THE RED CENTRE

We save you $100s and show you a different side to Oz’s most popular red dirt destination

WORDS BY FRED WRIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY BY CARAVAN AND MOTORHOME

The drive from Sydney to Alice Springs via Adelaide, Port Augusta and Coober Pedy was an exceptionally scenic one that captivated me from the moment we set out. We had heard that Alice Springs was an expensive place to visit, but when we arrived, we were absolutely blown away by the amount of low-cost attractions and activities available. We couldn’t wait to start exploring everything this town had to offer and bust the ‘too expensive’ myth we’d heard so much about. Cruising into the BIG4 MacDonnell Range Holiday Park, which was to be our base for the trip, we were greeted with friendly welcomes by owner of the park, Brendan, and his beaut staff members. One aspect that we really loved about this park was the free activities, which were available almost every night. If you’re staying in Alice Springs, check out what the parks offer at no extra cost, as it’s definitely the extras that make your stay worthwhile.

ADVENTURES AHEAD

After setting up camp, we visited Ormiston Gorge, about 135km due west of Alice on a good bitumen road. We found ourselves stopping constantly to photograph the magnificent MacDonnell Ranges and really enjoyed the peace and tranquillity this special place offered. There are so many interesting walking tracks in the area, and if it’s warm enough, there’s also the allure of swimming in the gorge, which has a near-permanent water hole available. You can also secure a campsite at Ormiston for as little as $10 a night, but be wary that it works on a first in best-dressed basis and RVers must be self-contained and bring their own drinking water. No generators are allowed, so make sure your solar system is working properly too. Once you’re set up, you’re in the perfect position to view the spectacular walking tracks, with the five minute Water Hole Walk and the 20-minute Ghost Gum Lookout walks some of the most popular.

Ormiston Gorge is brimming with natural beauty and curious wildlife and is sure to captivate all who visit. One person who knows all about this is one of the rangers, Paul, who proved to be most knowledgeable about flora and fauna and the fish life here. If you have time to take in a ranger talk, you’ll be in for a treat and come away appreciating this areas beauty so much more than before.

Discover the true story of Alice Springs at the incredible Telegraph Station, which is just four kilometres north of Alice Springs and less than $15 to enter – even less for concession card holders. From the moment we arrived, we knew this should have been our first point of call. There’s an abundance of history, which depicts  how Alice was the first town in Central Australia and how the technological revolution of Morse code birthed a new means of communication. It was here that we learnt about wives, who were spread between Adelaide and Port Darwin, that took Morse code into their own hands. Their dedication to fine-tuning the codes meant that Morse went from a four-month effort to a simple three hour one! It was extremely fascinating stuff. Our recommendation is to take a guided tour and spend time here, as the tour guides will be able to express the immense impact that this technological marvel had in the 1870’s and explain how it still remains important in this present day.

Back at the holiday park, we enjoyed a wonderful happy hour, courtesy of park management, with plenty of cheese and biscuits circulating the cheerful group of RVers. A professional singer and a local tour operator were also present and kept us entertained throughout the night. The MacDonnell Ranges Caravan Park is renowned for their free, regular happy hour entertainment and we loved it. Our favourite event involved a unique didgeridoo outback performance and a cheering crowd who couldn’t get enough of Andrew, the talented musician behind it all. Andrew is an internationally acclaimed didgeridoo player and storyteller, and he captivated everyone in the park so successfully that stories of the events were still being told days later. Through his music, we experienced the pulse of Australia’s living heart as never before.

The festivities didn’t stop there – we awoke bright and early on Sunday and started talking to excited guests, who ‘pancake breakfast’ morning, which is a free weekly event held by the park.

Every Sunday morning, Brenden and his staff begin to prepare for their pancake extravaganza, and from 8am onwards, long lines have formed. Everyone has a plate, knife and fork in hand as they eagerly await the first batch of piping hot pancakes, each one as big as a large plate. This isn’t just a breakfast; this is an exciting time to join in on discussions with fellow guests, many of whom can’t stop talking about the beauty of this red-dirt paradise and the attractions they’ve seen. Brenden thinks he’s cooked up to 900 pancakes in a session, but says he loves every minute of it as he gets to personally meet guests, hear their stories and enjoy the camaraderie that overtakes the park.

