HEART AND SOUL

You’ll be awe-struck by these icons of Australia’s red centre

WORDS BY KARYN FANOUS PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSEPH AND KARYN FANOUS

Uluru – the heart of our land – is without doubt, breathtakingly majestic. Unbelievably enormous, its rich ochre tones change mysteriously throughout the day. Together with its neighbour, the multi-domed Kata Tjuta, it sits atop the vast surrounding desert plain like a huge natural monument to an ancient land.

Our journey to Uluru and Kata Tjuta began south of Alice Springs by turning west off the Stuart Highway onto the Lasseter Highway. Along the way, we were surprised to see a huge solitary mountain. At first we thought it was Uluru due to its massive size, but its flat top, vertical upper slopes, and outwardly angled lower slopes looked different to what we were expecting. It was in fact Mount Conner, named by South Australian Deputy Surveyor- General William Gosse after a member of the South Australian Parliament, M.L. Conner, who first saw it in 1873. We weren’t the only ones tricked by its sighting, so we think its name is appropriate as it regularly ‘cons’ unwary first time travellers!

The Mount Conner Lookout is 1km to the east of Curtin Springs and provides excellent views of this stunning 700 million year old mesa, or table-topped mountain. At 5km long, 2km wide and 244m high you can’t miss it!

As we headed a further 100km westward towards Ayres Rock Camp Ground at Yulara, we spotted wild camels among the lightly vegetated red sand dunes and enjoyed splendid views of the real Uluru as well as Kata Tjuta.

The formation of these giants is thought to have begun around 550 million years ago as rainwater gradually washed sand and rock from the then larger Peterman Ranges to the west, depositing it on the plains. After fifty million years, these deposits were compressed into rock under the weight of an inland sea that covered the area. Then around 400 million years ago, the sea disappeared followed by the shifting of tectonic plates, causing Uluru’s rock to tilt to 90 degrees. Softer rocks have since been eroded, leaving the magnificent Kata Tjuta and Uluru standing alone.

Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, a Commonwealth Reserve and World Heritage Area, is listed “for its outstanding natural values and as a living cultural landscape.” Archaeological evidence indicates that Aboriginal people have lived in the area for at least 22,000 years. The Anangu people are the traditional custodians of Uluru. The visitor pamphlet reads: “Welcome to Anangu land. Uluru, Kata Tjuta and the land around them have always been very special places. We think you will be inspired by the natural beauty and power of our land.”

ULURU

Our first view of Uluru, as we drove towards Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, was truly unforgettable. There before us was this enormous rock with what seemed to be a white aura surrounding it, set against a clear blue sky. It literally looked unreal! No matter what you have seen or heard of Uluru, nothing can prepare you for the experience of being in the presence of this iconic Australian landmark. It is mystical and enthralling, a natural masterpiece at the core of our continent.

Affectionately known as ‘The Rock’, with a girth of 9.4km and a height of 348m, and another two-thirds estimated to lie underground, Uluru is gigantic! It is exceedingly grand and has an undoubtable spiritual presence. It looks completely different up close from its various aspects, with unexpected sculptured contours, ribbing, patterns and caves.

The colour changes of Uluru each day are absolutely spectacular. Experiencing this was one of the highlights of our visit. At daybreak, Uluru exhibits a salmon pink tone, then for a short time glows an iridescent red before settling into the familiar ochre colour. By midday, The Rock’s orange-red hues blend with the colour of the surrounding desert sand, although at a distance it can appear bluish-purple.

With the sun low in the sky at sunset, Uluru begins to glow ember orange, before becoming a rich terracotta red. A deep purple then gradually creeps upward from its base before transforming into a soft pink. In times of rain, The Rock turns grey with waterfalls cascading down its ribs. These seemingly magical changes in the colour of Uluru are awe-inspiring.

The nearby Cultural Centre, built in the form of two snakes, is a destination in itself. Here you can learn about Anangu culture, history and Tjukurpa (law, knowledge, religion and philosophy), as well as the significance of the walks. There are art galleries, a café and souvenirs available. We were pleased with our purchase of a lovely ‘Bat Wing Coral Tree’ red seed bracelet.

