TRUE TASSIE WILDERNESS
Experience the beautiful rainforests, fresh air and immense Aussie history of South West Tasmania
WORDS BY LORRAINE HOLLOWAY PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN AND LORRAINE HOLLOWAY
A visit to Tasmania’s West Coast can include a gamut of weather conditions, wilderness drives and walks, beautiful, rambling towns and a few big ticket attractions. During our recent visit, we tasted the lot – including four seasons in one day, and it only added to the beauty of the wild side of the state.
QUEENSTOWN
Our opener to the west was Queenstown. We had zig-zagged through the mountains from Derwent Bridge, via the Lyell Highway, or what the locals call the 99 bends – a series of bends offering spectacular views over Queenstown. The former moon-scape is starting to regenerate, since less environmentally damaging methods have been introduced. The vegetation is starting to take hold and the trees are growing again!
Queenstown is now promoting itself as The Gateway to the Franklin-Lower Gordon Wild Waters National Park and the major tourist destination of Strahan. Why not base yourself here and start to explore. We set our van up at Queenstown Sports ground Freedom Camp. Better known as The Gravel, this historic oval was built in 1880 to withstand the high rainfall in the area. This unique football field is the only silica gravel oval in the world. Still in use today, it has been opened up to self contained grey nomads for camping. Using this as our base, we began to explore this area, firstly concentrating on lookouts.
Back on the Lyell Highway, near the ghost town of Gormanston is the Iron Blow Lookout, where you can take a short walk on an air walk over the old open cut mine. A little closer to town is another lookout on one of the many sharp bends, offering a welcoming sign indicating you are almost in Queenstown. The deserted locations of Gormanston and Linda offer not much more than photo opportunities, rabbits run randomly across the roads, and remains of some buildings can be seen amongst the shrubbery which is taking over the town. The abandoned Royal Hotel is a stand out feature as you drive through Linda. To the north of Queenstown on the Lyell Highway, is the Henty Glacial Moraine, an erratic conglomerate of stones left in position after glacial activity 34,600 years ago. In town is the Spion Kop Lookout, where after a very steep walk, you can appreciate 360° views over town. The lookout is named after the Battle of Spion Kop in South Africa, over 100 years ago.
A little further afield, along the Conlan Road to Mt Jukes and past the Queenstown Golf Course, you will find the junction of the King and Queen Rivers – where the copper coloured waters from the Queen mix with the brown waters of the King. The walk to the junction is not easy, in fact much of it is with the assistance of ropes, but is well worth facing the challenge. Set your GPS to S 42 09.186 E145 31.774 to find the track into the wilderness for this short well marked, but challenging 30 minute walk. Continue your drive along the Mt Jukes Road, past the Mt Huxley Lookout, to the man-made Lake Burbury.
In town, you can appreciate the history when viewing some of the local buildings. Dominating the streetscape is The Empire Hotel, built circa 1900, and one of the original 14 hotels in town. The magnificent staircase, now National Trust Listed, is built of locally sourced Tasmanian Blackwood which was shipped to England to be hand-carved and installed in the hotel in 1904. Other heritage buildings include the Paragon Theatre, a restored art deco cinema; the station masters house, in use until 1963, and the post office, built in 1902.
The town’s population may be growing smaller each year, but it has a fantastic feel to it. The locals are friendly and accommodating, and the town is the base for several tours, including the West Coast Wilderness Railway and Queenstown Heritage Tours.
ZEEHAN
If Queenstown is the opener, then Zeehan is definitely the main act! This small town, just off the Lyell Highway was – at the turn of the 20th century – Tasmania’s third largest town, with a population of 10,000, due the boom in mining; thirty years later, the ore began to run out putting the town into decline. Zeehan was one of the first towns in Australia to install electric street lighting.
The caravan park in Zeehan has recently changed hands. Ali and Clayton, the new owners, will welcome you to town like long lost friends. Settle yourself in the bushland setting for a couple of days while you get the feel of this town, and the surrounding drives. Make sure you visit the West Coast Heritage Centre – you will need anything from a good couple of hours to two days, fortunately, your ticket entry will allow you return during your stay in town. The centre covers around seven hectares with over 30 displays and exhibits, covering minerals, a pictorial history of the west, an underground mine simulation, a blacksmith shop, and the Gaiety Theatre which was built in 1898. The theatre is one of the town’s grandest buildings, along with the Zeehan School of Mines and Metallurgy building which has an interesting history and is now the doorway to this informative centre.
