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Touring the Wheat Belt

25 June 2012

From natural rock wonders to quirky sculptures and everything in between, the small wheat town of Wudinna offers big experiences

Wudinna's European history dates back to the 1860s, but the town itself came to life just after WWI. The prospect of good farming land attracted many to try their hand. Nearly a century on, we take a look at what Wudinna and the surrounding district has to offer visitors.

Travelling along the Eyre Highway, one of the first sights Wudinna offers the weary traveller will no doubt be the 8m Australian Farmer sculpture. Carved from the locally abundant material of granite, this impressive monument was created by Croatian artist, Marijan Bekic. The nearby towering wheat silos provide an appropriate backdrop.

The monument's northern side pays tribute to the women on the land and the southern face does the same for the men. While its head depicts a representation of the sun, you may notice the missing grain, illustrating the hardship caused by ruined crops in times of drought.

Each of the four base walls carry the various family and sponsor names that helped pay for the construction. To further appreciate this clever rock carving, call into the information centre next door.

Many granite rocky outcrops are scattered amongst the typical mallee type bushland which showcases the natural flora and fauna of the area. Polda, Turtle and Pygery are just some of the names given to these smaller examples. But it's Mount Wudinna that impresses most visitors, rising 261m. Located just 10km north east of Wudinna, it is South Australia's largest rock monolith.

Despite its size being severely dwarfed by the Northern Territory's iconic Uluru, you'll find climbing Mt Wudinna far less challenging and entry is free. Camping is not permitted but on a clear day the 360° view on offer sure makes up for it.

Wudinna's neighbouring town, Minnipa, has its own impressive rock 16km north of the town centre. The wave shaped walls of Pildappa Rock reveal a kaleidoscope of colours. Stained black from water flow, the red stone also has a touch of green lichen for contrast. For those seeking a picturesque free camp, the spacious area right at Pildappa's base fits the bill.

Walking to the top is easy, you may even spot the geranium bush planted in 1938 by the local Swaterski Sisters. No permits are needed, but do take care on the dirt track after rain. Further to the north are the Gawler Ranges. We had the best intentions of spending the day driving around this National Park, but due to recent heavy rains the roads were extremely muddy and slippery. Locals advised us to leave it until dryer conditions prevailed to enjoy such sights as the Organ Pipe rock formation.

When passing through Minnipa keep an eye out for the rather unusual concrete monument on the main highway. It's hard to miss due to its evocative name emblazoned across the structure.

Continuing the sightseeing trail in improved weather, the next day we located Ucontitchie Hill just 30km south-west of Wudinna. Despite it being only 37m high, the various rock shapes caused by internal erosion of the granite will make for interesting and unique holiday photography. It has a wave formation similar to Pildappa Rock and Western Australia's aptly named Wave Rock. Please respect the private land you are on by closing the gates after passing through them.

After all this sightseeing, walking and photography I would strongly recommend a country pub meal at the Wudinna Hotel on Burton Terrace. The service by the staff is second to none. If a pie or pastry is more to your liking, the bakery on Ballantyne Street is well worth checking out.

Opposite the bakery is a small sculpture called Gus the farmer. Carved out of a rich, red timber with a chainsaw, it makes for a fun photo opportunity with the kids.

Local identity and council chairperson, Tim Scholz, took us for a tour of the town. He proudly pointed out some of the town projects such as the $1.2 million medical centre adjacent to the hospital and 22 million litre local dam. Even the airport runway is being upgraded to cater for larger aircraft bringing in workers for local mines.

With typical country hospitality, Tim and his lovely wife Janine invited us back to their home for a meal. After speaking with them, I got the sense this community looks at things with a 'glass half full' mentality.

Although landlocked, Wudinna offers excellent fishing within an hour drive to the west. Streaky Bay, Venus Bay and Port Kenny are all wonderful fishing havens for the person wanting to wet a line. In addition, further to the south, Elliston also provides excellent facilities.

If fishing isn't your game, try the Great Ocean Tourist drive just north of Elliston on a sunny afternoon. This short dirt loop road is easily accessible with a family sedan. If you can take your eyes away from the scenery you will see the odd quirky sculpture or two along the way. From large rock heads to a giant pair of thongs, there are some truly unique and quirky sculptures.

There are many options when it comes to caravan parks in the area but I would suggest staying at Wudinna's Gawler Ranges Motel and Caravan Park. It isn't as busy or crowded as others and offers excellent large drivethrough sites.

Basing ourselves in Wudinna, we were fortunate enough to time our visit with that of the Model A Ford club. Although pushing 80 years old, some of these delightfully restored cars also managed to pull small camper trailers – one was even colour matched to the car! Adelaide members, Do and Ros Cresshull, informed us the club has over 60 members. Their bright red 1929 two-door roadster, named Miss Daisy, even carried a modern camp fridge on its rear bumper. Don said, "Some members opted to bed down on the road to Mt Wudinna but may have got bogged". I didn't hear how they fared in the conditions, but I'm sure these small but classy vehicles made it.

If you have a few days to spare when heading to or from the Nullarbor, I'd suggest spending them exploring Wudinna and its surrounds. You will be pleasantly surprised by what it has to offer from its early wheat farming history to its natural rock formations and its truly unique sculptures.

GETTING THERE

Wudinna is located on the Eyre Highway between Ceduna and Port Augusta.

Adelaide to Wudinna is approximately 569km via the Eyre Highway.

Port Augusta to Wudinna is 258km via the Eyre Highway.

Port Lincoln to Wudinna is 212km via the Tod and Eyre Highways.

FREE ACTIVITIES

MT WUDINNA – South Australia's largest monolith.

PILDAPPA ROCK – Easy to climb and a brilliant free camping location.

AUSTRALIAN FARMER MONUMENT – A granite sculpture paying respect to the pioneers that built this wheat town.

UCONTITCHIE HILL – Keen photographers will love the unusual and unique rock erosion.

GREAT OCEAN DRIVE – Offers fantastic coastal views near Elliston.

FISHING – Plenty of potential spots to wet a line within an hour’s drive of Wudinna.