VINTAGE VAN INVASION

Fred takes a group of vintage vanners on an incredible coastal NSW tour they’ll never forget

WORDS BY FRED WRIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRED WRIGHT AND JOHN HABERFIELD

If you know me at all, you’ll know how much I love hearing historical stories of yesteryear, especially stories from an age where I was knee-high to a grasshopper. So when I got a phone call from a mate saying he and 60 of his friends were meeting up, and bringing their vintage caravans along, you could imagine how quickly I hopped in the Isuzu MU-X and made my way north to see this sight. On this trip, I caught up with 30 vintage vans, and took a select few on an unforgettable run through the Hunter Valley, the Great Lakes and Forster. This trip has everything – nostalgia, great food and wine, brilliant free camps, and some coastal views you won’t want to leave. You’re going to love it!

Your adventures begin at Stockton Beach just north of Newcastle NSW about 160km from Sydney and here you’ll be on the sandy shores of the Tasman Sea.

A word of advice, if I may, is to suggest that you hasten slowly because there’s so much to see, experience and enjoy even at your starting points.

For example, once you’re set up with Stockton Beach as your base camp – simply catch a nearby ferry to cross the Hunter River into Newcastle, visit the maritime centre and spend many leisurely hours at Fort Scratchley with its history and heritage buildings. Stretching further than the eye can see north are more than 30km of shifting sands which are the longest continuous mobile dunes in the southern hemisphere.

This was and is the home of the Wasini Aboriginal people who’ve lived here for more than 10,000 years and who saw this coastal region as a land of plenty with oysters, pippies, fish and native animals in abundance. You might want to investigate the rusting wreck of the ‘Sygna’ on the beach by going on a tour or perhaps for the super adventurous quad biking, horse riding or sand sliding down 30m dunes may be the go.

Captain James Cook’s log first records the sighting of this area on May 10, 1770 and you may want to search out the history of the early days of European settlement and learn about the salt works, iron foundry and chemical works producing sulphuric acid and axel-grease. Perhaps you’ll discover the origins of the tannery, vineyards and wonder that electric light was first installed into a colliery here in 1884.

Even the local caravan park has steps buried deep beneath today’s campsites, while the blue waters lapping at white, sandy beaches on balmy days and nights are like a magnet for the holiday makers. Returning to your maps you’ll discover that the magnificent Hunter Valley region stretches inland, virtually from your doorstep with so many world class wineries to choose from, museums to explore, steam trains to ride and the finest food and wine trails anywhere. And when you’re relaxing back in your home away from home why not drop in a fishing line for flathead, bream or whatever’s on the bite.

Staying at Stockton awhile makes for a good plan, as nearby there are; banks, a large supermarket, heritage buildings, pubs and delightful green grassy parks – perfect for lunch outings.

Stockton has a welcoming seaside atmosphere and seems so far from the industrial and commercial hub that is Newcastle.

Here’s a budget tip – try the local bowling club for $8 lunches or the Chinese Café in town at $10 for a lunch and soft drink. We found it hard to leave Stockton Beach, once called ‘Pirates Point’, but our final destination at Forster/Tuncurry kept beckoning.

What about patting a stingray in its pool and coming within inches of a shark? Well at Irukandji Shark and Stingray centre at Bob’s Farm you can do this and amaze the grandkids with photographic proof. There’s a most informative talk, I learnt that not all sharks have to continually move to live and the important role they play in the ecology of our oceans.

Now while at Stockton Beach, we were in the beaut company of some 60 vanners. Not ordinary vanners, but vintage vanners, with vans dating back to beyond 1972. Their stories were legion as to where and how they found their vans and the steps they took to restore them to their former glory. These vintage vanners showed us that you don’t need to be high-tech to travel the road in style. Joining in on all the festivities, food and fun, these lovely people really knew how to let their hair down! Other adventures included a trip to Murray’s Craft Brewery, where you can taste aplenty, but don’t overlook the tour of the brewery. The owner once ran ‘the pub with no beer’, but that’ll never happen here. They’ve even got ‘Fred’s’ Craft beer too!

Fighter World at Williamtown is on your way north to Forster via Bulahdelah and there are plenty of attractions for everyone to enjoy. You’ll see jet fighters lovingly and accurately restored by avid volunteers, but make no mistake – this is a professional outfit. What’s special is that there are no barriers to exhibits so you can get as close as you like and in the case of the swept wing F1-11 fighter bomber, take a seat behind the controls.

After hours exploring and seeing a Sopwith Camel Fighter plane, one of the first ever fighters from WWI under construction, you can sit in the café for a quiet cuppa or bite to eat. Did I say quiet? Well, that depends on the Hornet jets screaming in above you. To get a better look at these beauties, climb up the observation platform.

Bulahdelah is the gateway to the Great Lake system of NSW. This destination region showcases the beauty and versatility of Australia. Catering to; family holidays, adventure holidays, boating holidays and romantic escapes. If you’re looking to take time out from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, I thoroughly recommend Bulahdelah. Of course one of the best places to stay while in Bulahdelah is the Lion’s Freedom Camp – What it lacks in amenities, it more than makes up for with the perfect waterside location. There’s nothing like waking up in the morning, stepping out of your RV and having the river at your fingertips. Located over the Myall River Bridge, just a short stroll from town – Lion’s Freedom Camp, Bulahdelah is an excellent place to settle down for a few days. There are also caravan parks, a general store and the most beautiful beaches and coastal scenery anywhere. You will want to go on beach walks, fish, take in stunning sunsets and experience this spectacular place. Bulahdelah is the perfect last stop, with cafes, a supermarket and hotel – for those in the mood for luxury – before heading off on the freeway onto the Lakes Way and an untamed wilderness.

Back on the road to Forster you’ll travel, framed on the left by beautiful lakes and on the right by coastal beaches with white sands and blue waters. Make sure to take your time and drop into the fishing village of Seal Rocks some 11km off the Lakes Wall.

Many will want to spend time at Pacific Palms, Boomerang Beach and Bluey’s Beach, each with their own attractions. You could have a holiday just in this area alone as there’s so much to see and enjoy.

Soon, about 30km from the turn off to Seal Rocks you come to the outskirts of Forster. You’ll be spoilt with the number of caravan parks on offer, the RSL, shops, supermarkets and the opportunity to swim or take a boat ride on Well’s Lake. Try the beaches such as Main Beach – closest to town, or the rock pool there.

Once you cross the bridge, you’ll enter Tuncurry, once known as North Forster, with its shopping centre, hotel, supermarket, and museum and picture theatre. I’ve had the privilege of travelling to most ports of Australia, but when I cross that bridge, see those shimmering blue waters and the many dolphins there, I just know that nothing else with all its attractions comes close. Forster really does hold a special place in my heart. I always like to begin my mornings in Forster with a coffee at the Beach Bum’s Café – right on Forster Main Beach. Breakfast is of course followed by an amazing seafood lunch and oysters at happy hour, by the water as the sun goes down.

There are so many things to do in Forster; dolphin and whale watching; 4WDriving at Tuncurry on the beach; prawning and crabbing; afternoon snacks at the fisherman’s co-op and boats you can hire to meander up the lake if you wish, or stop at one of the many sand islands for an unforgettable lunch. Make sure you take and send plenty of photos or your friends and family will have trouble comprehending your multitude of memories.

This trip is for all seasons and will take you on the road less travelled, the Lake Way, introducing you to a new world of wonders, tailor made for caravanners and motorhomes. A word of advice though, is to book early, very early, if you’re going to visit at peak times.