WALKS

The Anangu people ask that you respect their culture and the sacred site of Uluru by not climbing it. There are also safety concerns, as many people have died and been injured while climbing Uluru.

MALA WALK  (2km , 1.5 hrs return):

We joined the excellent free ranger-guided Mala Walk and learnt about the Mala (rufous hare-wallaby) people, the ancestral beings of Anangu, and the Tjukurpa in relation to the rock features along the walk. We also learnt about bush tucker and traditional life and saw the boys’ initiation cave and rock art, the older men’s cave, and the women’s cave and ‘kitchen’.

The ranger then took us through tall gums and dense vegetation into the gently curved Kantju Gorge. The temperature was quite a bit cooler here. A small pool sits at the base of where a waterfall tumbles down during rain. This is where the Mala ancestors first camped on their arrival at Uluru.

BASE WALK (10.6km loop, 3.5 hrs):

From here we continued on the Base Walk through acacia woodlands, around the entire perimeter of Uluru. This is a long, flat but fabulous walk enabling visitors to witness the remarkable views of The Rock not commonly seen, along with its cultural aspects. Lovely rest stop seats made out of tree branches were greatly appreciated. Along the way, we came across a herd of wild camels beside and on the path!

A notable feature of the walk is Mutitjulu Waterhole, home of the ancestral watersnake Wanampi, said to have control over the source of this precious water. It was interesting to see the marks showing where the waterfall twists its way down the giant monolith in times of rain. It is one of the few permanent waterholes in the park and wildlife depend on it for their survival, making it a great spot for birdwatching. Here, another cave is decorated with rock art and informative signs detail how Kuniya (the python woman) and Liru (the poisonous snake man) helped form Uluru.

If you aren’t able to complete the entire Base Walk, there are shorter sections available. The Mutitjulu Waterhole is easily accessed from the Kuniya carpark (1 km; 30 mins return). The Lungkata Walk (4 km; 1.5 hrs return) extends between the Kuniya and Mala carparks and describes lessons about Lungkata (the blue-tongued lizard man).

At Talinguru Nyakunytjaku, Uluru’s main sunrise viewing area, there are two cultural and scenic walks with views of both Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Minymaku Walk (1 km; 30 mins return) is a ‘Women’s Business’ walk that informs visitors on topics such as collecting and preparing bush tucker and traditional children’s games. Watiku Walk (1.5 km; 1 hr return) is a ‘Men’s Business’ walk that teaches visitors about tool making and how fire is used for hunting.

KATA TJUTA

Meaning “many heads” in the Pitjantjatjara language, Kata Tjuta is sacred under Anangu men’s law. The 36 enormous domes are seemingly perched on top of the landscape, with the tallest dome 200m higher than Uluru!

WALKS

WALPA GORGE (2.6 km ; 1 hour return):

Walpa, meaning ‘windy’, is a very apt name. We visited on a very cold July day with a top of 7.5 degrees Celsius! And that’s without the wind chill factor! A rocky track follows a tiny stream up the narrow, steep-sided gorge. The huge, oval domes appear to be leaning and are composed of conglomerate – with large pebbles encased in the rock, providing a striking texture. At the head of the gorge, two ‘heads’ meet. Here you’ll find a grove of spearwood, used by the Anangu to make spear shafts.

VALLEY OF THE WINDS (7.4 km ; 3 – 4 hrs):

The full circuit walk through the dramatic landforms can be very hot and dry. It consists of three sections. Karu Lookout (2.2 km; 1 hr return) provides breathtaking views. Karingana Lookout (5.4 km; 2.5 hrs return) is challenging with steps and steep sections as it tracks down into the valley to another spectacular vista. The remainder of the walk loops back across the plain to Karu Lookout.

A fabulous way to finish our visit to the red centre was the Sounds of Silence Dinner. We marvelled at the sunset over Uluru and Kata Tjuta with drinks and canapés in hand, followed by a bush tucker-inspired dinner under the stars with traditional dance and didgeridoo performances, topped off with a fascinating astronomy talk about the dazzling outback sky.

Having experienced the awe and majesty of Uluru and Kata Tjuta, you are sure to feel a unique connection with the land and our country. After all, you are standing at the heart of Australia!