An interesting drive along Fowler Street, past the golf course, will take you to the Spray Tunnel. Once a tramway used by the British Zeehan Silver Mining Company to transport ore from the Spray mine, now a pretty picnic area and a lot of history thrown in. In 1908, this place would have been a hive of activity, in 2016, a quiet place of reflection on our past. Take a torch with you to walk through the tunnel.
About 20km to the west of Zeehan, along a good quality gravel road is the small fishing village of Trial Harbour. The road is in good condition; however, there is one major bend, just before town. It pays to leave your caravan in Zeehan. If you go, make sure you are fuelled up, and have your picnic lunch and drinks with you. There are no facilities here, apart from a ruggedly beautiful coastline, and a pretty “shackscape”; an eclectic mix of old and new. While you are there, check out the Trial Harbour History Room, a labour of love by Shirley and Brian Smith, who have lived in Trial Harbour on and off for 40 years. See their personal collection of photos, memorabilia and flotsam and jetsam from the sea. From the history room, take your 4WD a little further along Ernies Drive till you see the sign for Goat Rock. Park nearby and walk out to the coast to see the waves crashing over the rocks. Don’t forget your camera – but be prepared for a little salt spray. Ask Shirley for directions to the Ringing Rock, and see if you can spot the bicycle on the hill behind town!
STRAHAN
Strahan is another winning destination, accessible from either Queenstown or Zeehan, where the big ticket items start. A choice of river cruises on the Gordon River, the ABT Wilderness Railway, and the long running play “Ship That Never Was”. When you take the river cruise, you will be entertained on historic Sarah Island by the Round Earth players, who will also amuse you in the play later in the evening. At the Heritage Landing for around 30 minutes you will walk amongst world heritage listed rainforest of ancient Huon pines, myrtles and sassafras. You can choose between a full day or half day on the ABT Wilderness Rail, which also runs from Queenstown, and rattles through the mountains.
Spend some time at the Wilderness Woodworks where you can smell the Huon pine as you enter. The Woodworks are regarded as the finest Huon Pine turnery in the state. Behind the woodworks is the old Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill – see the mill at work, talk to Snowy about the history and check out the pictorial display.
Head down to Macquarie Harbour to see Hells Gate from a different angle to what you see on the boat cruise – you can walk there from the camping grounds. Hells Gate, not named for its ruggedness, but as it was the entry point to “hell on earth” for the convicts being sent to Sarah Island.
Strahan, once the port for the busy mining town of Queenstown, is now a tourism driven town and gateway to the wilderness.
ROSEBERY AND TULLAH
The mining villages of Rosebery and Tullah are only a short drive from Zeehan, are also gorgeous places to visit. Close to both are the beautiful Montezuma Falls, where after an easy 90 minute walk, you can see one of the highest waterfalls in Tasmania. The walking track follows the old tramway, part of which is evident by old sleepers on the track and an old railway bridge, now covered in moss. Rosebery, and the nearby Mt Black, is still active as a zinc mining town. It can claim a number of “high points” – it has the highest pose code in Tasmania, the steepest golf course, and the highest rainfall. Mt Black is the highest mountains in the southern hemisphere with trees at its summit.
At Tullah, look out for Wee Georgie Wood Steam Railway. You can take a short ride behind the 1924 steam locomotive, and check out their static display of other steam engines and locomotives. A freedom camp is available in the carpark for travellers.
From Tullah or Zeehan, take a drive down to Granville Harbour for your final destination. Like Trial Harbour, this rugged piece of wilderness has a few residents, mostly fisher folk, and numerous holiday shacks. The fishing is excellent; the 4WD drive along the beach is beautiful and the rugged coastline something to behold. There are not too many places on the west coast where you can taste the salt in the air like this one. There are no shops or facilities, but basic camping is allowed around the harbour.
Scientists have claimed that the cleanest air on earth is found on the West Coast of Tasmania. Come and taste the air, feel the difference of beautiful Tasmania.
