It’s All About The River

It seems the Murray Darling river system is always in the news these days, for good or ill. Declining water flows, increased demands for irrigation, arguments over water rights and interstate squabbles over water supply and access are all splashed across the nation’s media. Arguments notwithstanding, this media attention demonstrates the importance of the system to Australia.

We should never underestimate that importance. The system links four states in an artery of fresh water that has been the basis for the development of vast tracts of Australia. In short, the Murray Darling system is the lifeblood of the country, and nowhere is that more in evidence than in Mildura.

Mildura is the major inland city on the Murray, perhaps with the exception of Albury/Wodonga in the east. It lies at the junction of the Calder, Sturt and Silver City highways, and is just upstream from the Murray/Darling junction at Wentworth in NSW. It’s the hub of a major fruit and grape-growing industry and is a sprawling, busy, interesting city.

Back in 1830, Captain Charles Sturt arrived in the region exploring the river systems and shortly after squatters arrived and introduced sheep and cattle to the area. But Mildura’s story really began following a major drought lasting from 1877 until 1884. The drought prompted then minister Alfred Deakin to investigate the success of irrigation in California. There he met the Chaffey brothers, and in 1886 George Chaffey came to Australia to establish the first irrigation settlement on an abandoned sheep run at Mildura. From that point there was no turning back. Mildura sprouted on the back of irrigation from the Murray and it continues to grow to this day.

For RV tourers Mildura has plenty to offer, and the good thing is it’s within easy reach of Melbourne and Adelaide, and not all that far from Sydney. As usual, the first place in any town a traveller should visit is the Tourist Information Centre, and the Mildura centre, on Deakin Avenue and Twelfth Street, is a beaut. Here you can load up on local maps (you’ll need them) and get up-to-date information on attractions and events.

No matter what your interest, though, you can bet that most of it is centred on the Murray. In Mildura, the river level is maintained by a series of locks designed to both maintain river levels and to allow safe passage of vessels.

Lock 11 is accessible via Hugh King Drive, which runs along the southern bank downstream from the big Chaffey Bridge. The lock opens four times daily and it’s interesting to see how the operation works. Try to time your visit for when a paddleboat is passing through (the scheduled 11am operation brought the PS Melbourne through, heading downstream). The grounds around the lock have been well maintained and it’s a pleasant place for a cuppa.

If you are into waterbirds, watch the actions of the pelicans and gulls as the lock opens. The churning water seems to partly stun small fish such as bony bream, and the birds know this. They wait until the water begins to flow, then pounce.

Upstream from the lock on Hugh King Drive is the Mildura Wharf, the centre of paddleboat operations on this part of the Murray. The beautifully restored boats bring a touch of the romance of the age of steam, when these boats were the major form of transport. You can imagine steam tugs hauling barges loaded with produce, and the more luxurious steamers cruising sedately along, their decks crowded with the gentry. You can still hear the hiss of steam, the hoot of the whistles and the rhythmic churning of the big wooden paddles. The tourist centre will provide you with details of river tours on these wonderful old boats.

Downstream from Lock 11, off Cureton Avenue, you’ll find the Old Mildura Homestead complex. This is a replica of the original buildings and the complex houses a number of attractions – the homestead, a big shearing shed, and tucked away in a corner are the bones of an old paddle steamer ready for restoration (They’ve got a long way to go!). The grounds are pleasant and there are picnic tables and toilets handy. And of course the mighty Murray oozes along right beside the complex. It’s never far away.

One thing you’ll notice on the river is the number of houseboats moored by the banks. There are dozens of them, and for a change of pace from RV touring, hire a houseboat for a few days. Can you imagine waking up with the birds on a glass calm river, far from the madding crowds, maybe sipping a cup of your favourite coffee as the sun rises, or casting a line for a yellowbelly? Heaven.

If you can tear yourself away from the river, take a wander through the city CBD. You won’t find too many really old buildings, but the streets are an attraction in themselves. They are beautifully wide, with lovely trees on the park-like median strips, and the city has everything an RV tourer could possibly need. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants, supermarkets, RV repairers and accessories should you need them.

One building that does stand out is the Grand Hotel on Seventh Street. It’s an eye-catching building that conjures up visions of top hats, flowing gowns, and the days of landed gentry. And it’s across the road from the river, of course.

The Mildura wharf and lock precinct is surrounded on both sides of the river by parklands, and there are a number of walks throughout the parks should you feel the need to walk off lunch.

What about caravan parks? There are plenty to choose from, but two that caught my eye were the Apex Riverbeach at the end of Cureton Avenue, and the Buronga Riverside, West Road Buronga NSW. Both these parks are right on the river. At Buronga you could cast a line from your caravan on one of the riverside sites.

Speaking of fishing, golden perch (or yellowbelly) and Murray cod are the two popular recreational species, though one of the locals told me that silver perch were making a comeback. Fishing is very popular for locals and travellers, and there is nothing better than lazing away a sunny Sunday afternoon on the Murray. Who cares if you don’t catch a fish?

There are a few interesting things to see just outside the Mildura urban area. Upstream, on the way to Red Cliffs off Cureton Avenue, you’ll find Kings Billabong reserve and the Psyche Bend historic pumping station.

The Kings Billabong Reserve is a haven for wildlife, and throughout the reserve there are walks so you can enjoy the billabong’s birdlife. The Psyche Bend pumping station is classified by the National Trust and housed the oldest pump configuration of its type in the world. It’s open Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. Take a tip here. The access road is dirt and cuts up after rain. In fact, in the wet it would be difficult for two-wheel-drive vehicles. And leave the van in the caravan park!

Not far from Psyche Bend is the region’s oldest winery, Chateau Mildura, where they produce their famous Psyche wines. This is an interesting winery to visit as it maintains a museum chock full of old barrels, machinery, and a host of fascinating artefacts. The buildings and cottage are all fascinating, and the wines? Very smooth.

Red Cliffs, to the south of Mildura, is a pleasant town with one big claim to fame – Big Lizzie. She is an absolutely enormous machine built to clear the mallee scrub in the region for the soldier settlers after the First World War. This thing is enormous, and it’s unlike anything you’ve seen on your travels before.

Mildura and its surrounding areas make a top destination for RV tourers. There are loads of things to see and do, but you’ll always be aware that the river is not too far away. The region survives because of the Murray, and its future is tied to the big river.

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIL SCHOTT