THE TRIANGLE OF GEMS
Most travellers have heard of Tamworth’s famous Golden Guitar, but not far away there is a golden triangle of little gems just waiting to be discovered
WORDS BY MARIE HOBSON, PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARIE AND GLEN HOBSON
Nestled in the northwest of NSW, you’ll find a little triangle of “golden” small towns quietly waiting to reveal the treasures that lie within. Take a week out of your itinerary to explore the wonderful attractions at Manilla, Bendemeer and Sheba Dam and you’ll go away determined to return. Even better, country music fans will find that all three locations make a great base for the noted Tamworth Country Music Festival in January.
BENDEMEER
Located between Tamworth and Armidale and first settled in the 1830s, Bendemeer became known as the Gateway to New England because its river crossing provided the only route to the tablelands after a bridge was built in 1874. The town hugs the banks of the MacDonald River, which is popular with trout fishers, and is now a quiet little hamlet after being bypassed by the New England Highway.
We visited Bendemeer with my sister and brother-in-law Cathy and Fred on a noisy, fun-filled weekend when the NRL held its grand final. The historic two-storey hotel was packed with travellers and locals keen to watch their team on the big screen, after enjoying a country-style meal from the bistro.
Nestled on rolling lawns which stretch down to the usually quiet waterway, this traditional Federation hotel is a convenient short walk to the friendly, family-owned caravan park, where we booked in for three nights. The following morning we rose to a crisp white frost; the last touch of winter. Rugging up, we cooked a bacon and egg breakfast outdoors, watched closely by a couple of friendly magpies keen for a tasty titbit.
The good news about Bendemeer is that you can park your car and walk to the well-stocked general store or the Old Bowery Inn, a community co-operative with a wonderful collection of arts and craft. Enthusiastic volunteers serve morning teas and light lunches each day and, if you’re feeling creative, you’re welcome to stay a while and participate in one of their art or craft workshops. If you are into bowls, the greens are right next door to the pub.
Just strolling around this delightful village is a pleasure, with fat lambs gambolling in paddocks and families out on bicycles or paddling in the river. Kayaking is also popular here when the river is running, but there was not enough water for us to launch our kayaks so we drove to nearby Woolbrook and found a spot to put in. My sister Cathy and I paddled happily for quite a distance, observed by curious cattle and sheep in nearby paddock. Woolbrook has a free campsite, with a relatively new toilet block, and a good many campers and caravanners were taking advantage of the three-day break to enjoy the great outdoors.
While public toilets and barbecues are available on the reserve opposite the Bendemeer Hotel, the free camping area on the western side of the caravan park has no amenities.
The population at Bendemeer is boosted every three years when the Grey Fergie Tractor Muster attracts proud owners of classic tractors for the festival. At other times, the community hosts the annual Australian Bushmen’s Campdraft Rodeo Association Rodeo, and the Colours of the Autumn Bendemeer Art and Craft Exhibition, drawing visitors from a wide radius.
Bendemeer can be very cold in winter but it is a cool haven in summer and a delightful stopover at any time during the year.
SHEBA DAM
Heading south towards Tamworth, which is only 40km away, travellers can turn off the highway just after Moonbi towards Nundle and Hanging Rock (through Dungowan), or venture down to the Country Music Capital to stock up on supplies and fuel. From there you can continue along the highway towards Willow Tree, taking the Nundle turn-off before Wallabadah. If you want to stay a while in the area, there’s a great free camp at the First Fleeters Park.
The road to Nundle is sealed and, as the heart of the northern NSW gold rush of the 1850s, this very pretty town is famous for its Go For Gold Chinese Festival at Easter. That’s not the only drawcard for visitors. They also host the Great Nundle Dog Race, and you can explore the historic Nundle Woollen Mill and a number of historic buildings. The Nundle Peel Inn is steeped in history and is very popular with day trippers at the weekend. If you’re staying at the caravan park, you’ll find it well appointed with a spectacular view.
Winding up the mountain towards Hanging Rock, the road is well maintained. Although steep in sections, it’s well worth the climb. After passing through the former gold mining village on to the Sheba Dams – constructed by Chinese workers by hand over a three-week period in 1888 – you’ll be blown away by the high country bushland scene with the twinkling waters of the dam glinting between the trees.
It is all free camping here, with toilets, picnic tables, fireplaces and a million dollar view. After setting up and getting the camp fire started, it›s time for happy hour while dinner cooks in the camp oven.
A bush walk around the two dams is a must, or you can throw in a line to try for trout. In late summer, blackberries abound. This idyllic spot has a little jetty and an artificial beach for swimmers.
A nearby lookout provides you with an awesome panorama down the valley, and the pioneer cemetery is a sad reminder of the harsh conditions experienced by these early settlers. The last burial here was in 1935, and if you wander around you’ll spot a memorial to Mrs Henry Ashton, wife of the founder of Ashton’s Circus. Mrs Ashton died in childbirth at Hanging Rock and is buried at Maitland.
In summer, Sheba Dam is a cool retreat from the heat but be prepared to rug up if you visit in winter, and check the weather forecast first: it has been known to snow here! Mobile phone service is very limited.
MANILLA
After returning to Tamworth, it is well worth pointing your car towards Manilla, only 48km away. This delightful farming town is close to the water playground of Lake Keepit, with fishing, boating, camping, soaring and gliding, and easy access to Split Rock Dam.
Book into the shady River Gums Caravan Park where you will receive a warm welcome. The sites are generous and the amenities clean and plentiful. The park is nestled on the Namoi River, with a weir at one end and delightful mini falls.
This is a great place to swim, kayak or fish and is safe for children. A reserve between the park and river is home to an impressive stand of towering gums, with abundant birdlife. It is safe for children to ride their bikes here and a lovely area for happy hour.
There is a small kiosk but the town is only a short drive or leisurely walk away, with plenty of great eateries, including an authentic Greek cafe that serves garden-fresh food and delicious old fashioned milkshakes. It was named the Canberra Cafe in 1927, to commemorate the opening of the Commonwealth Parliament that year.
There is a well-appointed historic museum in the main street, a supermarket and a number of delightful boutique shops with all kinds of unique wares.
At the museum complex, visitors can explore George Royce’s House, the Yarramanbully Schoolhouse, the Chinese Memorial Garden and Burrell’s Platypusary before immersing themselves in the Manilla & District Archives and community collection.
Manilla is internationally famous for paragliding and those so inclined can learn to fly at the world-class facility and flying site, Mt Borah, which hosted the 2007 Paragliding World Championships. Everything is in one place – the mountain, training slopes, classroom, and accommodation. If your paragliding days are well behind you, you’ll still enjoy watching!
Once you’ve finished exploring our ‘triangle of gems’, your journey can continue to the charming town of Bingara, a little further north, with Inverell and Copeton Dam also attractive places to enjoy caravanning. This is an area that just keeps on giving!