The Mighty Murray
23 June 2011
From my vantage point I look straight across the glassy waters of the Murray to the far bank and the beautiful paddle steamer PS Melbourne. Just moments ago she announced her arrival with three long blasts of her steam horn before gracefully coming about to pull alongside the old wooden wharf. Conjuring thoughts of slower days when people worked to a much more relaxed pace, the Melbourne sits proudly against the dock as more eager passengers step forward for their turn to take a ride back into history.
A few years back we stopped in at Mildura on our way from Alice to Sydney. On that occasion though, time meant we only had one night to look around. In the few hours we did spend exploring, we discovered Mildura was more than we had expected. Good restaurants, beautiful architecture, wineries, art and, of course, that river. And all only a stone’s throw from the great Aussie outback. So, this time and with a few weeks up our sleeve, we were determined to take in all that this inland oasis had on offer.
First settled in 1887 as an irrigation area, Mildura was a result of the 1877 – 1884 drought. Alfred Deakin, a minister in the State Government and chairman of a Royal Commission on water supply enlisted the help of Californian brothers George and William Chaffey to create a permanent irrigation area for the region. These men are remembered today by many of the town’s streets and landmarks being named in their honour.
The post war years saw migrants from all over Europe settle in the area for its rich grape growing soil and Mediterranean climate. Their influence can be seen in the many vineyards, orchards and olive groves that surround the town.
The wineries that dot the region boast some impressive heritage too, household names to boutique labels found on the tables of some of the best restaurants in Australia and around the world. Winery tours are a big part of any trip into the region so, if you like your wines, be sure to check some out.
Along with these wineries the region also prides itself on its fresh and dried fruit industries. Travelling about the area you will see many orchards with timber racks packed with all kinds of fruit being allowed to dry under the warmth of the Sunraysia sky.
Getting into a bit of that local gear is something not to be missed either because, if you are like me and love a good feed, you will find eating out in Mildura is a food lover’s fantasy. The top of the town boasts many top class hotels and eateries mostly focused around Seventh St, colloquially known as Feast St, and the Mildura Grand Hotel and Brewery.
Dining in the Grand’s Pizza Café you can sit down to some fabulous Italian cuisine made from fresh local fair and accompany it with some of the region’s exquisite local wine. In fact, just a stroll around the few streets that surround The Grand will yield cuisine from all over the world that will suit any pallet or indeed, any budget.
The Mighty Murray is still the focal point for most visitors though. In its heyday, Mildura hummed to the rhythm of the river with its ornate steam powered paddle boats carrying goods and passengers to and from other ports along the Murray and Darling Rivers.
Today that tradition has long past but you can still experience life on an original paddle steamer in Mildura. The PS Melbourne runs tours twice a day from the heritage listed wharf only a stone’s throw from down town Mildura. Travelling down through ‘Lock 11’, one of the 13 Weir/Lock arrangements that harness the Murray, you get to see Alfred and George’s vision and just how the pioneers opened up the area. It’s an experience in itself.
If fishing is your thing then they are here in abundance, from silver and golden perch to the iconic Murray cod. Even the much maligned European carp is good fun for kids (and big kids) when the more edible natives aren’t about. Be aware though, the Murray comes under NSW jurisdiction so for those anglers over 18, you are expected to pay the NSW Recreational Fishing Fee. Head down town to one of the local fishing or outdoor outlets and get set up with your licence and some fresh worms or yabbies.
Mildura lies on the edge of the great Australian outback. Heading west out of town toward Wentworth, just a few kilometres beyond the orchard and vineyard-lined river you begin to see the flat scrubby desert country the outback is famous for.
Wentworth would be best known as the place where the Murray and Darling Rivers converge but it is in fact the oldest settlement in the area predating Mildura by more than 25 years. At one time, such was its importance to the region, it was only out-sized as a cargo port by Sydney. Strolling through the quiet streets today will reward you with many historic sites as well as cafés and small art and craft galleries.
Just a short drive west from Wentworth along the Old Renmark Rd you will find the remarkable Perry Sand Hills. Apparently formed after the last ice age, the dunes that make up the Perry Sand Hills appear a bit out of place in the middle of what seems to be a flood plain but that is partly what makes this place so special. Despite covering only 160 hectares, the Sand Hills are a superb place to picnic and explore.
