NINGALOO WONDERLAND
The journey from Coral Bay to Exmouth is filled with white sands, crystal blue waters and phenomenal marine life – you’ll will love it
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY IAN ROBERTSON
One of the places we’ve always wanted to experience is the Coral Coast in WA – in particular the beautiful Ningaloo Reef. We explored the 360km long world heritage listed area, which includes Cape Range National Park, by land and travelled the whole length – from Coral Bay to the tip of Exmouth Gulf. This stunning stretch of reef is one of only five in the world, and upon first site it’s so clear why the Ningaloo Reef is internationally recognised. For anyone who takes this trip, each morning you will be greeted by a sparkling blue ocean, brimming with sea-life and at night you’ll have your pick of some beautiful waterside caravan parks and free camps. Although short, this a journey not to be missed.
CORAL BAY
Coral Bay is 1115km north of Perth and 152km south of Exmouth, reached by the sealed Indian Ocean Drive, Brand and North West Coastal Highways and Minilya- Exmouth Road. There is no single main attraction – there are many! All centred at or around Bill’s Bay, named after a local pastoralist’s wife (Billie) who first settled there in the 1920s. Later in the 1960s a hotel was developed called the Coral Bay Hotel and the name has remained for the area.
There are two caravan parks, Peoples Park Coral Bay and Bayview Coral Bay, side by side across the road from the bay, with a general store and Fins Restaurant between them and attached to the Bayview is one of the many ticketing hubs for all the water based activities, as well as a pizza bar and restaurant.
Opposite the parks on the main street is a shopping centre catering for dive and fishing tours, beauty treatments, a supermarket, newsagent and the ever popular bakery – judging by the queues. Next door is a newly built tavern to add to the one at the other end of the street at the resort. So there is no shortage if you are not going to be cooking your own freshly caught fish. Fish cleaning facilities and public showers are located near the beach. This friendly community really has everything a caravanner could need, all within walking distance.
After a few days of rain and spending our time exploring the rock pools for bright green crabs, orange rays and yellow and green tropical fish, the sun came out and we were off on a fishing trip, out past the reef – within the first two hours we had caught the quota of fish for the day! Of course, for those not interested in fishing there is a plethora of waterbased activities around the shelter of the reef. Snorkelling and dive charters, as well as the glass bottomed boat for the not-so-water lovers are all very popular. We saw turtles, dugongs and giant manta rays. The reef is simply one giant aquarium! Be mindful, the Ningaloo Reef is home to six of the seven species of the world’s turtles. They nest in November and hatch from January to March, so take care when walking or driving along the beach at these times.
March to August, the whale sharks congregate here. The humpback whales visit from June to November on their migration to calve from southern waters, and the gentle and safe manta rays are a permanent resident of the reef area. The amazing array of sea life makes this region a world heritage listed site, hence there are ‘no-fishing’ zones throughout the sanctuary.
On most days (around 3.30pm) there is fish feeding in less than kneedeep water in the bay as the fish feel protected in this sanctuary. At any time it is possible to walk just off the beach and snorkel amongst the coral. If you really want to get out and experience it, Coral Bay Tours offer a great little full or half day tour on their boat, which is perfect for us nomads!
Aside from viewing the fish and coral from the water, an amazing perspective is had by helicopter. Mick, Tony and Emma provide a very professional charter from the nearby airstrip over the dunes, following the coral patterns of the inner reef. Who knew there were so many shades of blue!
Another activity run by two companies is drive-yourself guided quad bike tours through the dunes, which offers an incredible trip on sunset.
As always when on the road we met a variety of campers with different rigs, competing time frames and various interests. We met Phil and Florry who were taking three months from as far afield as Tasmania; David and Shelley passed the non-fishing days with games of chess ( I’m not allowed to say who won!); and an interesting one night stay by Armin and Kay – I can now boast I have met a man who has built five lighthouses!
Peak times are March-November and school holidays so book early, though there is a limited overflow area. Most regulars book their next year on departure from the park.
EXMOUTH AND CAPE RANGE
After our extended stay at Coral Bay, we ventured north along the Minilya-Exmouth Road following the western side of the Gulf toward our ultimate destination of Cape Range on the west coast.
There are limited free camp options in this area of the gulf except for the uninvitingly sounding name of Termite Nests. No facilities, but a good flat area near the highway for a stop-off. This is aptly named as the majority of the 150km drive is ‘guarded’ by hundreds of termite nests dotted like sentinels on both sides of the road. A prize for who can count them all!
On the way is Learmonth Jetty which is a great land based fishing platform with the promise of Spanish mackerel, trevally and bream. It is surrounded by a wide pebble beach with plenty of space to park and has a single toilet. This is a day use area only and we were told the rangers are quite strict on this matter, so it is in every caravanner’s long term interests to try and obey the rules and adhere to the designated overnight areas.
The township is well spread with a new marina and adjoining residential estate to add to the existing stretch of resorts and hotels on the main Murat Road entry. At the corner of this and Maley St call in and see Brendan and the staff at Tackleworld for any fishing or snorkel gear as we did. Then right next door is the very busy but helpful caravan repair shop. The shopping centre is compact but fulfils your basic needs when travelling. The Visitor’s Centre should not be missed, with a huge red prawn by the road. I recommend a call in here for information, water fill-up, and toilets, nearby dump point or just to get a photo with the resident emu!
This was school holiday time and all campsites were booked in the National Park – generally try to avoid this peak time as space is at a premium. We phoned ahead to the Lighthouse Caravan Park who gave us hope for a site when they advised we call in when we arrived. Situated 15km north of town, just below the Vlaming Head Lighthouse and across the road from the beach, it is a great vantage point to view the sunset. The night we visited, it did not disappoint, as a camper who spends five months a year at the park to surf said “This was the best sunset yet”.
Take the short drive to the lighthouse and gain a unique perspective of the land below of Exmouth, Cape Range and the extent of the Ningaloo Reef from this northern point of the Gulf. The Cape Range Hills to the left and Ningaloo Reef on the right will became our travelling companions for the next 70km, as we headed to our one booked night at Yardie Creek. As we enter the National Park we pulled over to pay the entry fees to the ranger and saw the ‘Full’ sign – yes all 140 sites spread over some 15 designated areas were booked out – so as said “plan ahead”.
If your style or need is for a caravan park then Yardie Creek Homestead Caravan Park at the northern end of the range is for you. There’s a small shop and fuel available. Don’t be put off by the narrow and crumbly, though sealed, entrance drive. However you will need to drive to various destinations from here rather than just walk.
Milyering Discovery Centre is the booking centre for the area. It has a dump point and toilets. Continuing on the same road leads to Lakeside and T-Bone campsites but be aware there is no caravan turning. Call in to find out all the other visitor options.
Onward south is Turquoise Bay – it is the destination to snorkel, as access is straight off the beach into the rightly named turquoise water. This is a prime drift snorkel area as you follow the current. Please note the entry sign “No Caravans” as there is no turning and limited space, though we managed with our 8.5m motorhome. If you do need a lift to the beach, Yardie Creek Boat Tours do a seasonal pick-up and drop off service, which is really handy.
Our final destination was Yardie Creek at the end of the sealed road – this was definitely our pick, being absolute beachside, with river mouth and gorge only a few hundred metres away. We found no need to use the car for our entire stay. Here you’ll find a camp toilet, but also nearby new public toilets for the day visitors. There are Class 2 to 4 walks along the gorge rim at only 40 minutes to an hour return – we advise you to watch for the local black-footed wallaby. A great way to end your journey is by taking an amazing boat cruise up the river, giving you a different perspective by looking up to the canyon walls.
