HOME ON THE RANGE

Get a real outback experience only five hours from Adelaide

WORDS BY BARRY PETERS, PHOTOGRAPHY BY GAIL AND BARRY PETERS

Looking for an opportunity to move away from the coastal strip and see what the outback is all about? This experience is not the sole realm of the 4WD and off-road van or tent, with the Flinders Ranges National Park providing ample opportunities for all varieties of RV and tow vehicles. Sure, there are some rugged tracks and out-of-the-way camping spots for the more adventurous, but those with low clearance vans and conventional tow vehicles are well catered for with a brilliant outback experience there for the taking. Stunning rock formations, meandering (usually dry) creeks, a wealth of wild life and crystal clear skies are there to greet you. Star thing limiting our stay was the water gazers will be blown away by the clarity of the night sky and much time can be spent identifying the various constellations and planets, looking for satellites, and if you are lucky, waving to the astronauts on the International Space Station as it cruises overhead.

An easy 460km drive north of Adelaide on excellent sealed roads will see you at The Flinders Ranges National Park headquarters at Wilpena. This is a good place to start your stay with maps and a wealth of information available to ensure you get the best out of your time in the area. There is also a small store to stock up on those last minute provisions, fuel up and get a good coffee. Wilpena is the site of a major camp ground and a good place to stay if you want a few more of the niceties of life, including powered and un-powered sites, good toilets and hot showers. However, if camping is more your style and your rig is self-contained, the National Park has many small campgrounds spread throughout the park, most with designated sites and excellent, clean long-drop toilets nearby. Most are accessible with any rig, however some do require 4WD and off-road vans and these are well signposted. Nearly all sites have a fire pit with a BBQ plate and griddle so one of the great joys of camping, a good camp fire, is possible. It is important to note that picking up firewood within the National Park boundaries is strictly prohibited, so ensure you bring wood with you or buy a bag or two at Wilpena. The camping fees are a modest $13 per vehicle per night, paid either at the park headquarters or at self-registration shelters at the entry to each campground. Each shelter has a detailed map of the sites available with each site designated as small, medium or large so you can tell where your rig will fit. The individual sites are well spread out allowing for privacy.

On this trip we had the luxury of camping for ten nights at the East Brachina campground so we could set up our vans around the fire pit and made this our base for the trip. With solar panels and gas fridges, the only thing limiting our stay was the water supply. If this is a problem, carry one or two 20 litre water drums and, when visiting Wilpena, fill them up to take back to camp.

So, camp is set up: what next? This is the sort of place where you could just sit in camp and enjoy the peace and tranquillity, look out for wildlife and relax. For those requiring a battery re-charge after dealing with hectic city life, I couldn’t think of a better place – but if exploring is on the agenda, this area is full of opportunities. Anyone with an interest in geology will be in heaven. The Brachina Geological Trail not only takes you through breathtaking country, but also provides comprehensive signage along the 30km route explaining the different geological features. There are not too many places where you can pick up rocks that rained down on this area 600 million years ago as a result of a 4km diameter meteorite that hit the earth at Lake Acraman, about 300km away. This drive takes you through the picturesque Brachina Gorge, with the track following Brachina Creek. Take a picnic lunch with you, as there are numerous places to pull over along the creek and enjoy a bite or two under towering gums. The track is stony in places but quite suitable for conventional vehicles. Travel slowly through the gorge and you may well be rewarded with wallabies, kangaroos, emus and the elusive yellow-footed rock wallaby wandering along or adjacent to the track. Photo opportunities abound, if not the wildlife, the stunning scenery will have you clicking away.

Another easy day out that deserves a picnic lunch is a trip through Bunyeroo Gorge, arguably one of the most beautiful and rugged views of the Flinders. Razorback Lookout is nothing short of spectacular and will provide photographers with some of the most classic scenes of the Flinders. When driving through the gorge, keeping speed to a slow meander will often reward you with good views of the local wildlife. Raise your eyes to the sky and keep a lookout for wedge-tailed eagles that often soar above the hills and valleys keeping a lookout for the next meal opportunity. A good lunch spot is at Yanyanna Hut, about half way along the Bunyeroo drive.

A trip to Aroona Valley will give you an insight into how some of the early pioneers lived, with the Aroona Homestead ruins being well signposted with comprehensive information provided about the history of the area. If you know of the works of famous Australian artist Hans Heysen, the views around this area will probably look quite familiar. He spent much of his adult life painting the scenes around Aroona Valley, as well as other parts of the Flinders. You can see what captivated him, especially if you are around in early morning or late afternoon when the hills light up and seem to glow.

The other iconic spot to see in the Flinders is the famous Wilpena Pound, a large natural amphitheatre formed by a circle of massive mountains surrounding a flat, well-wooded area. There is about an hour’s easy walk into the Pound, but the effort is well worth it. The early settlers of the area used the Pound as a natural paddock for stock and the homestead has been restored faithfully. Once in the Pound, a more strenuous walk will take you up the side of the Pound to a spectacular lookout. It is only from here, or on one of the scenic flights available at Wilpena, that you can get some idea of the size and grandeur of this natural phenomenon.

There is much more that can be explored without leaving the National Park, especially if bushwalking is something you enjoy. However, a couple of longer drives will take you to some highly recommended locations. The famous Prairie Hotel at Parachilna will provide you with a great lunch. Lash out and try the famous FMG – the Feral Mixed Grill, featuring camel, roo and goat, or one of the fabulous burgers. You won’t go away hungry. Another top spot is Blinman where the Blinman Hotel will happily serve you a Big Blinman Burger, guaranteed to satisfy the hungry – or try the Wild Lime Café for a variety of delicious food. A walk around the old copper mine on the edge of town provides a glimpse of the harsh life led by the early miners in the area and on a stroll around town you will discover many of the very early homes of the area that have been well-maintained, and in some cases, still lived in today. Guided tours of the underground section of the mine are also available. The local cemetery is another poignant reminder of the harsh conditions endured by many of the early pioneers.

The Flinders Ranges National Park has much to offer. We easily filled ten days with some serious relaxation, fantastic scenic drives, a little bushwalking and visits to the nearby towns for some top food. It is so easy to get around and the camping options are many and varied. For the budget conscious, we found it was cheaper to be here for a couple of weeks than stay at home. Give it a go.