Northern Rivers, NSW

Evergreen and lush, the drive through mountain villages like Chillingham, Crystal Creek, Tyalgum and Uki carries you over an apparently endless array of breathtaking peaks and beautiful valleys, each adding another rainforest, woodland, or mountain heath swatch to an amazing patchwork quilt landscape.

However, my first stop brought to my mind Lilliput from Gulliver's Travels rather than the majesty of Conon Doyle's yarn. As if out of Swift's imagination, Crystal Creek Miniatures and Palmdale Stud is home to 100 miniature horses, cows and donkeys. The tour through it on their tractor-train is old-fashioned fun.

The trouble with motoring around the Northern Rivers hinterland is there is so much to see. After Crystal Creek it wasn't long before the nearby village of Chillingham had me stopping at Buck Buchanan's Banana Cabana and Bush Tucker Farm.

While the name promises something exotic, the first impression is that this is yet another roadside fruit stall in a bonny blink-or-you'll-miss-it mountain village. Take the time to stop here, the village is worthwhile. What's more, there's a chance you'll meet barefoot farmer Buck Buchanan.

Chat to Buck and discover the world of exotic fruits he grows on his bush tucker farm that include those you can use as natural herb tea, calmatives and antiseptics. He'll tell you about Davidson Plums – a native fruit great for sauces and jams, aniseed myrtle that makes wonderful ice-cream, or the alien-looking Buddha's hand together with native finger lime and the bush spinach called warrigal greens.

For the record, Buck says he wears shoes, "Only when I go to a wedding or a funeral". His feet are tough. He explained that apart from a porcupine he stood on once when returning from fishing, (and had him limping for days after), the only thing that has him looking for boots is Bindii. With that, Buck breaks away to explain to a customer down at his Banana Cabana that Neem Oil is best for keeping bugs off veggies.

After less than 30 minutes on the road, driving along the western border of the caldera, I found Tyalgum. This mountain village is a satisfying mix of curiosity and charm. I'm told that it’s fantastic natural acoustics have attracted some of Australia's best musicians to play in the historic Tyalgum town hall during the Festival of Classical Music each September. However, I was drawn downtown to explore the intriguing small collection of buildings that make up the rest of the main street, including a historic general store and garage.

Bush poet and local musician Dennis Scanlon was singing songs and telling yarns outside of Flutterbies Café. Here's the word, the other buildings are beaut but Flutterbies makes luscious Flutterbie cakes and homemade lemonade so yummy that once you know about them, you can't go past. So check out the rest of the town first.

On the slim chance that morning tea at Flutterbies doesn't satisfy you, then this part of the world has heaps of intriguing cafés and restaurants ripe for sampling. Continue through the caldera along the Mt Warning Road and try Mavis's Kitchen at Uki. This is an award-winning restaurant in an elegant old Queenslander with a remarkable view of Mt Warning and the surrounding World Heritage rainforest.

On the matter of food, consider taking a short drive south of Uki to the Byron Bay Hinterland town of Newrybar, where you'll find an excellent place called Harvest Café. Try goat's cheese terrine, tamarind mussels or sticky pork belly here. Antiques and bric-a-brac lovers should lunch at Harvest Café, if only because there is an interesting little antique shop across the road. You can't miss it thanks to a sign that says, 'Dead people's stuff now on sale'.

Try Ballina for great seafood and The Point restaurant with an upmarket menu that includes some flavoursome wines from Willow Lane Winery near Mudgee. While you're in the Byron Shire, drop into the heritage village of Bangalow. You might know it for its annual Billy Cart Festival in May. With or without a billy cart, it's worth the visit if you're interested in weekend markets. The Bangalow markets are every fourth Sunday and there is a farmers' market every Saturday morning.

If you feel like driving further, try poking around Alstonville. Here is a hinterland town surrounded by an exceptional number of cosy bed and breakfasts. If you are looking for a night away from camping in your caravan or motorhome, then consider Pines on the Plateau. It's a regular home away from home. In a landscape renowned for the food it grows, you need to know where to dine out, and the Alstonville pick is the Il Postino Restaurant.

Take it from me, when there is so much to see and do, it's nice to make it back to your camp and enjoy peace and quiet. On this trek, I set up camp away from the mountains in the quiet coastal town of Brunswick Heads. Here the riverside Massey Greene Holiday Park was home.

