WESTERN RED DIRT MUSTER
From coast to outback a convoy of vans converge on Rawlinna for the annual Nullarbor Muster – a fantastic and exciting destination at the end of a beaut touring adventure
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY IAN ROBERTSON
Setting off from Bunbury on the coast and heading on our way to the Nullarbor Muster at Rawlinna, a now disused rail siding on the Trans Australian line, we planned to traverse some 400km of dirt road as part of a convoy of camper trailers, and caravans. We were the one and only motorhome on the journey and this route was to provide a testing ground for our brand new ‘home away from home’.
Our first stop was at Bruce Rock. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a friendly shopkeeper who told us “If you have the correct change the newspaper is yours before I open, and by the way there’s hot showers and toilets for you across the road at the Motor Museum.” This welcome greeting by the newsagent at Bruce Rock, Western Australia was to set the tone for the rest of our amazing trip. We stayed on, filled with fuel, and had a beer with the locals. If you’re looking for an RV friendly town, Bruce Rock is definitely it. Only if more towns followed, it would be a happier world.
SETTING OFF
We had briefly passed the township of Yealering earlier with its lake, toilets, playground and golf course. Needing to make headway into our trip, their small and inexpensive caravan park was marked as a definite future stopover on our next visit.
A worthwhile deviation six kilometres off the Great Eastern Highway is the town of Westonia. Based on gold-mining and sheep, it is the former which keeps it buoyant for the time being at least. To help out the town, be sure to visit the combined cafe and craft shop and enjoy a great coffee. A few doors down at the original Club Hotel site is the Hood-Penn Museum, named after the generous donation by the family who owned the nearby Burracoppin store. Truly one of the best displays of early life in Australia that we’ve seen, which includes a mine simulator. With lifelike wax mannequins, the artefacts make the experience seem real. Volunteer Mick Cunningham obligingly gave up his knowledge of life in the era for a mere $3 entrance fee.
Heading eastward brought us to a secluded free camp facility just 12km before Kalgoorlie at Lake Douglas. The evening waters glowed with a hastily prepared crackling fire in the BBQs provided. Birds settled squawking in nearby trees as we too nestled our heads on pillows for a well-earned sleep. An amazing red glow greeted us at sunrise as we set a trail for the short trip via Kalgoorlie to Rowles Lagoon. We pass Kalgoorlie’s famous and still operating two-up school, Broad Arrow Hotel with its must-see interior decor and Ora Banda Hotel where we turn left for the next hour of corrugated road. Our motorhome handled it jarringly well. The Rowles Lagoon conservation park is larger than Britain we are told with a large lake home for many bird species. Toilets and individual camping spots provide some seclusion for our visit.
THE ROAD TO RAWLINNA
All packed up the next morning we head off at a civilised 9am and, as we turned onto the Trans Australia Access Road, we were greeted by a sign. Our hearts dropped. “Road Closed east of Zanthus”. This is a reminder that travellers around this area should always check with local authorities on road conditions in advance. We phoned the Shire who soon got back to us that it is now open but to take care as there are still a number of washouts to negotiate. My wife and I looked at each other to confirm it’s OK to take our new motorhome on this potentially treacherous road. Thankfully, we had the support of the other seasoned travellers. We found the road was better than expected and only barely corrugated in parts, superior to that experienced west of Ora Banda. The washouts we found were able to be just skirted around rather than through.
As we arrived a day earlier on the Thursday before the Muster commenced there were only four other groups camped, so over the afternoon we soon filled up a stretch of the camping area with our 16 van convoy. Freshly showered in the clean 2014 built ablution block, we sat in front of another crackling campfire to relive the last days’ driving exploits and prepare for the following days’ events while perusing the printed programme.
THE MUSTER
We awaited the commencement of Friday’s events by inspecting and comparing rigs and ideas. Some solved water pump issues and we repaired a blown fuse on one of our house batteries with neighbour John’s help. Others unhitched and drove to the old town of Rawlinna – the attraction was to see all the dining tables set up, as the Indian Pacific train stops here on its westbound journey for the passengers to embark for dinner under the stars.
The novice bull ride precedes the Open with Eddie Forrester leading the way. We later hear the names of Mark and Amy Forrester receiving winning ribbons. The Forrester’s are major landholders of the area who help make up the field for this muster. Some novelty events for the local participants as well as visitors to enter include Ironman and Iron Woman competitions, a Nullarbor boat race followed by musical entertainment in the shed and another campfire chat.
The Saturday programme begins with an early start at 8am with barrel races and skeet shooting. Our travelling friends Greg and Kath compete doggedly with Greg shooting a commendable 9/10. His wife’s novice attempt of 1/10 is surpassed by her subsequent attempt of 6/10. A great opportunity to personally try something new as Kath brags of her new addiction.
As well as more novelty events there are more keenly competed events to follow throughout the day. A feature, not initially on my ‘bucket list to see’, was the arm wrestle. In the women’s section heats, Olivia provided a shed full of onlookers with an impressive twenty-five minute battle. Tension was felt around the shed as much as in their arms. She naturally progressed to the final but was narrowly defeated after another display of dogged determination. This was all the more pronounced due to her slight frame. Local Johnno Wright progressed to be the winner of the men’s final.
The evening showcased the final of the bull riding, seeing local landowners represented by Mark Forrester as final open winner. It was an impressive sight with the ring surrounded by onlookers and the setting red sky as a backdrop.
Sunday started with a ute competition to give bragging rights opportunities to many of the local community. Indeed this is the main reward for the competitors as any prize money is donated back to the major cause of the event – the Royal Flying Doctor Service. This is especially appreciated by this closely knit, but remote community. For the last event our group bonded as we entered a team in the truck pull competition, fiercely contested as we were up against our better halves – the winner cannot be divulged!
RETURNING HOME
The return trip was planned to extend further east to Haigh and to the south along a supposedly better dirt road to the black-top of the Eyre Highway and Cocklebiddy, then westward home. However the local police warned of potholes and sharp tyre attracting rocks. So unfortunately we would have to retake the same scenery as we retraced our steps back via Zanthus to Kalgoorlie. An hour and a half at the local Kalgoorlie carwash saw hopefully the last of the red dust drip off the motorhome to reveal its true white colour once again.
We stayed at the free 24hour overnighter stop at the south end of town at Centennial Park. Toilets and BBQ facility are in the adjoining park. This is a gravel based stop for only fully self-contained RVs. For those who indulge the mobile coffee van arrives in the early hours. The local ranger does check in the late afternoon and morning for vans overstaying their time. So please do the right thing and follow the rules so this type of area is supported and can remain for future use.
We took a turn off the Great Eastern Highway just before entering Merredin southward to Narembeen, then onward through Kulin and Williams to Bunbury. Kulin was marked as another of those ‘must return to’ places. It’s RV friendly with 72 hour free stay, toilet, shower, BBQ as well as having a feature tourist attraction of the interestingly named Tin Can Highway. Roadside metal sculpture art depicting various poses and scenes are a welcome distraction along its length. It leads to Jilakin Rock which also is home to the annual Kulin Races in November… now that’s another story!
This trip was to test our newly acquired motorhome in safety with other likeminded people enjoying stories and our unique Australian scenery. We passed. We’ll surely test ourselves again and trust you will too.
