Knockin' round Narribri

Mt Kaputar looms majestically in the background of Narrabri in Namoi Valley, NSW’s northwest. According to locals, the mountain looks exactly the same from any angle.

The Mt Kaputar National Park and Nandewar Ranges are skeletons of erupting volcanoes from about 17 to 21 million years ago. Today, these remnants have created the beautiful areas of Narrabri and its surrounds. It’s so pretty in fact that Mt Kaputar was last year voted as the number-one natural wonder in NSW by ABC Sydney radio.

Take the Summit Walk, a 2km, approximately 1.5-hour walk of medium difficulty to see the extent of the park, Narrabri, and at least 10% of NSW on a good, clear day.

The Newell and Kamilaroi highways run through Narrabri, making it an ideal stopover on the way to Lightning Ridge, about three hours further up the road. It’s a large country town, and while it sounds cliché to say it, it’s true – Narrabri has some of that great Aussie country hospitality we’ve come to love.

The driving tour of Narrabri or the historical walk gives you just a taste of what it has to offer. The Narrabri Art and Craft Society is housed in one of Narrabri’s earliest residences. The shop and gallery are perfect if you want to see the talent of the locals. Visit the Old Gaol turned museum and learn about the history of the town and the gaol itself. Don’t forget to stop off at the Police Residence, Courthouse and the Clerk of Petty Sessions (the old courthouse) for some great 19th century architecture.

What about some different architecture? Huge white discs point up to the sky beaming radio waves from Earth. No, this is not a scene from Lost in Space, but rather the Australia Telescope Compact Array.

About 25km west of Narrabri stands a group of six huge telescopes designed to take images of space visible light cannot see. The Information Centre is open every day from 8am to 4pm but is unmanned. Don’t forget to turn off your phone when visiting this awe-inspiring place. It interferes with the radio waves and can ruin pictures months in the making.

WEE WAA

Wee Waa is the birthplace of Australia’s modern cotton industry and was also the first town settled along the Namoi River, established in 1837. Wee Waa was originally built as a centre for justice before becoming an agricultural town. A stop at the Namoi Echo Museum is a must to learn more of Wee Waa’s fascinating history.

YarrieLakeis nearby and a very interesting place to visit. Thanks to what is believed to be a meteor, Yarrie Lake is a perfectly circular disc-shaped lake. The water is a very unusual colour and it is a popular site for birdwatching and water activities. Be careful, though, the deepest it gets is just 2m.

PILLIGA

About an hour drive west of Narrabri past Wee Waa is Pilliga, once an important stop on the Cobb and Co route, but now vehicles and caravans have replaced horses and wagons. The town is now known for its Artesian Bore Baths. The baths are 37 degrees year round and the mineral water is great to help you relax after a long drive.

The Artesian Bore is also a great free camp spot. There are toilets, BBQs and the pub is only 3km away. There is no petrol in Pilliga, so make sure you fill up at Wee Waa or Narrabri.

Pilliga is also home to some spooky paranormal activity. The Pilliga Princess is meant to haunt the Newell Highway at night and yowies reportedly make their home in the Pilliga Forest. But don’t be afraid to explore the forest, as there are some fantastic tracks and Salt Caves near a great picnic spot. All roads in the forest are unsealed, so check with the National Parks and Wildlife Service on (02) 6792 7300 for conditions and yowie sightings first.

BOGGABRI

On the way to Boggabri from Narrabri (about 56km east along the Kamilaroi Highway), make sure you stop for the striking rock face of Gin’s Leap. The name came from Romeo and Juliet-esque origins where two young Aboriginal lovers from different tribes jumped off the rock together rather than be apart. The first European to cross into the area was escaped convict George ‘The Barber’ Clarke, who lived with the indigenous people of the area. When he was captured, he talked of a great inland sea in the area. Explorers set out to find that sea, and of course, they didn’t find it.

They did discover fertile plains suitable for agriculture. You can see Barbers Lagoon and Barbers Pinnacle – the site of Clarke’s home – on Manilla Road, just north of Boggabri. Back in town, stop in for a bite to eat at the Boggabri Tearooms before exploring this great little town. Make sure you taste the local Nelson’s Honey. Sourced from white and yellow box and Ironbark from the Pilliga Scrub, the honey is delicious and definitely worth buying. Boggabri is also home to the Drovers Campfire, where hundreds of RVs make their way to the showground each year for a great country festival. Boggabri, Narrabri and Wee Waa are RV Friendly Towns and have plenty of facilities.

CHEAP TREATS

GYPSY WILLOW MARKETS

Pick up some great local produce and arts and crafts. First Saturday of every month, Cameron Park, Narrabri from 9am.

NELSON’S HONEY FACTORY

One of NSW’s largest honey suppliers. Open for sales and free tours by appointment. 66 Lynn Street Boggabri. You won’t miss the letterbox! Ring first on (02) 6743 4388.

NAMOIECHO MUSEUM

Adults $5.50, school-aged children $1. Open on the first and fourth Wednesday of every month 10am – 2pm, Thursday 11am – 2pm, Friday 10am – 2pm and Saturday 10am – 4pm. Rose Street, Wee Waa.

NARRABRIOLD GAOL MUSEUM

Open 11am – 3pm Saturday and Sunday. Corner of Barwan and Bowen Streets, Narrabri.

If the beauty of Narrabri and the Namoi Valley isn’t enough for you to go visit these great towns, then the history, people and plenty of attractions will do it for you. You can relax in the mineral baths of the Artesian Bore, see huge telescopes pointing up into a starry, starry night and hear about the colourful history of the towns. And don’t worry, those yowies don’t bite.

MT KAPUTAR NP

Caravans and motorhomes are not allowed into the Mt Kaputar NP as the road is very narrow. They can be taken to Sawn Rocks, but overnight stays aren’t permitted.

PLACES TO STAY

BIGSKYCARAVAN PARK11–35 Tibbereena Street Narrabri, 2390 (02) 6792 1294 E: bigskycp@bigpond.com www.bigskycaravanpark.com.au

WAIOMA CARAVAN PARK 15 Short Street Wee Waa, 2388 (02) 6795 4413 E: waioma.park@westnet.com.au

BOGGABRI CARAVAN PARK Laidlaw Street Boggabri, 2832 (02) 6743 4555 PILLIGA PUB Dangar Street Pilliga, 2388 (02) 6796 4320 E: enquiries@pilligapub.com.au

PILLIGA HOT ARTESIAN BORE BATHS Primitive Campgrounds Pilliga Road Pilliga, 2388 (02) 6799 6760

GETTING THERE

Narrabri is on the junction of the Newell and Kamilaroi highways, about 510km from Sydney and 580km from Brisbane on sealed roads. The Kamilaroi runs from Willow Tree, south of Tamworth through to Bourke, while the Newell runs from Tocumwal to Goondiwindi, just past Moree.

WORDS BY SARAH TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY SIMON BAYLISS, BRUCE MALCOLM, THE NARRABRI SHIRE AND TOURISM NSW