FROM SEA TO STONES

Begin on the golden sands of the Clarence beaches and journey up the Gibraltar Highway to the stones of Celtic Country

WORDS BY TRINA MORRIS, PHOTOGRAPHY BY TRINA AND RAY MORRIS, ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARG MCALISTER, CLARENCE TOURISM AND GLEN INNES TOURISM

A favourite touring theme of ours is to zig-zag our way up or down Australia’s eastern seaboard, rather than taking a direct north-south route. By weaving east and west all the way, both spectacular coastal and hinterland country is revealed. It enables to discover so much more of Australia, and allows for stays in less heavily-populated regions. The Gwydir Highway journey offers one such fabulous caravanning experience.

CLARENCE REGION

The Clarence region has something for everyone. The mild winters and long, warm summer days, certainly make it a favour of ours. The hospitality industry is alive and well, boasting a wonderful range of services and attractions, cafes, retail outlets and activities, all year round. The natural environment also has plenty to offer, with Yuraygir and Bundjalung National Parks and Iluka Nature Reserve nearby.

Yamba, a part of the Clarence Region, has five lovely beaches – including iconic Angourie beach, where long surfside walks iron out the worst car-seat wrinkles. If you love to throw in a line, rest awhile on one of Yamba’s jetties, or fish off the rocks at Yamba Point. This little port is well known for its oysters and prawns, so visit the local fishmongers to glam up your plate at tucker time. If you love freshwater fishing, Yamba’s got that covered too, with the Clarence River flowing past your door. If deep sea fishing is your scene, climb aboard one of the local charter vessels and head out to the shelf for some serious fun.

For those lugging surfboards around, the legendary breaks of Angourie Surfing Reserve are found off Yamba southern beaches. This is a sacred destination for Aussie surfers, who never know when they might catch a point-break with local legend, Nat Young. If you carry a kayak on the roof, be prepared to untie it – the paddling around Yamba’s waterways is superb.

Unlike its southern beachfront neighbour, Iluka is positioned to overlook the Clarence River, and is beautifully sheltered from ocean winds by the southern reaches of Iluka Nature Reserve. This park is a wonderful place to explore and unwind, to experience wildlife and birdsong, surrounded by a unique World Heritage-listed rainforest ecosystem. Iluka’s Esk River, guarded by its voluptuous Sentinel sculpture, also provides pleasant paddling.

Both Iluka and Yamba boast an excellent range of tourist parks and campgrounds, perfect for an exploration of the coast before your trip up the Gwydir Highway, to Celtic Country. Our favourite place to stay is Yamba’s Fishing Haven – a small park nestled between the mighty Clarence River and sugar cane fields, a few kilometres out of town. Fishing Haven has recently been revitalised by new, young owners, who have created a lovely atmosphere in a prime location.

When it’s time to head to Grafton for your trek up the Gibraltar, take the secondary roads, to avoid the Pacific Highway mayhem. They are perfectly suitable for RVs, and they make the 60km drive a scenic and relaxing tour.

On the way, take time drop into the little towns and hamlets of Maclean, Ashby, Lawrence, Ulmarra and Brushgrove. There’s so much to enjoy! Climb hills to fabulous lookouts, wander through community markets, go fishing, visit artisan galleries and antique stores, or relax on classic country pub verandas, sampling fresh local seafood. Rolling green hills beyond the river provide a beautiful backdrop for nature photography, and give a lovely texture to the rural atmosphere.

Grafton is definitely one of Australia’s most beautiful provincial cities, famous for its magnificent Jacaranda-lined streets. With more than twenty parks and gardens, and over 6,500 planted trees, there is no shortage of shade or botanic beauty.

Grafton’s week-long Jacaranda Festival in late October celebrates the glorious display of lilac blossomed trees in high spirits. The streets are transformed into corridors of purple, beneath which bustles a hive of activity and culture. Festival events include the crowning of the Jacaranda Queen, a ball, exhibitions, open gardens, markets, fairs, fashion parades, a vintage car rally, a street parade, races, a rodeo, music, dance, food, wine and fireworks. This is a marvellous festival!

