A KING’S LIFE

The Red Centre’s deepest and most spectacular gorge shines like an exquisite crown jewel

WORDS BY KARYN FANOUS, PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSEPH AND KARYN FANOUS

As  we struck by the majestic Kings Canyon we stand gazing at its enormous, sheer south wall. It appears to have been sliced cleanly by some gigantic knife in the distant past. Painted by nature in rich ochre colours and draped in splendour, the canyon stands regally atop the harsh desert landscape.

We had only vaguely heard of Kings Canyon prior to our first visit, but as we were passing nearby, we thought we should drop in. We’re sure glad we did! While very different to Uluru and Kata Tjuta, for us, Kings Canyon is equally impressive.

Caravanners will love visiting Kings Canyon and its surrounding regions, as it has all the factors a traveller looks for – stunning natural attractions, plentiful walks, Australiana and the opportunity to camp beside a beautiful river at Redbank Waterhole.

INCREDIBLE CANYON WALKS

Kings Canyon was formed by Kings Creek flowing from the western end of the George Gill Range. The sandstone of the range was laid down 440 million years ago. In 1872, the European explorer, Ernest Giles, travelled nearby while looking for pastoral lands, but unfortunately didn’t see the canyon itself. He named the range after his brother-in-law, George Gill, and Kings Creek in honour of a benefactor, Fieldon King. The canyon was virtually unknown until the 1960’s when it was discovered by locals, although the area had been home to the Luritja Aboriginal people for 20,000 years.

Watarrka National Park, named after the local acacia trees, protects Kings Canyon and the western end of the George Gill Range. The area can be explored via a number of walks of varying length and difficulty. The most popular is The Rim Walk, a slightly difficult walk that covers a six kilometre loop and takes about three or four hours. As its name suggests, it is along the rim of the canyon where much of the best scenery can be viewed.

The beginning of the walk starts with a steep ascent up around 500 steps – we counted them all – this is the most difficult part of the walk. Once up on top of the plateau, the trail passes through a maze of sandstone domes known as the Lost City. Ancient dunes compressed and cemented into rock have been eroded by wind and water along vertical cracks in grid-like patterns over time. Initially blocks were formed which were then rounded into beehive shaped domes, appearing to be ruins of a lost civilization. According to the Luritja people, “the domes are the young kuninga men who travelled through here during the Tjukurpa, or Dreamtime”.

As you emerge from the Lost City, the first stunning views of the canyon from the rim become apparent. Plunging 270m into the gorge below, its magnitude is incredibly impressive. The amazingly smooth, vertical south wall was created when giant slabs of rock broke off evenly along vertical joint lines. It’s absolutely breathtaking!

Cotterills Lookout, right near the top of the canyon on the northern side, provides exceptional views. The deep ochre-coloured sandstone vividly reminds visitors that Kings Canyon is part of Australia’s iconic Red Centre.

The north and south walls curve in to meet each other and form the head of the canyon. A waterfall flows from a crevice here after rain. Hidden high in the wall behind the head of the canyon is The Garden of Eden, an ancient garden of tall river red gums, wattles, fig trees and ferns adorning a chain of deep pools. Cycad plants, harking back to the days of the dinosaurs, create a prehistoric atmosphere. Stairs lead down into this literal oasis.

This permanent source of water is created by water seeping from the sandstone above, as the porous rock gradually releases the large quantities of rain it has soaked up. The result is a haven for birds, aquatic wildlife, and ancient relic plants once common when central Australia was wetter. For us, it was also a lovely lunch stop.

Back up to the plateau to cross the stream feeding into the Garden of Eden and onto the southern side for a splendid view of the sculptured North Wall and the head of the gorge. An absolutely picture-perfect view! Then a gradual descent past interesting vegetation and pleasant valley views before returning to the carpark to complete this iconic walk.

Another shorter option is the South Wall Return Walk, moderate to hard walk that runs for 4.8 km and takes about two hours return. This begins with what is usually the descent of the Rim Walk, and tracks up onto the south wall of the canyon. From here you can see down into the Garden of Eden. A oneway gate means that the Garden of Eden and the rest of the Rim Walk cannot be accessed from this walk which then returns to the carpark via the same route.

