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The Clarence River region in northern NSW is a must-see for RV tourers.

Words and photography by Gil Schott

There are ‘bigs’ all around this country of ours; big bananas, big pineapples, big prawns, but where natural features are concerned, there is only one big river – the Clarence in northern NSW. Yeah, okay, I know there are bigger rivers inland and in the northern tropics, but as far as coastal rivers south of Capricorn go, the Clarence really is Big River Country.

The Clarence drains a vast catchment, from the Queensland border west to the back of Stanthorpe, south along the divide to Ebor and east to the back of Coffs Harbour. That’s a heck of a big slice of northern NSW. There are two main centres in big river country, Grafton, the centre of the region, and Maclean, a little further downstream.

Grafton is the major regional city in Big River Country, the centre of the dairying, sugar and mixed agricultural activities in the area. It was declared a municipality in 1859 and there are some lovely old buildings highlighting the historical nature of the city. But Grafton is probably better known for two other features, the magnificent jacarandas that adorn the streets and parks, and the famous ‘bendy’ bridge over the Clarence joining Grafton and South Grafton.

Grafton’s fabulous Jacaranda Festival is held on during the week following the last Saturday in October each year, with the city ablaze with the vivid lilac/blue blooms and activities happening throughout the week.

The ‘bendy’ bridge was opened in July 1932 and is unique in that it is a double deck construction, with the rail line on the lower deck and the road on the upper deck, joining at an angle at each end – the ‘bendy’ bit.

There are galleries, antique shops, museums, entertainment venues, restaurants and a heap of other attractions in this large and attractive city. The tourist centre at South Grafton (opposite the Golden Arches) is the place to stop for all the latest visitor information.

What about the countryside west of the Big River towns? A short cruise north of Grafton up the Summerland Way to Warragai Creek will give you an idea of the extent of the river plains to the west, with the timbered mountainous country of the upper reaches crowding in behind. You can also take a drive from Grafton along Queen St, following the northern bank of the river to the village of Lawrence. It’s a neat little town perched on the junction of the Clarence and Sportsman’s Creek. There’s a 24hr ferry across the river to Woodford Island and on to Maclean if you choose to go that way

From South Grafton you can follow the Gwydir Highway out into the river headwaters and eventually on to Glen Innes. Along this road you’ll get a taste of some of the great national parks of the region. It’s an area of dense forest, wild rivers and even wilder country. The wild Nymboida is a white water rafting Mecca (and there’s not too many of those in Australia). The upper Clarence and tributaries are home to the Australian bass and the rare and mysterious eastern cod. The spectacular Washpool, Gibraltar Range and Nymboida national parks protect some of Australia’s most magical rainforest country and wild rivers. Further south the Guy Fawkes River and Chaelundi National Parks offer more spectacular country.

About 7km west of South Grafton you can turn off the Gwydir at Waterview Heights, following Rogan Bridge Road to Copmanhurst. It’s a small village about 25km north west of Grafton and the drive there will take you through ever more timbered and hilly country, in stark contrast to the flat floodplains to the east of Grafton. Along the way you’ll cross the Rogan Bridge over the Clarence, which is still a substantial waterway up here. It’s one of those bridges where you have to reassess your knowledge of how wide your vehicle or rig is. There are no rails, just a raised lip or gutter of concrete. Once you reach Copmanhurst you can take a break at the Rest Point hotel before you return to Grafton.

To the east of Grafton the countryside is totally different. You’re in floodplain country. As you leave Grafton and head north-east towards Maclean on the Pacific Highway, call in at the riverside village of Ulmarra. Here you’ll find some beaut old buildings (especially the pub) alongside the river.

Around 40km from Grafton, Maclean is a beaut little town on the Clarence and is known as the Scottish town. Hoots Mon, even the telly poles wear tartan here. Maclean is an old riverport and once supported a shipyard. It’s now home base for a substantial portion of the Clarence fishing fleet and through the restoration of many older buildings alongside the river it retains an air of the olden days.

Maclean is smack in the middle of the sugar cane area of the lower Clarence and as you tour around you pass through vast areas under tall cane. The mill at Harwood, on the north bank of the river, is a landmark in the area. Maclean has some interesting galleries, craft shops and a beaut museum, all with a touch of the Scottish. When we were last there the ‘clan’ had gathered in the main street in their tartans, tempting passers by to taste the local breakfast haggis (I think it’s an acquired taste). While you’re there, take the drive along Wharf St up Maclean Hill. Before you reach the summit you’ll see the Pinnacle, a cluster of boulders stacked one atop the other. From the lookout at the top there’s panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, from the mountains to the southwest out across the plains to the coast, the rivers and the lakes.

To the east of Maclean the countryside rolls into the lower Clarence estuary and the coast. Broom’s Head is one of those forgotten coastal gems that all too rarely exist along our coastline – lovely beaches, rocks formations and a really laid back feel. Oh, and there are fish there, too. It’s about 20km from Maclean and is well worth the drive, if only to grab a bite at The Snacky on the beach and soak up the salt air.

Just 9km south of Broom’s along a pretty good dirt road you’ll find the north bank of the Sandon River. There’s a caravan park and boat ramp here, and this little estuary is one of the prettiest you’ll ever see. Fishermen love the place, with good reason. You’ll need to check a Marine Parks map before you toss in a line, though. Some of the creeks leading into the Sandon are Sanctuary Zones where no fishing is allowed.

North of Broom’s you’ll tour into the Yuraygir national park. It’s a neat coastal park which runs between Brooms Head and Angourie, further north. There are lots of coastal walks, with pretty headlands and typical coastal vegetation. Shelley Head is worth a look (especially if you’re a fisho). Red Cliff camping area is an absolute gem. You can access it off the Broom’s Head – Maclean road about 4km north of Broom’s. Park fees apply and there are stacks of spots for vans, bbqs, wood and toilets.

Yamba and Iluka are nestled at the entrance to the Clarence and are great little holiday towns. Both these holiday villages featured in Issue 70 of C&M.

No article on the Big River Country would be complete without mention of the fishing in the region. It’s one of the area’s major industries, both from a recreational and commercial viewpoint. A big fleet of trawlers work the river for prawns, smaller craft ply their nets for fish and the offshore boats brave the ocean’s vagaries to supply local and metropolitan markets with fresh seafood.

Recreational anglers find the Clarence is a little piece of fishing heaven. Beaches, breakwalls and rocks along the coastline and the vast area of the Clarence estuary itself provide uncountable opportunities for the travelling angler to wet a line. The fresh water tributaries are home to the mighty Australian bass, one of the nation’s most popular sportfish. If an angler can’t catch a fish dinner in Big River Country, he’s not really trying!

Big River Country is a fabulous place for the RV tourer to visit. The city of Grafton and surrounding towns are welcoming and packed with attractions and facilities, and the scenery is just fantastic. The climate is just about perfect year round and there’s a holiday feel to the region that’s hard to escape. It’s just a heck of a nice place to be.