RIVERSIDE HAVEN

Follow the majestic Tamar River from Launceston to experience some of the best vineyards, museums and wilderness Tasmania has to offer

WORDS BY LORRAINE HOLLOWAY, PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN AND LORRAINE HOLLOWAY

Have you wondered where to stay when in Launceston, without venturing into a caravan park, or heading out of town for one of those illusive freedom camps. I have found just the place, only 4km from the CBD. This relatively new freedom camp – Old Macs Farm Caravan & Motorhome Farm Stay, offers a grassy, secure, and pleasant site, in beautiful natural settings, with a fishing lake as the centre piece. With the Stonesthrow Café at entrance of the complex serving up breakfast daily what more can you ask for at a low cost camp, close to town.

LAUNCESTON

You have arrived in Lonny (as the locals call it), set up your camp at Old Macs’ Farm, and now you are looking for something to do close to town. We had some work to be done on our tow vehicle, so while it was at the work shop, next door was the National Automobile Museum of Tasmania. If you are a car fanatic, this is a must see.

With two floors dedicated to classic motor vehicles and motorcycles, there is something to keep most people amused for a few hours. Our visit coincided with the “Longford – The Glory Years” exhibition, however themes change regularly. Check the NAMT website to find out more on upcoming themes.

Also, a must see while in town is Cataract Gorge. There are not too many cities that have a wilderness park 15 minutes walking distance from the CBD. In this beautiful park, you can hike, walk across a suspension bridge to beautiful gardens, ride the world’s longest single span chairlift, then after lunch at one of the eateries or picnic in the park, take a swim in the pool. For those a little less inclined to walk up and down the cliffs from the carpark, there is “The Inclinator”, a mechanised people mover, similar to a cable car, capable of carrying up to eight people, transporting less abled visitors from the top entrance to the gardens below.

Walking trails of Launceston are available from the Visitors Information Centre, and include many of the historical buildings and parks in town.

HEADING OUT OF TOWN

With our Rig back on the road, it was time to explore outlying areas, all within easy drive of the city. Our first point of call was only about 40 minutes’ drive north, along the A7 to the Glengarry Bush Maze, a treat for young and old. This unique hedge maze, nestled in amongst natural Tasmanian bushland, is a fun place to test yourself against the bush and garden puzzles. After we satiated our appetite for puzzles, we took in the gift shop and tea room and enjoyed afternoon tea. On our return, we checked out the beautiful Notley Fern Gorge. This pristine 11ha reserve is dominated by large eucalypts and down by the creek, a variety of fern species growing in profusion. A one and a half kilometre loop takes you through the forest, which was privately owned for over a hundred years, and was a hiding place for bushranger Matthew Brady (a notorious convict who escaped from Sarah Island) and his gang back in the 1820s.

Only 10 minutes north of Launceston along the West Tamar Highway, lookout for the Tamar Island Wetlands. Here you can take a gentle three kilometre hike through the wetlands, observe birds quietly in the bird hide and discover the history of the island. Take lunch with you to enjoy on the island.

Wandering along the Meander Valley Highway through Westbury, 30 minutes west of Launceston, we stumbled upon signage for Steam World Annual Steam Up! Coming from South East Queensland, anything with the word WORLD attached to it normally makes me shudder, but associated with the word STEAM, decided it might be worth a look. Pearn’s Steam World is open to the public daily, but once a year on the last weekend in October, they celebrate everything steamy with their annual “Steam Up”.

Many of their regular restored exhibits were fired up, from scale replica to full-sizes steam traction engines, miniature trains and tractors. Children young and old waited in friendly queues for their turn at a ride. We climbed up into the traction engine to take a ride around the complex and sat in the trailer behind the replica. “CHUGGA CHUGGA TOOT TOOT”, went the traction engine, “phutta phutta toot toot” answered the ‘mini me’.

The static displays of vintage tractors and trucks, motorbikes and cars, farm machinery and even an old steam boat are housed in the big hangars. Permanent exhibitions include The Women on the March display, featuring the changes in agriculture throughout the lives of four generations of the Pearn women; they had roles in the Australian Women’s Land Army and the CWA, important roles in both times of war and peace.

HISTORICAL VILLAGES

To the south of Launceston we found the pretty towns of Evandale and Longford, both less than half an hour from the city. On our visit to the Georgian town of Longford we found two World Heritage Listed convict built estates, Brickendon and Woolmers. We visited Woolmers estate, the home of the Archers for six generations. The home and outbuildings open to the public, feature the main homestead, cottages, and outbuildings including woolshed, stables, blacksmith shop and coach house. You can take a self-guided tour, however, we upgraded to the guided homestead tour to gain more of an insight to the life of the Archers from convict times back in 1817, to the passing of the last of the Archers in 1994. Across the river from Woolmers is Brickendon, the “sister” estate, also established and worked by another of the Archer family and currently operated by seventh generation Archers.

Take a walk through Longford’s historic precinct – grab a map and tour guide and learn about the town’s history as you walk the streets, picnic in Victoria Square, or wander around the Mill Dam Reserve. There is certainly plenty to keep you busy in Longford.

Nearby is Evandale, a National Trust classified Georgian village. Popular for its Sunday Markets, is known also for heritage buildings, antiques and the nearby Clarendon Homestead. Unfortunately, Clarendon Homestead was closed at the time of our visit for major renovations. Noted British artist and painter, John Glover, immigrated to the area back in 1831 and spent the rest of his life living and painting here. A statue dedicated to his memory is at the gates of Falls Park.

WATERFALLS, GALLERIES AND NATURE TRAILS

On a drive North East of Launceston, following the Lilydale and Golconda Roads we found ourselves at Lilydale Falls, where we enjoyed a pleasant 10 minute return walk out through ferns and eucalypt forest and found a beautiful cascading waterfall. The grassy park is suitable for picnics, and if you are self-contained, you can camp overnight. While we wandered around the surrounding area, we stumbled, quite by chance, onto the Lalla Appleshed Gallery. The gallery showcases the works of Shelly MacLeod, a talented local artist, who has been a finalist in the Glover Prize and an entrant in the Archibald Prize. She also is obsessed with miniatures and is in the process of building “Lalla-Ville”, a 1:12 scale village. Built from scratch, Shelly makes all the houses and shops, fittings and dolls. The effervescent Shelly was delighted to show us around her gallery.

Also close to Lilydale is Hollybank Forest, where you can take one of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks. This two kilometre circuit features toilets, picnic and bbq areas and dogs are allowed if kept on a lead. The walk takes you through ash and pines trees, and a mix of native bush and plantation forest.

BEN LOMOND – NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED

A little further from Launceston, but well worth the one hour drive without the caravan is the trip to Ben Lomond. Head out of Launceston via White Hills or Evandale onto the Blessington Road, and follow roadsigns to the national park. We drove up in November, however in winter, this drive might be quite icy. Ben Lomond is one of Tasmania’s premier ski resorts; the road to the summit is closed between June and September. Be prepared for cold weather here, the summit is 1572m, and is the second highest point in Tasmania. In warmer months, the drive up Jacobs Ladder to the resort is something you just have to do. The gravel road follows a series of switchback. It is not for the faint hearted. As you climb the mountain, you are surrounded by rugged dolerite columns and imposing cliffs, dating back to the Jurassic period. The Alpine Village at the foot of the ski slopes is closed during summer months, however there is a public day shelter and toilets which will be open.

Do yourself a favour, set up camp at Old Macs Farm, leave the van behind and explore fabulous Launceston. Have breakfast at Stone’s Throw Cafe at the entry to the park, and then explore the area which is now at your fingertips.