An easier alternative is the Kings Creek Walk, it goes for approximately 2km and will take about an hour. This gently sloped track meanders along Kings Creek which runs along the base of the canyon. Ending at a viewing platform, there are stunning views of the sheer canyon walls as they reach skywards. Aboriginal culture is explained by information signs along the way.

The Kings Canyon Sunset Viewing and Picnic Area is a beaut stop for a break and is equipped with barbeques, toilets, water and picnic tables.

In the south-east of the park, the Kathleen Springs Walk is great for those who want to stroll or require wheelchair access. Along the track information signs explain the local Aboriginal culture and recent cattle industry. The walk leads to the head of Kathleen Gorge with its enticing spring-fed waterhole. A picnic area with barbeques, water, toilets and picnic tables is provided near the carpark.

REST A WHILE

Back to our camp at Kings Creek Station, located at the base of George Gill Range and about 36km from Kings Canyon. This 2,000 square kilometre working cattle and camel station is Australia’s largest exporter of wild camels. The station was established in the early 1980s by Ian and Lyn Conway. Ian’s grandfather, William Liddle, was the Kings Canyon region’s first permanent pastoralist in 1907.

We were fortunate to be offered the last powered site and set up camp in the intensely red sand amongst desert oaks. Powered and unpowered sites are available, along with basic supplies and fuel. There’s also a swimming pool and café to enjoy. An easy walk to the George Gill Lookout provides splendid views. The station has a number of adventurous activities for guests including camel rides, quad bike tours of the station, and helicopter flights over the canyon and surrounds.

The café served us up delicious Kings Creek Camel Burgers for dinner which we can highly recommend! Back at camp, we finished the day around our campfire under a million stars.

An alternative camping option is Kings Canyon Resort just seven kilometres from the canyon. The campground is set among the resort with its restaurants, bar, general store, souvenir shop, petrol station and swimming pool. There’s a viewing platform from which to enjoy the spectacle at sunset as the range is set aglow.

A feature of the resort is its unique outback dining experience, ‘Under a Desert Moon’. Individual tables are set around a camp fire, surrounded by desert oak trees under the night sky.

Also on offer at the resort is a one hour Aboriginal Cultural Tour with spear and boomerang displays, the opportunity to learn about bush tucker, bush medicine, and local languages. Local arts and craft are available for purchase.

BOUND FOR ALICE

Heading south-east along Luritja Road, en-route to Alice Springs, we were delighted to see a flock of bright green budgies, wedge tailed eagles and a herd of wild camels along the way. As we turned east onto Lasseter Highway we were surprised to see a “Laundry Tree” at the intersection, decorated with donated clothing!

Mount Ebenezer Road House makes an interesting fuel and rest stop along the Lasseter Highway. Aboriginal artists from the local Imanpa community paint in the art studio on weekdays, relaying stories from their Tjukurpa (dreaming). Their western desert ‘dot’ style paintings are then hung in the gallery for sale along with works from other communities, wooden carvings, and jewellery.

Turning the rig north at Erldunda, the Stuart Highway leads to Alice Springs. A highlight of our stay here was the Alice Springs Desert Park, with its spectacular backdrop of the MacDonnell Ranges. The park presents three recreated desert habitats – Desert Rivers, Sand Country, and Woodlands, allowing visitors to explore the plants, animals and people of arid Australia. A big screen movie covers desert evolution, and the cultural presentation “Survival in the Desert” explores the world’s oldest living culture.

We wandered through the habitats listening to our individual audio guides. There are many beautiful birds to see in the River Red Gum trees of the Desert Rivers habitat. Sand Country is dominated by spinifex, legless lizards, thorny devils and giant mound-building termites. Woodland is home to witchery grubs, emus and red kangaroos.

The guided tour in the Nocturnal house took us into the world of animals of the night. It was wonderful to see thorny devils, spinifex hopping mice, ghost bats, knobbed tailed geckos, and bilbies. A thrill for us was the fabulous Eagle Encounter – Birds of Prey Free Flight Show in the Nature Theatre. The birds surprisingly flew in to be fed right on the ranger’s cue!

Our day ended at the top of Anzac Hill, otherwise known as Untyeyetwely, for a great view over Alice and the MacDonnell Ranges, as the sun splashed warm hues across the outback sky. The grandeur of this country is a right, royal treat!