THE MIGHTY MURRAY

Never in such a short distance has Fred found so many riverside free camps, natural wonders and excellent treats

WORDS BY FRED WRIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRED WRIGHT AND JOHN HABERFIELD

Our trip along the Murray took us east from Echuca/ Moama to another set of twin towns at Yarrawonga/ Mulwala, a distance of less than 140km. We travelled along good bitumen roads with great caravan parks and free camps abound, this trip will definitely satisfy the need of any RVer. Of course, my favourite part was the constant company of the Murray River and the changing scenery and variety of attractions along the way.

ECHUCA/MOAMA

On the first night, we chose to stay in the Moama Riverside Holiday Park just over the bridge from Echuca in Moama and this proved to be a central point from which to explore. It’s also a pleasant walk to Echuca with great views of the Murray and paddle steamers along the way.

Moama in the early days on the NSW side of the river never seemed to rise to the glory of its Victorian sister town. For a time though, it proved an important town for cattle being driven to Melbourne. Today it’s a most welcoming hamlet beside the Murray with many service clubs to attract the travellers. We were pleasantly surprised by lunchtime menus offering two meals for the price of one and ‘T-bone steaks for $10 each. After stopping off at the visitor’s centre in Echuca we headed straight for the Echuca Discovery Centre.

Your admission price to the Discovery Centre includes a guided tour. I strongly advise that you follow, as it will give you a real insight into the historical importance of Echuca.

We were enthralled by the many working steam engines, and stories of early paddle steamer history and the crucial role Echuca Wharf played in the town’s development. Although it is now a far cry from what was here in the 1800 hundreds.

I’d also recommend you consider travelling aboard a Murray River paddle steamer, over 100 years old. You can talk to the captain and crew and listen to an informative commentary as the paddlewheels churn away. This experience was one of the highlights of our trip and gave us a real feel for river life in the early days.

Back on dry land we decided to head to a little place I’d heard about on the bush telegraph, the Great Aussie Beer Shed. Prepare to be amazed here because it’s not what you might expect. Touted as the top attraction in Echuca, you’ll love the machinery, horse drawn vehicles and unique memorabilia. Of course its biggest attraction would be the thousands of beer cans from around the world, adorning the walls, ceiling and every other surface.

After the Great Aussie Beer Shed, it was off to check out another traditional Australian icon – Holden – at The National Holden Motor Museum. Here you’ll find just about every Holden ever made, including prototypes, and the exhibits are constantly changing. There’s also an audio visual display, you can get right up close to all the vehicles, visit the souvenir shop and hear from the owner who’s a walking encyclopaedia about all things Holden. Even dyed in the wool Ford lovers will enjoy the mechanical and historical aspects and the tribute to the ‘king of the mountain’, Peter Brock.

Most RVers will have memories of their first Holden or know friends who are passionate about Australia’s own car. My first car was a Holden back in 1962 and it was revealing to see just how far technology has evolved. The good memories of those days live on but I was struck by the skinny tyres and small size of the early Holdens, compared with those of today.

Echuca/Moama are lively, welcoming towns that provide everything for the RVer. Plan to spend time here and enjoy the Murray River lifestyle that locals say is the best in Oz. And so, with paddle steamer whistles resonating along the river we headed off to Yarrawonga/Mulwala.

YARRAWONGA/MULWALA

Upon arrival, we popped into the Barmah National Park, we’d heard there were lovely free campsites under huge shady trees and close to the river, and we were not disappointed. In fact, not only did we find these gorgeous free camps, but we also found Kingfisher ‘Eco’ Cruises – another great tip from our mates on the road.

We chose to take a cruise through the world heritage listed Barmah Wetlands and as you slip quietly across the water in the dappled shade of towering red gums, of the world’s largest single stand of River Red Gum, you’ll understand why these wetlands are recognised as being ‘of international importance’. As we drifted along the river, we became acquainted with ‘The Narrows’, or Barmah Choke. The Narrows is a perched river with natural silt jetties separating it from the remnants of a once larger Moira Lake and Barmah Lake. Most rivers run in a valley, but The Narrows is actually higher than the land either side. Brilliantly coloured Kingfishers entertained us as we eased our way through this aquatic wonderland.

Whilst visiting Barmah National Park, you must check out the Nathalia/Barmah Visitor’s Centre, in Nathalia, has a Forest Heritage and Education Centre, which tells us the story of the surrounding forest and its ecological importance. Helpful staff will answer your questions and direct you to town features.

One of the gems nearby, which might easily be overlooked, is the Red Gum Retreat. A campsite set on 180 acres of natural bushland, located on Ulupna Island, at the edge of the Barmah State Park. We were caught unawares by the wonderful camping opportunities with powered sites on grassy areas with toilets and hot/cold showers. Our main objective in coming here was to see the Koala breeding region and they didn’t disappoint. There’s also an abundance of free camps, like Horseshoe Bend and Finley Beach, running beside the river. Mark this spot down as hidden gem and you won’t be disappointed.

Off once more we hit the road, heading to Cactus Country at Strathmerton. They say it’s like another world and it’s certainly more than a magnificent garden.

Shady courtyards overlook a jaw dropping American Landscape that might even have you thinking you could be in Texas or on the set of a spaghetti western. The number and varieties of cacti are astounding, so make sure you put on one of their Mexican sombreros and take plenty of photos. You’ll also find the Cactus Café, where you can sit for a spell and relax after your walk around the gardens. They have lovely coffee and I seriously recommend the Cactus Soup!

Only 30km down the road, you find the Byramine Homestead and Brewery, not far from Yarrawonga. This classically maintained homestead is both an historical site and an excellent place to sample some great brews, wines and ciders. Find out the history of this beautiful place and its association with Hamilton Hume, one of the earliest explorers.

It’s almost mandatory to drop into the Information Centre at Yarrawonga just before you cross the bridge to Mulwala. Staff are most helpful, views from their café are delightful and it’s here you can pick up free maps and information.

We opted to stay at the Lakeside Holiday Park, about five kilometre out of Mulwala and right on Lake Mulwala. This is a beautiful setting, has a great boat ramp and you can arrange with management to take a boat ride through this spectacular lake scenery, don’t forget that Lake Mulwala is famous for its sunsets.

While we were here they were holding their ‘Cod Classic’ fishing tournament and two thousand anglers had registered in an attempt to catch a tagged Murray Cod with a prize of one million dollars.

This trip showed us some seriously enjoyable attractions, unique history and plenty of fantastic caravan parks and free camps. It’s little wonder that the Mighty Murray River is not only the life blood of Australia, but a mecca for RVers.