There is a small information bay and a couple of toilets located on the road side of the dunes. Provided you are in a 4WD you can circumnavigate the dunes along the sandy track that impounds them. Stopping along the way to admire the ‘sandscapes’ or to climb to the top of a dune makes for an interesting hour or two. Not a huge climb, but one that will reward you with panoramic views of the dunes and the surrounding plains.
Another superb day trip from Mildura, or better still as an overnighter, is to head the 100km north to Mungo National Park. The Arumpo Rd, a wide, well-maintained dirt road takes you from the Silver City Hwy just north of Buronga to Mungo and the start of a scenic trail that takes you through the Park’s landscapes.
As you enter the Park there is an art gallery and a camp ground. A bit further on, find a very informative Visitors Centre and a huge old shearing shed that houses some relics from the past. Built when the park was part of Gol Gol Station, the shed is a magnificent example of the craftsmanship of the day, and the smell of lanolin still present in the timbers.
MungoNational Park is a geologist and historian’s Mecca with its spectacular lunar landscape, characterised by the dramatic ‘lunette’ known as the “Walls of China”. This crescent shaped dune runs along what was the eastern shoreline of a fresh water lake that has documented indigenous habitation for over 40,000 years. The sunset over the lunette is not to be missed.
Mildura is a thriving modern metropolis these days with all the trappings of any Aussie city or town. But while we sometimes go out of our way to avoid the big towns and the hustle and bustle that goes with them, no traveller should ever mistake Mildura for just another impersonal ‘big smoke’.
Mildura oozes friendship, charm and has the sort of vibrant atmosphere that makes you just want to be there. If it’s not the ambience of a fine restaurant then it will be time out down on the riverbank watching the paddle steamers slide on by. In fact, the only real problem we footloose have in Mildura is finding that reason to leave.
WHERE WE STAYED
BURONGARIVERSIDE CARAVAN PARK
A lovely, pet-friendly park directly opposite the old port of Mildura. Shady sites, clean and modern amenities, friendly hosts and tranquil surrounds. You’d be hard pressed finding a nicer base than at the Buronga Riverside Caravan Park. West Rd, Buronga NSW Just over the Chaffey Bridge from Mildura Ph/Fax (03) 5023 3040.
info@burongacaravanpark.com.au
http://burongacaravanpark.webs.com/
Hosts; Clinton and Gay Trood.
Pwd sites from $24/night Unpwd from $19/night, (less for Family parks discount or seniors.)
Washing Machines $3, Dryers $2.
CHEAP TREATS
WOODSIES GEM SHOP
Fine jewellery, café, rare gem collection, hedge maze and more. 9am – 5:30pm, 7 days Cnr Morpung & Cureton Ave Nichols Point VIC 3501, (03) 50245797.
MILDURA ARTS CENTRE
The premier Arts venue in the north-west region of Victoria. 10am – 5pm 7 days 199 Cureton Ave Mildura VIC 3505, (03) 5018 8330.
THE WORKING MAN’S CLUB
It’s a great place to grab lunch or dinner. 90-124 Deakin Ave Mildura VIC 3500, (03) 5023 0531.
FREEBIES
MILDURA JAZZ, FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL
Held around the last weekend in October. Enjoy a wonderful array of jazz talent plus some fantastic local food & wine.
LOCK 11 Located amongst beautiful picnic grounds, Mildura’s Lock 11 offers visitors a close up look at an operating Murray River Lock. Time your visit with the arrival of the PS Melbourne and watch how it’s been done for over a century.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Recreational Fishing Fee; http://new.dpi.vic.gov.au/fisheries/recreational-fishing/fishing-licence
GETTING THERE
Mildura is approximately 417km from Adelaide via the Sturt Hwy. From Melbourne, Mildura is approximately 547km north-west along the Calder Hwy and Sturt Hwy.
WORDS BY GREG JOSEPHSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROGER DARK, GREG JOSEPHSON, TOURISM NSW & SIMON BAYLISS
