A STEP BACK IN TIME

Look behind the cellar door to discover the rich and interesting history of Clare Valley

WORDS BY LORRAINE HOLLOWAY, PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN & LORRAINE HOLLOWAY & SATC

Far from the town of Balaklava in South Australia, tucked away in valleys and across the plains, are little-known villages full of history. For example, many people do not know that right here in Balaklava, a 12 year old Alfred Traeger created his own telephone transmitter-receiver from odds and ends he found around the family farm. The telephone ran from a shed in the paddock to the farmhouse – this was quite an achievement for 1907! As Alfred’s interest in electronics increased, he attracted the attention of John Flynn – aka Flynn of the Inland, and the two worked together to develop a radio to connect people of the outback to a central station. It surprised me that such an important part of history was so unrecognised. This was enough to pique my interest and I decided to explore the other little villages in the surrounding areas. The south, west and north of Balaklava are predominately grain and wine producing, most of the villages hold a veritable treasure chest, waiting to be discovered.

Leaving Balaklava and travelling along back roads via Whitwarta takes you to Snowtown, approximately 50km to the north. These days Snowtown is a lovely, quiet place. Like many of the nearby villages you will find a mix of historic public buildings and local business houses – including a café, supermarket, a hotel and a beaut little campground called Centenary Park. However, Snowtown also holds some dark secrets. In 1999, the gruesome discovery of the barrel bodies, hidden in a disused bank vault, shot Snowtown into the spotlight and cast a dark shadow of intrigue over an otherwise welcoming and friendly town.

Continue 17km south from Snowtown via Highway 1 to Lochiel, where you can see the town’s very own Lochiel Monster, known as the Loch Eel! Created as a joke, this artistic sculpture of old car tyres and plastic has been in the Bumbunga Lake since the 1960s. During the 1970s and 1980s a British immigrant, Alex Brackstone, founded The Province of Bumbunga – located near Lochiel. So alarmed, was Alex, at the dismissal of Prime Minister Gough Whitlam, that he declared his four hectare property independent of Australia. In an attempt to attract tourism, Brackstone built a huge scale model of Great Britain out of strawberry plants. His intent to conduct weddings on his property floundered after many of his strawberry plants died during a drought, after which he returned permanently to the UK. Aside from the site of the failed Province of Bumbunga, Lochiel also offers the Lakeview Hotel. At The Lakeview Hotel you’ll find cold beer and an unsurpassed view of Bumbunga Lake.

The service town of Port Wakefield, approximately 31km further south, seems to most travellers as a couple of roadhouses and bakeries. However, when looking behind the string of services, you will find an attractive historical stone settlement with over 30 heritage sites. Including; eateries, craft shops and galleries. It was in Port Wakefield that Jack Brabham won his first grand prix in 1955. The motor racing facility, purpose built after World War II, is now abandoned. Port Wakefield also has a tidal swimming pool, located in a pleasant and safe salt water swimming area. Rumour has it that Australian Olympian Dawn Fraser swam there – perhaps there’s something in the water. Set up and relax beside the flowing Wakefield River, at the Port Wakefield Caravan Park – situated right on the river’s edge. The park also features a footbridge across the pool, picnic area and cold showers. Look out for the historic town walk brochure, found in a number of historical buildings throughout the town.

Located 35km south of Balaklava is Mallala. Primarily as a farming community, Mallala is better known as the Home of Motor Sport. This venue, built in 1961 on the site of a WWII air force base to replace the Port Wakefield Circuit, plays host to a number of national and international motoring events. Aside from being the home of motor sport, something rather unusual lies in the heart of Mallala – an eight lane traffic intersection, the only one in the Southern Hemisphere. Dating back to the mid 1800s, the meeting point of eight bitumen roads was where bullock trains from outlying rural areas often met. The town just grew around the intersection to serve the passing traffic. For those who enjoy a freedom camp, there’s Mallala Oval Rest Area. Located at the recreation reserve, it has toilets and hot showers.

Freeling, for all the McLeod’s Daughters fans, is only a 25 minute drive from Mallala. This village featured in the eight year long series as the town of Gungullen. Many of the streets and buildings were used for filming, most memorable being the Gungullen Hotel, formerly the Railway Hotel, and the Gungullen Truck Stop. Both remain with their signage today. Pop into the hotel for a coldie or an honest, down to earth meal and chat with the publican, who is happy to answer questions from fans of the series or sell you souvenirs. This is a pretty village and many of the homes had beautiful gardens, blooming with roses and jacarandas during our visit.

Continue along the Thiele highway – named for the author Colin Thiele – and you will find yourself in Kapunda. Sir Sidney Kidman, once Australia’s largest landholder, made Kapunda home for more than 40 years. Kidman was married to a local school teacher, so it makes sense that their home was donated to the town in 1921 and is now the administration block for the local high school. Visitors are welcome to view the building and take a self-guided tour. Many of the houses and cottages on the Kidman Trail reflect the time when Kidman lived locally. Kapunda is also Australia’s oldest mining town and as such is rich with history and heritage.

Another 20 minutes to the north east is Riverton, where the Archibald Prize entrant Robert Hannaford, has his gallery. Born in Riverton, Robert grew up in the area, and now hosts the Riverton Light Gallery in the main street. Robert is frequently on sight at the gallery. While you are in town you should check out Scholz Park Museum, where you will find an historic working blacksmith and wheelwright shop. Here, volunteers will show you around the restored cottage of August Scholz and his family, before taking you to the out buildings where the blacksmiths and wheelwrights plied their wares. Working blacksmith displays operate on the last Sunday of each month. Through the generosity and cooperation of the Riverton local residents, there are a number of walking trails in and around Riverton, with loops from 1km to 28km, including part of the Mawson Trail – linking you to the Riesling Trail at Auburn.

The tiny State Heritage listed village of Mintaro, 35 minutes north of Riverton is a must see. Here you can stroll the streets to discover stone churches and well maintained blue stone homes, many with beautiful and colourful cottage gardens. The antique shop in Burra Street was the home of C.J. Dennis for most of his childhood. Den, as he preferred to be called, is the well-known author of children’s books and poems, especially the poem, ‘Triantiwontigongolope’. Also in the area is the opulent Georgian Martindale Hall, built in 1879 by 21 year old Edmund Bowman Jnr. This extraordinarily beautiful building was used for scenes in the 1975 Peter Weir film, Picnic at Hanging Rock. The mansion is open to the public and guests can stay overnight to enjoy the many antique fittings, most of which were left in the home when it was handed over to the National Trust. While in Mintaro, wander through the cemetery at the Church of Immaculate Conception, the oldest Jesuit church in Australia. You can also visit the Mintaro Maze, a unique experience for young and old. A booklet is available from shops in town for $2 giving the full history of Mintaro, dating back to the 1840s, and includes an interesting heritage trail. The 40 minute return drive to Balaklava, via Auburn takes you through some stunning scenery, featuring many of the vineyards of the Clare Valley.

As you can see, there is more to the Mid North and Clare Valley than just the wine tours. Step off the beaten tourist track and take time out to visit some villages and hamlets and see how much history you can unfold.