MUSEUMS GALORE

RVers who visit Alice Springs always rave about the National Road Transport Hall of Fame, approximately eight kilometres from the CBD, and it’s easy to see why. The Hall of Fame is a treasure trove of history and artefacts – but be warned, as many a woman has lost her partner in here and many men return five or more times, just to be sure they’ve seen everything. There are three main buildings here, with the magnificent and modern Kenworth Dealer Hall of Fame the main centrepiece. Liz Martin is the CEO and driving force, and she works with a fantastic team of over fifty volunteers, many of whom are Grey Nomads. The team are known to spend weeks, months and years camped here with their rigs and work tirelessly to keep this vast facility in tiptop shape. The fabulous hall of fame is devoted to pictures and stories of the truckies and truckettes whose lives have been spent keeping Australia’s vital transport system alive and it’s really interesting to wander through.

Don’t overlook the Ghan Railway Museum in the precinct either, as the history is beautifully presented and incredibly interesting. RVers will love learning about the camel drovers, who played an important role in creating the Ghan Railway and seeing the huge steam train and other exhibits. If you’re in need of rest and relaxation, there’s a lovely café in the precinct where you can get delicious refreshments and a bite to eat, all served with a smile. This complex is a must see in Alice!

We were keen to return to the centre of Alice and see the National Pioneer Women’s Hall of Fame and the old gaol where it is housed, too. For just $10, we had access to one of the most inspiring museums in the area. ‘What’s Work Worth’, ‘Women and the Heart’ and ‘Ordinary Women, Extraordinary Times’ are all stories of outback women that are depicted here. You’ll also learn of women who refused to stay at home and instead became pioneers in the academic, aviation, sport, parliament, legal and medical professions. Information about these women is little known outside the Hall of Fame, so I was excited to delve into the heart of it and I wasn’t disappointed.

REPTILES TO RESORTS

Almost directly opposite the Women’s Hall of Fame is the Alice Springs Reptile Centre, which has the largest reptile display in central Australia. For less than $20 you can soak in Australia’s eclectic mix of wildlife as you surround yourself with thorny devils, frilled neck lizards, huge pythons, venomous snakes and fantastic gecko caves. The Reptile Centre is a real eye opener and works to show just how vast and diverse our country is. Park owner, Rex, introduced us to Terry the saltwater crocodile, who was very well behaved for our visit. Rex also took the opportunity to teach us about the dangers of walking too close to river or billabong embankments and encouraged us to stay a minimum of five metres away at all times for our own safety.

Mark from Sandrifter Safaris was also a wealth of knowledge. Mark took us on an escorted tour to Ross River Station, located 80km from Alice. I highly suggest taking this tour, as the drive alone may damage your own RV or 4WD, which is something I know we avoid doing at all costs. It also gives you the chance to learn about the geology, geography and history of what was once an inland sea corridor. Mark can tailor-make day and overnight trips, and offers fantastic accommodation offers and top tucker for everyone who comes along, which is a real treat for those wanting to get that true outback experience.

While we were in the area, we decided to check out the Ross River Resort, which is a fantastic outback resort, based around the original 1890’s Loves Creek Homestead. Brimming with over 100 years of intriguing history, I went through with eyes wide open. Jodie and Shane own the property now, but gold mine supervisors, famous horse breeders and film operators previously lived here. The best thing is, you can pull your caravan or motorhome up and camp under the stars for as little as $25 a night. The cheap price of this amazed us, as the resort was brimming with natural beauty and incredible history – something you just can’t find in the city! We ear-marked the park for the future and left with a hearty goodbye wave from the owners.

Planning to stay a few days in Alice simply will not do if you hope to explore, experience and get a fair dinkum feeling for the region. We’d suggest being flexible when booking your stay, as it’s quite common to come for two nights and stay for two weeks. Many people wonder why this is so, but as I relaxed in the beautiful, warm heat of Alice, I realised that this place affects each visitor in a different way. Perhaps it’s the fiery red sunsets that light up the MacDonnell Ranges or the millions of stars in the night sky. There’s a reason why caravanners love Alice Springs, and getting a real sense for the Australian outback is just the start. One thing you can be certain of, is that you will find some of the best bang for buck museums and attractions in Alice Springs. Don’t let myths about big costs keep you away – we know firsthand just how cheap Alice Springs can be. We know you’ll love the low-cost attractions and unmatched beauty of Alice Springs and we can’t wait to one day come back and do it all again.