A SECRET PLACE - COFFIN BAY
A town hidden by distance, Coffin Bay is a tranquil seaside escape with friendly locals and plenty of fishing
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NOEL SMART
The little town of Coffin Bay snuggles in on the shores of Kellidie Bay. A 2006 census declared the population at around 600, but during the summer months it reaches 2000. It’s a convenient half hour, on an excellent road, from Port Lincoln. Coffin Bay is the perfect town for caravanners seeking a peaceful getaway with excellent fishing and friendly townsfolk.
Nobody died to make it famous as the name might suggest. The huge bay was originally named Coffin’s Bay in 1802 by Matthew Flinders to honour his friend, Sir Isaac Coffin, a Naval Commissioner at Sheerness. Later in the same year, French explorers also gave the area a name. Point Sir Isaac Coffin is the southern headland where Coffin Bay meets the ocean.
A TOWN CALLED FRIENDLY
Upon settling into Coffin Bay Caravan Park, we were charmed by not only the beauty of the town, but of the people within. For example, after having a yarn with Mark and Sue Cummins, our new neighbours, we were drawn into regular happy hours around Mark’s re pot, and the numbers attending grew rapidly. John and Junita Whittaker were also regulars, and at the time travelling with Mark and Sue. The nights were not yet cold and up to twenty people usually sat out until after dark. Then Sharon and Andrew, the owners of Coffin Bay Caravan Park, built a seriously big, new re pit and we were asked to christen it. With their ladies, they joined us for the inauguration. is is just one of many wonderful instances that proved to us, Coffin Bay is a great place for caravanners.
To while away their days, most people in Coffin Bay fish. South Australia’s famed King George whiting and many other species are prevalent. Those who like salmon trout, and the Tommy Roughs, which are an Australian herring, can have fresh fish on call. A boat is a great asset, but we caught lots from the mostly limestone shoreline. Dangerous seas are rare this far inside Coffin Bay, so fishing from the low rocks is quite safe. Boats can be hired for the sheltered waters, and the more adventurous can take an off shore Tuna fishing charter.
The number of oyster leases was surprising. Thinking the waters may have been too cold was way off beat. Pacific oysters, the most common, are grown
in thousands, and it didn’t take long to learn they were big, fat, juicy, and about
as good as oysters can get. Having already consumed a couple dozen, we mentioned to Liam at the store and bottle shop while there to buy more, that we’d love to have a few of images from inside his shop for our magazine. Not only was he willing to help, he took us to his workbench and showed how quickly he shucked a dozen for sale. This attitude seemed normal in Coffin Bay. Handing over $13.00 to pay for them, he presented them to the Boss lady with his compliments. How lucky can you be? She doesn’t eat oysters, but guess who does.
Another day we called at Steven and Tilly Dew’s ‘Beachcomber’, where you can sit down for a sumptuous lunch; get a take-away; or buy fuel, bait, and lots of other stuff. Extremely busy, they were still happy to help with some pics while serving their many clients. This willingness to help was typical of the friendliness of the town toward their traveller visitors. We all know it doesn’t happen everywhere.
NATURAL ATTRACTIONS
It’s a short drive to the Coffin Bay National Park out on the headland. What a magnificent place to spend some time, and it starts at the attractive entrance where you pay your few pieces of silver for the right to be there. The small ‘per vehicle’ fee was well justified. We drove through both farm and bushland on a well-made road. The backdrop of massive sand dunes glowed almost white in the sunshine that day. We followed a path from the car to the beach. On the way we saw tracks where kangaroos and an emu had passed the same way, and soon looked down on Almonta Beach, a place that would make most surf fishos tremble. It’s long; the sand is hard and clean, and the waves roll in without a break. During our visit the tide was low and the surf was fairly tame, but some holes and gutters still showed lots of promise. Golden Island, and the remains of where it was once attached to the mainland, creates a colourful photo subject, and helps break the big Southern Ocean swells rolling onto Avoid Bay beach.
Arriving back into town we called at ‘1802’ an oyster bar and bistro with a fabulous décor, that seemed continually busy; a sure sign of good food and
good service; for a snack and coffee. Owner Ella and staff; Megan, Merja, and Blake happily assisted with some shots; when they stopped laughing that was. It seemed a happy place to work. It surprised us, and I’m sure others too, to drive around the town and see so many emus walking the streets. They are quite accustomed to vehicles, ignoring them as they fed on garden trees and plants.
FURTHER AFIELD
Almost everyone visits Port Lincoln from here. Only 46km from Coffin
Bay; to those who have wandered Australia, it barely qualifies as ‘just
down the road’. This bustling town of 14,000, with its beachfront shopping, is home to Australia’s largest fishing fleet. These serious blue water vessels have
tall spotting towers; and chase big tuna across the Southern Ocean. Boaties can spend a lot of time wandering the wharf area, admiring these powerful and rugged vessels. There is an abundance of places for a coffee and cake, and no shortage of good restaurants either. Most offer views of one of the largest and naturally sheltered harbours in the world.
You can’t help being impressed by the massive ‘Frontera’ grain loading facility that stretches out across the water, and beside the main jetty is a large enclosed swimming area that would see a lot of use in warmer weather. Many KG whiting are caught from the sand beside the main street, fascinating non- fishing people as they take a caffeine- x on board. We heard a tackle shop guy telling a client; “If you want to learn what to do, walk across the road and watch; there’s about twenty blokes catching sh right now”.
Cage diving with great white sharks is for those wanting their cardiac specialist to have her own heart attack. I’m sure the cage is an important accessory. Expensive; yes, but it has a big following. Diving with Sea Lions was also popular, and an off-shore charter to Sir Joseph Banks Island Group will guarantee you a feed of KG whiting.
Our stay in the park by the water at Port Lincoln before heading back to Coffin Bay was pleasant. They have two private jetties from where it’s pretty easy to take home a fish for dinner, or perhaps some of the abundant squid. Most fishos know about SA’s squid. You don’t need fancy gear, and they’re easy for beginners (and kids) to catch.
BACK TO COFFIN BAY
Coming back to Coffin Bay and before we set off for our next destination, we did a short tour with local oyster farmer Ben Catteral, from 1802 oyster bar. He waded to his armpits to collect some. Opened, swished in seawater and down the hatch – they don’t come fresher. We tried the Pacific and native varieties. The Pacific won hands down. The story behind Coffin Bay oysters is good reading, but a bit long. The original species was almost lost due to reckless farming. Some are now grown, but will never match the Pacific shells. Pacific oysters are there to stay. We thought perhaps these oysters seemed so much better because they live and grow in pure seawater, not estuarine that is often mixed with fresh river water. There are no major rivers on the Eyre, unlike the east coast.
Australia is a big place. All towns have plusses and minuses. Coffin Bay does too. It involves distances, but that usually means smaller crowds. The weather can be windy and cloudy, but the waters are sheltered. Overnight temperatures are above most Australian averages; daytime temperatures, rainfall and the number of clear days can be slightly lower. Summer maximums are around
22°C with minimums of 16°C, while winter maximums are about 16°C and minimums a tolerable 12°C, so Coffin Bay can be moderately cool. Pack your jumper and long pants in case.
FINAL WORDS
Caravan park people are renowned for their social friendliness, but those in Coffin Bay excelled. Having now stayed in close to 400 parks, it rates among the best of them. Of course we’ll try and go back one day, and for a longer stay. Though hidden by distance, it’s not to be ignored, and there are lots of other towns to visit on the shores of Eyre Peninsula.
