be easily held firmly with the jumper lead clamp
There is no insulation on the clamp, so if you are in a tight spot wrap some insulation tape around it.
If you need the mig for work that is different.

Cheers,

Bill


welding is part of the many skills i have, as well as cabnet making, so the genny isn't just for the mig. it will also power a compessor. that i use for my pnumatic tools. and my portable work bench. so i guess the genny is for both to power the van, and supply the pwer for the equipment, ill probley pic up some work from time to time when i want to. so today i went and bought it. its a homelite 6000w 50hz genny. got it home and started it up then put the full load, on it van power including air con. and comperssor. and welder. she works great. and only cost $1100.00. now all i gotta do is work out whether she can go on the A frame, had the weights checked the other day and the BW was only 100kg. i know that i can go to 300kg, less 10% so thats 270kg. so this week i will be doing a lot of maths, and working out the best option," bugga" feel like im back at school again.

al

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Sun Dec 06, 2009 7:35 pm
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Post Old Techo
How can half of 80db turn into 3db????
Bill and Dawn:confused:

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Tue Dec 08, 2009 5:01 pm
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Post sounds confusing
How can half of 80db turn into 3db???? Bill and Dawn:confused:


G'day B&D;,

Hmmmmmmmm.... did I say that? Quoting me in your reply would help context but I'll have a stab. I think Al said cutting the noise level of 80db would lower it to 40db. I would have replied with... reducing a noise level to half would only be a 3db reduction. This means that if it was 80db and then cut in half it would be 3db less meaning 77db.

The reason for the seemingly odd mathematics is the human ear sensitivity approximates a logarithmic scale. If it followed a linear scale then when the ear drum moved 1 thousand of an inch for a very soft sound it would correspondingly move 1 foot for a very loud sound. So the ear becomes desensitised at higher sound pressure levels and your ear drum doesn't leap out of your head. The logarithmic scale is a bit like the Richter scale for earthquakes. A Richter 7 quake is ten times stronger than a 6. Quite non-linear.

With sound levels measured in decibels (one tenth of a Bell) each time the sound level doubles in intensity (twice the power) it increases by only 3 decibels. Such a change in level is barely discernable to the human ear. It takes a level change of around 10 db (3+3+3 is double, double, double or over 8 times as strong) to sound about twice as loud.

So, to answer your query.... a sound pressure level half as loud as 80db is a 3db change = 77db. To actually sound half as loud it would need to be a 10db reduction to 70db. I hope this is clear but if any remaining dilemma please feel free to ask.

Regards

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Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:40 pm
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