Although Brunswick Heads has a stunning beach, safe river and wonderful little cafés like the Happy Dolphin, for me it was my starting point for my next adventure exploring the Northern Rivers coastal trail. But that's a yarn about another world for another day.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Ballina Visitor Information Centre: River St & Las Balsas Pl, Ballina (02) 6686 3484 www.discoverballina.com

Casino Visitor Information Centre: Centre St, Casino (02) 6662 3566 www.visitrichmondvalley.com.au

Lismore Visitor Information Centre: Corner Ballina Rd & Molesworth St 1300 369 795 www.visitlismore.com.au

Kyogle Visitor Information Centre: Summerland way, Kyogle (02) 6632 2700 www.visitkyogle.com.au

Murwillumbah Visitor Information Centre: Alma St & Tweed Valley Way, (02) 6672 1340 www.tweedtourism.com.au

Tweed Heads Visitor Information Centre: Corner Wharf and Bay St 1800 674 414 www.tweedtourism.com.au

FREEBIES

FISHING: Fishing is a major drawcard in Ballina and Brunswick Heads. For Stillwater shore or boat fishing, try Clarrie Hall Dam (electric motors only), just west of Uki or Toonumbar Dam, west of Kyogle, which has an excellent camping area and boat ramp and plenty of bass, thanks to a stocking program by the local fishing club. Please note fishing licences are required for recreational fishing in NSW.

BUSHWALK: Bushwalk through many national parks and reserves in the region including the Border Ranges National Park.

MOVIES: Watch free movies from April to October in the pub garden Brunswick Heads.

MARKETS: Visit the Bangalow Markets every fourth Sunday and the Farmers Markets every Saturday.

BIRD WATCH: Pick up a birdwatching brochure at the local Visitor Information Centre and head off with your binoculars.

TOURIST DRIVES: Visit hinterland villages and find hidden treasures such as art galleries and coffee shops, or drive one of the loops of the Rainforest Way to visit rainforest.

RETAIL THERAPY: Discover arts and crafts in Alstonville, Lismore, Stokers Siding, or Mullumbimby, or antique treasures and bric-a-brac in Bangalow, Ulmarra or Uki.

CHILLINGHAM BUSHTUCKER 1292 Numinbah Rd, Chillingham Free entry (an organised tour for bus groups etc is $5 a head) Open seven days (02) 6679 1022 www.chillinghambushtucker.com.au

CHEAP TREATS

Tour Crystal Creek Miniatures $15 adults/$10 children Open Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Open seven days during holidays. For bookings phone (02) 6679 1532 www.minianimals.net

ART: Regional art galleries are located at Grafton, Lismore and Murwillumbah (However, there are many small galleries in the towns and villages throughout the Northern Rivers)

CRAWFORD HOUSE: The Museum is located in a restored Federation house featuring many household objects dating from the turn of the century to 1960. Displays change throughout the year. Open 10am to 4pm Fridays and 1pm to 4pm Sundays or by appointment. Entry Fee $2 10 Wardell Road Alstonville (02) 6628 1557

MAVIS'S KITCHEN: Open lunch: Wednesday to Sunday from 11am. Dinner: Friday and Saturday from 5.30pm Dinner from $18.50 for mains 64 Mt Warning Road, Uki (02) 6679 5664

II POSTINO RESTAURANT: Average price for entree and main – $45 86 Main St, Alstonville (02) 6628 3333

HARVEST CAFÉ: Breakfast from $7.50 Kid's breakfast from $5 Average price for lunch $16 Kid's lunch from $5 18 Old Pacific Hwy, Newrybar (02) 6687 2644

PLACES TO STAY

Mt Warning Holiday Park 153 Mt Warning Road, Mt Warning (02) 66795120

Massey Greene Holiday Park Tweed Street, Brunswick Heads (02)66851329 www.northcoastparks.com.au/massey

Ballina Lakeside Holiday Park Fenwick Drive, Ballina (02) 6686 3953 www.ballinalakeside.com.au

Toonumbar National Park

On the Richmond Range in the far northeast of NSW, about 810km from Sydney and 145km from Brisbane. Leave the Summerland Way at Kyogle and travel west via Afterlee and the Toonumbar Forest Drive, a gravel road 15km east of Urbenville and 35km west of Kyogle. The park is 90km from Lismore and 120km from Murwillumbah. Road quality: unpaved sections.

Sheep Station Creek Camping Area Border Ranges National Park

A popular spot that is ideal for families. For the walker there is a network of tracks that radiate out from the rest areas. The Booyong Walk, starting at Sheep Station Creek Camping Area, connects with Forest Tops Camping Area. Other walks are the Palm Forest Walk that starts from Sheep Station Creek Camping Area, and the Rosewood Loop which branches off from the Booyong Walk about one-third of the way. Border Ranges National Park is 38km west of Murwillumbah, off the Murwillumbah-Kyogle Road.