THE EXPLORERS WAY

Iconic pubs, awe-inspiring gorges, thermal springs and historic landmarks; this is the year to head up the Stuart Highway!

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY BOB AND PHYLLIS BOWERS

Our journey had taken us through the middle of Queensland to the Barkley Highway then to The Three Way on the Stuart Highway, with a short 25km detour south to Tennant Creek as fuel is much cheaper there. It had been several years since we had travelled the Stuart to Darwin. With anticipation we looked forward to rediscovering “old favourites”, finding something new and see what had changed.

TENTANT CREEK

At Tennant Creek, the first place we visited was the Nyinkka Nyunyu, a unique arts and culture centre which offers visitors an opportunity to learn about Aboriginal life, history and land in the Tenant Creek region. Nomads who visit the centre will be able to shop the retail store, featuring local art works, craft, gifts and books. There’s also an abundance of information on the region, a fantastic museum/gallery, a small café, gorgeous landscaped gardens and traditional and contemporary performances. The manager of the Nyinkka Nyunyu Centre proudly showed us through the studios to meet local artists creating masterpieces for sale.

After “doing the towns attractions” it was time to head for our camp at The Pebbles/Kunjarra just north of Tenant Creek. The turn off is almost opposite The Old Telegraph Station. As we drove past we imagined living here in the 1870s, when part of the overland telegraph station was constructed. From our last visit, we learned a selfguided walk takes you through a cellar, smoke house, kitchen, telegraph office, butcher, blacksmith and cemetery. At The Pebbles free camp, orange sandstone rocks blaze a deep red at sunset and sunrise.

HITTING THE HIGHWAY

Along the Stuart many small community pubs offer camping and each has its own unique character, such as the Larrimah Pub where the ceiling is adorned by hats from previous visitors – apparently it’s tradition to do this. From the Larrimah Pub, we took a short detour off the highway to have a look at Newcastle Waters. Years ago the corrugated iron homes were occupied by aboriginal families, now they lay deserted – including an old fuel server. That night we stopped at the Dunmarra camping area and Phyllis spied a Boab tree, quite out of place here. This is not the Kimberley! There was another surprise that night. It was 1st of July and the locals put on a fantastic fireworks show.

Anyone travelling the Stuart cannot pass by the Daly Waters Pub without calling in for “a look” or pull up to camp. Explorer John Stuart named the area Daly Waters after the Governor of South Australia, Sir Daly. He carved an “S” in a nearby tree to mark the spot and the dead trunk still stands. The pub is the oldest pub in the NT and was originally set up as a drovers supply store. Inside is an unbelievable array of “stuff” visitors have left behind to decorate the walls and ceilings. All donations are accepted especially from the ladies. There are thongs, money, number plates, bras, hats, clothing, and business cards – basically anything you can think of. Across from the pub is a tin shed souvenir shop with an old helicopter on the roof. A sign reads “helicopter flights cancelled.” Daly Waters also boasts Australia’s first international airport. It was the rear guard base during the bombing of Darwin. The Larkin Hanger still stands. A tip for anyone wanting to camp at the pub: get in early!

MATARANKA TO KATHERINE

Our next major destination was Mataranka Thermal Springs, the first of several springs between here and Darwin to laze in. Mataranka, just over 100km south of Katherine, sits on the Roper River. The area is famous for Jeannie Gunn’s novel (1908) “We of the Never Never” about Elsie Station and you’ll find a replica of the Elsie Homestead. While Mataranka springs are surrounded by constructed rock walls Bitter Springs, just north, have been left in its natural state. We liked them better. Bitter is better!

Next stop, Katherine. At Katherine we like to stay at Riverview Tourist Village because it is a very short walk to Katherine Thermal Springs. Here the swift water flows over a very small waterfall, the trick is to hop in upstream then drift. The area was named by, you guessed it, John Stuart, In 1989. When the Jawoyn Aboriginal people gained title to the land the area was renamed Nitmiluk (cicada place). Although there are a number of attractions around Katherine, the gorge is the “must see and do”. Over time, torrential rains have carved out 13 gorges in the system. Stunning rock art adorn the gorge walls and rocks. The first 3 gorges are accessible by organised tours, the rest require paddling a canoe. Walking treks also allow access to some and helicopter flights display the gorge’s magnificence form a bird’s eye view. Too many choices! As we had kayaked the gorges on a previous trip we thought we would do it again. Unfortunately the first gorge was closed to kayaking due to a crocodile sighting weeks earlier. It was possible to paddle from gorge two but that required us paying to be taken to and from gorge two then hiring their canoes. Expensive! So, Phyllis and I decided to hike to Lilypond at the third gorge. This was a day long trek classed as difficult and required climbing down a 50m cliff then back up – other hikes are less strenuous.

North of Katherine and 20km off the Stuart is Edith (Lelilyn) Falls on the boundary of Katherine (Nitmiluk) Gorge National Park. The paper back and pandanus fringed pool at the base of the falls is safe for swimming. Right next to the falls is a large grassy camping and picnic area. When we arrived at 10am there were already others lined up to get a camping spot. As an alternative, just south of Pine Creek is a 21km dirt road to Umbrawarra Gorge. Don’t let the dirt road or the spartan camping area put you off. We didn’t and were delighted. The sheer, ochre coloured sandstone gorge walls are bisected by a crystal clear stream with swimming holes. A short track goes to the first two and from there it’s rock hopping for as long or as short as you like to access more remote swimming holes.

Further north is the turn off to Douglas Hot Springs and camping. Unlike the other NT thermal springs, which are warm, these are hot, hot, hot! A very hot spring flows down stream to join another stream which is cold. So, you can easily find a temperature to suit, from too hot to very cool. Phyllis liked it hotter than I, but we found a place at the junction of both streams where she was in very warm water and I was in cooler water. While there we did the 16km 4WD trip to Butterfly Gorge. Along the track is a termite mound that’s an unbelievable 7M tall. We climbed up a cliff, down the other side then up and down another to the gorge and waterfall. Spectacular!! Back on the Stuart, Adelaide River is just 100k from Darwin. This is a place for quiet reflection. Beneath the manicured lawns of the Adelaide River War Cemetery lay hundreds of men and women who gave their lives in WW2 for Australia’s freedom. In particular it commemorates the bombing of Darwin with an excellent video.

END OF THE LINE

Last stop before Darwin was Berry Springs, 10km off the Stuart. Berry Springs Nature Park is ideal for a refreshing swim and picnic. Berry Creek starts from several small springs flowing into a small creek that tumbles over a small waterfall into two large aqua coloured swimming holes. Nearby is Berry Springs Wildlife Park. This expansive Park specialises in Australian animals and birds. Once an entry is paid a free train constantly runs around the park allowing visitors to get on and off as you please.

Darwin at last and our Stuart leg done! So, what had changed since last visiting? All our old favourites (with some upgrades) were still there with a few new attractions. A lot more people are travelling. The major difference was: no matter if you are free camping, low cost camping or staying at caravan parks be early. Don’t expect to get in after lunch as most places will be full. Never the less do “The Stuart”. John Stuart had it much tougher in 1862!