WHERE THE OUTBACK MEETS THE GULF

Near the edge of ‘civilisation’, the Southern Flinders region presents an astonishing variety of landscapes and unique encounters

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY TRINA AND RAY MORRIS

When we hear the words ‘Flinders Ranges’, images arise of the ancient, rugged mountains and arid, rocky valleys around Wilpena Pound. But there’s a whole different story to the Flinders. The region known as the Southern Flinders Ranges – where the South Australian outback kisses Spencer Gulf – is an amazing touring region. It offers travellers a truly astonishing range of touring opportunities because of its unique diversity. From landscapes under wheat and ghost towns in the drier north, to serene coastal fishing towns in the west, and fertile livestock and vineyard enterprises in the rolling green hills of the region’s south east.

There are countless historic towns, many with significant railroad heritage and museums to visit. Dramatic landscapes abound with national parks and conservation reserves to explore on foot, by 4WD or bicycle. There are fantastic places to stay, and laid back country folk ready to share their stories and make your time in the Southern Flinders memorable.

The secrets of the Southern Flinders Ranges are a perfect example of why we all need to slow down and spend a little more time in one place, getting to know the land and its people.

PORT AUGUSTA

The Wadlata Outback Centre is the ideal place to start your Port Augusta encounter. The helpful staff know the Southern Flinders Ranges region inside out, and a massive extension to the building houses an incredible experience - the ‘Tunnel of Time’. Once you pass through the gigantic jaws of a reptile (which the kids love), you can journey for hours through an interpretive evolution of the Flinders Ranges and outback South Australia.

The Arid Lands Botanic Gardens are also a must-visit destination. Set on 250 acres on the northern outskirts of Port Augusta, walking tracks meander through groupplantings of arid zone vegetation, dotted with quirky sculptures and bird hides. Interpretation signs explain the unusual plants and the visitor centre offers guided tours.

Not far away, the spectacular Matthew Flinders lookout – the man himself stood there in 1802 and named a stack of prominent geographical features within view – overlooks the immense orangered cliffs at the tip of Spencer Gulf, on the northern edge of Port Augusta, providing stunning views of the Flinders Ranges. The lookout parking area is next to the botanic gardens, and has plenty of room for caravans.

Far below the lookout, the gentle progress of vessels from the ‘Flinders and Outback Water Cruises’ can be seen floating past, as they explore the top of the gulf. This tour is rich in wildlife and scenic beauty – an excellent Port Augusta experience.

PORT TO PORT

The coastal strip of the Southern Flinders Ranges region, from Port Augusta to Port Pirie, is focused on laid back seaside life. An exploration of the Spencer Gulf coast is a must for nomads carrying rods and reels. It’s an incredible comparison to the arid northern parts of the same region, where tumbleweeds blow through deserted stone ruins!

Port Pirie has a great beachside caravan park and is the ideal location Wadlata Outback Centre from which to explore the southern inland reaches of the region: Napperby, Telowie and Port Germein gorges; fishing, crabbing and paddling at Weeroona Island; Crystal Brook’s famous pasties and antiques; Laura’s statue of the legendary poet CJ Dennis; the Wirrabara produce markets and the historic gaol in Gladstone. For nature-lovers, the choices of national parks and conservation reserves are excellent, along with a multitude of freedom camping options if you prefer to live independently in a quiet place.

A QUICK DASH NORTH

If an exploration of the Flinders Ranges National Park far to the north is not on your agenda, we thoroughly recommend you still take a day trip to the delightful town of Quorn, 30km NE of Port Augusta. Like so many places in the Southern Flinders, this quaint old town’s charm, historic streetscapes and dramatic surrounding countryside have been an attraction for movie producers around the world, so it’s sure to please nomads seeking something special.

Some say the crowning glory of a visit to Quorn is a ride on the Pichi Richi tourist railway’s iconic ‘coffee pot’ locomotive. There are two tours – a scenic 33km day trip between Quorn and Port Augusta, or the popular 18km half day trip to Woolshed Flat. For us, the highlight was exploring the hills and ranges surrounding Quorn. The Mt Arden Range, Dutchman’s Stern, Warren Gorge, Willochra Creek and Waukari Falls are all stunningly beautiful, and there’s a fantastic free camp at Warren Gorge.