There are many wonderful day trips from Grafton, to spectacular Clarence Gorge or the various national parks which surround the little city. Otherwise, a great day can be spent cruising the streets, visiting fabulous gardens, historical buildings and the city’s retail hub. Grafton’s weekly Thursday market’s ‘Make It, Bake It or Grow It’ theme ensures the bountiful local goodies offered are fresh.

GWYDIR HIGHWAY

The Gwydir Highway’s climb up the Gibraltar Range is an awe inspiring experience. Initially undulating, the road passes through beautiful rural countryside in the foothills of the mountain, which support a thriving beef industry. At Jackadgery Bridge there’s a lovely rest area overlooking the river with gorgeous scenery all around – a perfect spot to stop for a break. Just over the bridge is the Mann River Caravan Park with big sites, fuel and a cafe.

After Jackadgery, the highway follows the river for a while before the gradient changes. You’ll need to engage low gear, because it’s one mother of a climb! As the switchbacks disappear behind you, the views just get better and better. There are several pull-off points – not well signposted, but safe enough to dive into at the speeds you’ll be travelling – to allow full appreciation of the stunning vistas. You won’t need binoculars to see the ocean but they will come in handy to scrutinise the sharp folds of rainforest valleys, with eagles soaring above the dramatic ridges.

At the top of the mountain, there is a veritable jamboree of national parks! The magnificent Gibraltar Range National Park sits in a prime location on both sides of the highway, and barely a stones’ throw away are magnificent Washpool, Nymboida and Barbol reserves. A visit to Raspberry Lookout is a must! The lookout access road is sealed and in good nick, but it is narrow, so if you meet another rig, you’ll have to breathe in! The absolutely stunning views are nothing short of spectacular. There’s a decent turning circle, picnic tables and a loo, so stay awhile, and contemplate this incredible place.

Dedicated bushwalkers will know that atop this range, one of Australia’s best treks awaits; the three-day, 45km Gibraltar-Washpool World Heritage Walk, or, if that’s a little over the top for your fitness levels, there are excellent alternatives ranging from 500m to 19km.

GLEN INNES

Glen Innes is the heart of Australian Celtic Country, thanks to its significant Celtic ancestry. This is best uncovered through a visit to the Land of the Beardies History House folk museum. Here, Glen Innes’ past comes alive with collections that celebrate the history and development of the region, with items relating to everyday living, farming, business, industry, schools and the church.

In 1988, Glen Innes visionaries instigated a project to construct a circle of standing stones on a hill above the town, as a national monument to Australia’s Celtic pioneers. The towering stones, averaging a massive 17 tonnes, were carefully laid out to reflect the twelve hours of the clock, with compass points keying into the solstices. It was a mammoth task, and the result is simply splendid! The Australian Standing Stones are now an enormous tourist attraction for Glen Innes, since it really is an inspiring experience to walk amongst them.

Glen Innes’ magnificent Standing Stones are not the only rocks attracting visitors to the high country. Many head to Celtic Country to go fossicking, mindful of its status as the world’s richest mineral diversity belt. Although renowned for its prolific royal blue sapphires, there are also emeralds, aquamarines, topaz and zircons to be found. Fossicking is great outdoor fun yet requires little equipment or knowledge – and the lure of finding that special stone to fund your travels for the next twenty years becomes addictive. There are no less than nine fossicking sites listed on the region’s official tourism website, ranging from free public reserves to private holiday farms, offering everything from sites to sapphires.

Celtic Country has a huge fan club of fishers, because of its outstanding reputation for Murray cod catches. There are also plenty of silver perch, trout and yellow belly ready to leap from the pristine waters of the northern New England high country onto your BBQ. Popular angling access points near Glen Innes include Beardy Waters, Furracabad and Wellingrove creeks, and the Upper Severn. Streams around Ben Lomond, Deepwater and Emmaville also offer superb fishing, with both public access and fishing retreat farm stays.

The combination of sea and stones on this fabulous hinterland touring route makes for an incredibly diverse and interesting adventure. The beautiful scenery, towns, people and attractions absolutely encapsulate what Australia offers – and why we love being on the road.