BEAUTIFUL VALLEY

From Port Augusta, we trekked southeast to the lovely settlement of Wilmington, a productive agricultural area graced with a rich farming heritage. It was originally named Beautiful Valley, and the grand vista of Wilmington’s splendour can be appreciated from the Mount Maria trail and Hancock’s lookout. Our favourite Wilmington experience was a visit to spectacular Alligator Gorge in Mount Remarkable National Park, 20km south.

Mount Remarkable is geographically placed at the heart of the Southern Flinders Ranges region. Its pulsating beauty lies in prominent peaks, steep wooded valleys, pretty creeks and rugged red-quartzite gorges. An easy two kilometre walking trail reveals spectacular rock formations following a creek that’s lined with big eucalypts. A longer walk drops into the gorge, involving many steps, but the flat trail along the valley floor is easy and very beautiful.

Habitation signs of the traditional owners of Mount Remarkable are evident, and the Nukunu people continue to have very strong traditional ties with the region. After European settlement, the Mount Remarkable area was farmed by graziers, so ruins of pastoral homesteads, huts, relics and fence lines can be seen. Numerous picnic facilities are available, and the best of the park’s campgrounds for caravanners is at Mambray Creek, on the Gulf side of the range.

Melrose, proclaimed in 1853, is the oldest town in the Flinders Ranges, and sits on the park’s eastern doorstep. Melrose is a mountain biking mecca, and has a free camp, showground and caravan park options to suit every traveller. Our camp choice was a fantastic farm stay at Bartagunyah Estate, a wonderful 2500 acre working sheep, beef and winery property, with a plethora of private tracks and trails to explore by 4WD, mountain bike or on foot.

THE ROAD EAST

Our eastward journey from Wilmington led us to the Orroroo- Carrieton district in the northerneastern area of the Southern Flinders Ranges region. It is a popular tourism destination, being only three hours north of Adelaide, and has a wonderful 1880s heritage charm.

The Giant Red Gum at Orrorroo’s lovely Pekina Creek is reputedly South Australia’s most magnificent red gum and is worth a look. Downstream, and within easy walking distance of the caravan park, are several other attractions, including Aboriginal rock carvings which depict sacred symbolic patterns that mapped local food and water sources.

Close by you’ll find a more recent example of Orrorroo anthropological history – several poems carved into a solid rock face in the late 1890s. Overlooking Orrorroo is the Tank Hill lookout viewing platform with extensive views over the surrounding countryside. South of Orrorroo, Black Rock has a unique tourist attraction, Magnetic Hill, where vehicles reputedly roll uphill! Seeing is believing!

The little town of Carrieton is an easy day drive north of Orrorroo. A network of walking trails offer spectacular views from various points, and the range’s unusual Moockra Tower Rock is definitely worth a look. In Carrieton, look out for a marvellous 12m mural, made from 900 hand sculptured and painted clay tiles depicting the district’s development since 1870.

TRAIN SPOTTING

There’s no mistaking Peterborough’s railway heritage! Its geographical location half way between Sydney and Perth, and close to Adelaide, Whyalla and Broken Hill led it to become the crossroad of all major transcontinental rail routes. The town’s key role as a regional maintenance and service centre for South Australia’s railway rolling stock may be long gone, but Peterborough has preserved its heritage.

It also has its eye on the tourist ball, and prides itself on being an RV-friendly town with great rest areas, dedicated parking for big rigs, and a terrific little overnight RV park at the sportsground. Exploration is easy with history walk and self-drive maps available from the Tourist Information Centre or the Peterborough Caravan Park. Peterborough’s monthly markets are a popular attraction for the grey nomad fraternity. While I scoured them for fresh supplies, Ray made a clever tactical manoeuvre and shot over to the motorcycle museum.

At the Peterborough Tourism Centre, visitors are invited to step back in time aboard a restored 1917 first-class sleeping carriage from the original East-West Express. Turn-ofthe- century railroad luxury abounds in leather seats, ornate polished timber fittings, pressed tin ceilings, leadlight glass and gorgeous antique vanity basins. Ah, those were the days!

Peterborough’s crowning glory, however, is ‘Steamtown’ – what an incredible railroad museum.